Parea in Kogarah, NSW

I'M NOT sure doctors have officially diagnosed a meat coma before, but I'm having one after attempting to finish Parea's abundant $60 mixed platter for two.

taste syd review

I'M NOT sure doctors have officially diagnosed a meat coma before, but I'm having one after attempting to finish Parea's abundant $60 mixed platter for two.

Two what? This thing is so huge it could keep a pride of lions sated.

This big brown mound of grilled meat, sprinkled with parsley, with two lemon wedges tossed on top, is no beauty pageant contestant but most carnivores would think it's the sexiest thing they've laid eyes on.

A large oval, silver platter was piled high with pork and chicken souvlaki, spit-roasted lamb, loukaniko (orange-flavoured Greek sausage) and sheftalies (a dark cinnamon-spicy sausage that's the Cypriot souvlaki). Crammed on were chips and fried pita bread.

The menu says Greek salad is part of the deal, too, but nothing like that showed up not that we really cared, since it would only waste space reserved for the meat. Besides, a small tabouli, $8, was ordered to give the appearance of respectability.

I can tell you the meats were juicy and smoky from the grill, occasionally chewy and the flavours bold. However, our testament to just how good it all tasted was the fact that we kept eating it long after feeling full. Then fuller. Then ready to burst. And still we kept picking. Groan. Grin. Groan My Big Fat Greek Dinner.

Parea is a buzzing Greek taverna that lives up to its name, which refers to a group of friends who gather to share their views on the world and take their nourishment from each other's company.

You'll also take nourishment from Parea's unfussed, traditional Greek flavours that don't require a second mortgage. Soon after 6pm on a Friday, the room was nearly full. A new wave would sweep through in a few hours. It's loud, bustling and infectiously joyous. Who wouldn't wish it close by so you could round up extended family and friends to head on down for a fast feast, fun and laughter?

How else should you start but with dips tapenade, taramasalata, tzatziki and a hummus rich with sesame paste and a pile of warm, fried pita I'd happily eat on its own? The menu is broken into four components, starting with several meze (the Greek tapas), pites (pies, or sandwiches), meats and sides. If you're a party of four or more, the $36 set menu saves thinking.

The kids' menu is simple and effective: spit-roasted lamb, chicken, lamb souvlaki or calamari, each with chips and pink lemonade. I'll have what they're having, I thought, though I'm partial to Alpha, $7.50, a fresh, sweetly hoppy Greek beer. Food arrived quickly: calamari, $14.90, in a dainty batter; grilled octopus, $14.90, soft from braising before being lightly charred and coated in a sweet grain mustard dressing that makes it, too, irresistible.

Four large triangles of spanikopita, $9.50, in curling, brittle, golden pastry didn't impress me much, but perhaps that's because I like a good lemony kick in the mix of spinach and feta and it's lacking in this version.

The room has a warehouse feel, with exposed beams, a timber floor and red banquette running along the brick wall. Tables are joined together across the room, hosting numerous families with young kids. It felt like a party. Behind a glass wall, skewers of souvlaki spun on the automated grill, the spit lamb slowly turning over coals too. The mostly male service kicked along affably; they smiled and it rubbed off.

And while the wine list isn't as nearly enticing at the food, it mostly sits under $40 and there's a wide range of ouzo to lead you astray. I could have skipped Greek pastries, $7.50, for dessert. Neither baklava nor the custardy, filo-wrapped galaktoboureko grabbed my attention, though I blame the meat platter. The real Greek treat is coffee frappe, $4.50, a foamy iced coffee that evokes summer holidays in Santorini.

HOW IT RATED: Parea (46 Rocky Point Rd, Kogarah; ph 9588 7887)

Food: 13/20
Staff: 7/10
Drink: 3/5
X-factor: 4/5
Value: 8/10

THE SCORE OUT OF 50: 35