Alchemy restaurant offers a magical culinary experience with fabulous river views

ALCHEMY celebrates its 13th birthday in the Brisbane CBD in January and has just published an entirely new menu. I’ve dined there twice recently and have to say the food was flawlessly rendered, beautifully presented and well-balanced

Alchemy restaurant on the Brisbane River

When our lovely, warm bread rolls arrived, my companion was a little miffed that I got butter and he didn’t. So he summoned a waiter with a sweeping arm action that ­reminded me of a fast bowler. All had gone smoothly until that point. When the waiter approached our table to deliver the missing butter, he put his hand on my friend’s shoulder. Rather firmly, he said. And he left it there a little too long. My mate didn’t like it one little bit. He felt his personal space had been invaded.

Such indiscretions show waiters are often ignorant of the protocols. Rule number one: Don’t touch the customers. Rule number two: Don’t regale diners with your personal stories. They don’t care. They do not want to be your best friend.

I’m happy to say Alchemy is a fine ­restaurant and that that was the only blemish in an otherwise faultless performance.

Honey-infused panna cotta with spiced mango, pomegranate and basil ­sorbet

Kingfish and garlic prawn main course

I calmed my friend with a glass of 2005 Kanta Riesling by Egon Müller ($16). The smile returned to his face as he got a rush of aromas of preserved lemon, spice and apple before tasting the steely citrus flavours. Müller is a noted German riesling producer who made the Kanta (the word means “the beloved” or “divine” in Sanskrit) in collaboration with Adelaide Hills winemaker ­Michael Andrewartha. Pleasingly, Alchemy has 25 wines by the glass from France, New Zealand and Australia.

The restaurant celebrates its 13th birthday in the Brisbane CBD in January and has just published an entirely new menu. I’ve dined there twice recently and have to say the food was flawlessly rendered, beautifully presented and well-balanced. A lobster ravioli entree ($28) with saffron cream and bisque foam was a pure joy. My friend began with spiced quail ($29) with a hint of chilli and coriander, and a puddle of black garlic mayonnaise. Equally succulent, he said, was his main course of corn-fed chicken ($49) with sauteed Swiss brown mushrooms in a porcini jus.

Alchemy excels in the small things as well. I had a perfectly agreeable amuse bouche of porcini and pumpkin soup, a beef croquette with just the right whack of horseradish, and a dinky bowl of sauteed olives with rosemary salt. The food has French and sometimes Italian influences, probably because chef and proprietor Brad Jolly spent time in Europe working alongside Michelin mavens such as Marco Pierre White, Eric Chavot and Jamie Oliver.

A kingfish and garlic prawn main course ($48) was another show-off dish from a competent kitchen. It came with creamed silverbeet and a red-wine sauce that was oddly simpatico with the meaty fish. With food of this quality you want gaps between courses to stimulate the appetite. A sorbet of peach and blood orange with lemon balm helped refresh the palate.

We elected to sit outside by the river to avoid a rather boisterous gaggle of ­financial advisers inside. I also devoured a honey-infused panna cotta ($18) with spiced mango, pomegranate and basil ­sorbet. It wobbled indecently as it was put down on the table, just as a good panna cotta should.

Alchemy

175 Eagle St

Brisbane

alchemyrestaurant.com.au

BOOK

Ph [phone]

OPEN

Lunch Mon-Fri noon-3pm; dinner Mon-Sat 6-10pm

SCORE OUT OF 10

Food 8

Ambience 8

Service 4

VERDICT

Works its magic

Originally published as Alchemy restaurant offers a magical culinary experience with fabulous river views