Is Coober Pedy's Underground Cafe and Restaurant the happiest place under the earth?

DON'T bother asking for a window seat when you book a table at Coober Pedy's Underground Cafe and Restaurant. There are none.

Underground Cafe and Restaurant in Coober Pedy

DON'T bother asking for a window seat when you book a table at Coober Pedy's Underground Cafe and Restaurant. There are none.

What it lacks in views, however, the licensed venue makes up for in atmosphere.

According to owner George Koutsoumbos, 48, the key ingredient is service with a smile.

"We do three-dimensional service and we don't want to be 5-star," he said.

"We like to hear where you're from, what type of life you've had and what you want to eat. We don't like plastic service."

It's true. When the chef recently failed to show up to serve the full-to-capacity restaurant Mr Koutsoumbos took the reins, serving over 72 meals to hungry visitors.

"I ask customers if they want a Telstra table or an Optus table," he laughed between meals. "Some tables get reception down here, some don't."

Even rising electricity bills are fair game. "If you want a T-bone steak done rare it's $28, if you want it well done it's $48!" he said.

Mr Koutsoumbos and wife Vicki formerly ran Coober Pedy's Ampol Roadhouse restaurant and opened their new underground nosh spot 12 months ago.

The sandstone space was formerly a mine, a jeweller's house and bed and breakfast accommodation.

"You've got to be lost to find us,'' said Mr Koutsoumbos. "I'd call it Coober Pedy's hidden secret. Like that place you find down those hidden alleys in Melbourne."

The business owner insists that quality staff is important. "I usually hold on to my staff well," he said.

"Locally it's a bit difficult because local staff say 'I don't want to serve that person because they ran into my car and didn't pay repairs' or 'my boyfriend ran off with her daughter'. We get a lot of that happening here - everyone knows everyone."

Instead, Mr Koutsoumbos says transient travellers, like Dutch visitors Yvonne Van Schendel, 26, and Saskia Strubbe, 25, are a perfect fit.

"I'd never heard of Coober Pedy before and when I arrived thought 'what is this? There's nothing here," Miss Van Schendel said. "But then I realised that everything is underground and was very surprised. It's special, it's unique  ... that was our first impression."

"It's a fun place to work," Miss Strubbe said. "You can't party but for a few months that's OK - at least we don't spend any money!"

The pals from the Netherlands plan to drive the 846km to Adelaide when they've built up their savings.

The couple eventually plan to add a children's play room to the restaurant.

"I don't want a PlayStation room,'' Mr Koutsoumbos said. "I want a room where kids can play with rocks and learn to cut opals rather than distracting their parents.''