Australian retailers have fallen for the allure of French pharmacy skincare products
INSPIRED by the allure of French pharmacies, the dermocosmetic skincare sector is booming in Australia, writes KATRINA LAWRENCE.
WHEN Gwyneth Paltrow wrote about her love of French pharmacies on her lifestyle website Goop several years ago, few of the products listed could be bought without booking a ticket to Paris.
Fast-forward to 2014, and the much-blagged-about concept of la pharmacie has influenced a growing number of Australian retailers to stock these cult skincare brands.
French pharmacies sell dermocosmetic skincare — clinically tested ranges that have been formulated by dermatologists to be as gentle on skin as they are effective at treating a specific concern, such as eczema, redness or ageing.
“What I love about les pharmacies is not only the choice of great, well-priced products, but also the advice of the employees there,” says French expat Emilie Mouline and now brand manager for Cosmetiques de France, Australian distributor of Bioderma, Uriage and Nuxe.
These three brands, along with La Roche-Posay and Avene, are the stars of Priceline Pharmacy’s dermocosmetic section, which has grown from a 1.2 per cent to 6 per cent share of the store’s skincare category in less than 12 months.
Five years ago, Priceline Pharmacy’s senior skincare buyer Tania Yates-Hammond travelled to France to research pharmacy retail and brands.
“We saw an opportunity to build up this area for Australian women, knowing that we have much harsher conditions than most other markets,” says Yates-Hammond.
“More than 65 per cent of Australian women will tell you that they have sensitive skin ... They’re looking for something that will do everything they want, but still be gentle on skin.”
Having in-store pharmacists has also allowed the beauty chain to tap into the French way of selling dermocosmetic skincare.
“You can talk to somebody about a serious atopic skin condition, like dermatitis or psoriasis, and these brands are complementary with prescription products to treat your skin,” Yates-Hammond says.
One of Priceline Pharmacy’s top sellers is Bioderma Sensibio H2O Cleanser & Make Up Remover, the non-rinse cleansing water that’s a favourite of models and make-up artists. Other popular buys are La Roche-Posay Anthelios Effaclar Duo Plus, an anti-blemish treatment, and Avene Thermal Spring Water spray.
Avene is one of the most established French pharmacy skincare brands in Australia, having been sold here since 1990.
“For many years, as the only dermocosmetic brand in Australia, we sat alone between a mix of therapeutic and cosmetic brands,” Avene brand manager Melissa Salemme says. “Pharmacy staff are now more interested in learning about French products.”
So, too, are beauty shoppers.
“Our customers like to be in the know,” says adorebeauty.com.au founder Kate Morris.
“There’s the cult aspect and the French cachet. But also the fact that these products are surprisingly well priced, given their effectiveness.”
Morris recently added the brand Embryolisse to her online dermocosmetic department — the Lait-Creme Concentre has barely been in stock since.
“It’s a simple moisturiser that works for any skin type, and it helps that every make-up artist seems to recommend it,” Morris says.
“A lot of our customers have discovered these products on their travels and are stoked to realise that they’re now here.”
Eyes and knockout lips have it this party season
BLAME it on Joan Smalls. When the supermodel — and Estee Lauder spokesperson — stepped onto the Met Gala red carpet in May wearing an electric violet pout as her statement accessory, she ignited a make-up trend that is still going strong this party season.
“I remember thinking, ‘Go, Joan!’ ... Wow,” says Blair Patterson, global director of make-up artistry for Estée Lauder.
“I was in Dubai a couple of days later and saw the look on the streets there, then I travelled to Argentina, where I also spotted it. It went viral! Even now, at the end of the year, you see it in Sydney.”
The secret to Smalls’ head-turning lip look was a custom-mixed combination of pink and magenta lipstick, and a navy eyeliner.
“There’s a certain amount of artistry that goes into red carpet looks,” Patterson says.
“Most women wouldn’t want to wear blue eyeliner on the lips, but a base of deep plum lip liner topped with bright pink lipstick gives you a similar yet wearable effect.”
Patterson nominates purple or plum lips as a must-try trend this party season.
“It’s a conversation piece, which is what you want at a party,” he says. “Just don’t add a super-heavy eye to super-heavy lips.”
“It confuses people because they don’t know where to look. You don’t want people to think you wear too much make-up, you simply want them to notice your best feature.”
If you prefer to play up your eyes — an option that Patterson recommends for standing out in photographs — try a smoky look.
“If you’re bored with the traditional black smoky eye, a fun way to update it is to use a shadow in a bright shade or a metallic texture,” Patterson advises.
Counter confidential: Best Marsala beauty buys
PANTONE has nominated ‘Marsala’, an earthy wine-red hue, as its top colour for 2015. Here’s how to dip your toe — or lip or eye — into the trend.
Lancome Hypnose Dazzling in #201 Rouge Cabaret, $44, department stores
For a limited time only, Lancome’s cream-meets-powder velvet-finish eye shadow comes in a reddish-brown hue flecked with gold for a gorgeous glimmering effect.
Nars The Multiple in G Spot, $52, meccacosmetica.com.au
The rosy-wine shade is subtly infused with shimmer, which makes this use-anywhere cult cream colour stick work especially well for lips, lids and cheeks.
Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Ultra Lipstick in Brick, $46, department stores
If you find red lipstick too loud and brown too serious, this perfect mix of the two colours is a wear-anywhere, suits-everyone shade.
Essence silky touch blush in Kissable, $5.10, pharmacies
A warm shade of blush complements darker skins beautifully; it can also be lightly swirled over the apples of cheeks to give any complexion a sun-kissed look.
ModelCo Nail Polish in Wine and Dine, $15, modelco-cosmetics.com
A deep merlot shade is a must for any nail colour wardrobe. Wear it slicked on short, neat nails for chicest effect.
Originally published as Australian retailers have fallen for the allure of French pharmacy skincare products
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