Sydney chef who can’t taste is killing it in the kitchen

A chef who lost her tastebuds to chemotherapy is still running her own restaurant and even made it to the grand final of a national cooking competition.

When chef Naomi Lowry walked into the kitchen one day and couldn’t taste anything, she was devastated but she didn’t freak out.

The 38-year-old had been warned that she might lose her tastebuds as a side effect of chemotherapy and she was prepared.

“I was really, really happy that I read (Alinea chef) Grant Achatz’s book Life, on the Line. He had tongue cancer and described not being able to taste, so when it did happen to me, my brain instantly referenced that,” she said.

“It was still horrible. I literally did exactly what he did, I went from different dish to different dish, from sweet to sour to salty just seeing if I could taste something.”

Chef Naomi Lowry isn’t letting chemo get her down, she’s still running the kitchen at her restaurant Culina et Vinum. Picture: Justin Lloyd.

Ms Lowry, who has worked at fine diners including Pilu, Ormeggio and Biota, was diagnosed with breast cancer on February 16, just three months after opening her own restaurant, Culina et Vinum in Elizabeth Bay.

Not working wasn’t an option, but she has had to change the way she worked, cutting her 90 hour week in half and enlisting staff to be her tastebuds.

Pea risotto with spanner crab, seaweed and chives at Culina et Vinum, Elizabeth Bay.

This is my love, this is my life, it’s not just a job to me. I’ve been doing it professionally for 20 years, unprofessionally since I could reach the stovetop between mum and grandma,” she said.

“I rely a lot on memory, you can still remember tastes. I can have the idea but when it comes to finishing the product, that’s harder.

“I wanted to do a dry aged beef ragu. I can do my mirepoix, I can add the red wine but my staff has to get the salt and pepper out. I can’t taste that saltiness anymore.”

Chef Nicky Shen is filling in as Naomi Lowry’s tastebuds. The owner of Culina et Vinum has lost her sense of taste due to chemotherapy. Picture: Justin Lloyd.

Chef de partie, Nicky Shen, 32, is on tasting duties — a kitchen equivalent of a guide dog — until Ms Lowry’s tastebuds come back after her last chemotherapy session on July 9.

“When it comes to the execution of a dish, we all take part in it and work really well as a team,” Ms Shen said.

Grandma’s Scones, ricotta and mascarpone pudding and strawberries from Culina et Vinum. One of the dishes inspired by Naomi’s grandmother. Supplied.

In June, Ms Lowry competed in the Foodservice Chef of the Year competition, placing fourth out of 200 national entrants.

“It was to show one day you can be at chemo and the next day you can be runner up in chef of the year,” she said.

“Chefs don’t get knocked down, even if it is by cancer, because we are a pretty tough breed.”

Originally published as Sydney chef who can’t taste is killing it in the kitchen