Best Polyglutamic Acid Serums to Add to Your Skincare Routine
Four times more hydrating than hyaluronic acid, this ingredient does wonders for your face, leaving skin seriously dewy and plump.
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Hyaluronic acid has got to be one of the most talked about skincare ingredients of the last few years, if not decade.
But while the ingredient gets plenty of hype for being a hydration hero, I have to confess I’ve failed to find a hyaluronic acid product that I’ve fallen in love with.
Too often I’ve found that hyaluronic acid serums feel too tacky on my skin or don’t layer well with other products, even causing my makeup to pill on several occasions.
I also haven’t been blown away by the hydrating properties of hyaluronic acid, despite making sure I always apply it to damp skin.
This led me to hunt for other alternatives and I stumbled across polyglutamic acid on TikTok, watching a video praising its skin plumping and (most importantly) the fact it was four times more hydrating than hyaluronic acid.
“Polyglutamic acid is a polymer of the amino acid glutamic acid that’s made via fermentation,” Paula’s Choice Skincare director of applied research and education Desiree Stordahl told news.com.au.
“It functions as a humectant, which attracts and holds water within skin and on its surface,” Desiree explained.
It’s best know for its skin hydration boosting benefits and works by forming a “hydrogel mesh network that expands to attract and hold water.”
“This creates a flexible-smooth, moisture binding layer on skin, which helps skin keep hydrated, even in conditions of low humidity,” she said.
“That translates to a more supple, plump, hydrated, and healthy appearance.”
Other benefits included helping with wound healing and the delivery of active ingredients as well as balancing out the impact of sun damage.
OUR TOP PICKS
EDITOR’S PICK OF THE BEST POLYGLUTAMIC ACID PRODUCTS
Charlotte Tilbury Charlotte’s Magic Serum Crystal Elixir, $123 at Charlotte Tilbury
Why we love it: Made my skin look dewy, plump and definitely more awake.
What to consider: High price tag.
Formula: Serum | Skin type: All skin types | Size: 30ml
Tried and Tested by Hannah Paine, Editor
This serum truly is magic. I’ve been a longtime fan of Charlotte Tilbury’s makeup products (yes, Pillow Talk really is worth the hype) but never tried any of their skincare line until learning that polyglutamic acid was the star ingredient in their Magic Serum Crystal Elixir. First things first, like all Charlotte Tilbury products it came in beautiful packaging that looked great on my bathroom vanity. It has a really pleasant fragrance and consistency that absorbed quickly into skin where it has an almost immediate effect on texture.
Over time I found my skin became more hydrated and bright in appearance. I used it every morning following eye cream and before my moisturiser, while at night I used it every second day when I didn’t apply retinol. My favourite thing about Magic Serum Crystal Elixir was how it didn’t pill and actually made anything you applied after it sit better, meaning it worked well as a primer.
While it’s at the more expensive end for a serum, the fact it contains vitamin C to brighten skin and a patented peptide blend called Replexium to reduce the appearance of fine lines (plus you can use it as primer, too) makes it well worth the price tag.
BUDGET-FRIENDLY POLYGLUTAMIC ACID PRODUCTS
The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid Serum, $26 at Sephora
Why we love it: Affordable price point.
What to consider: Some may not like the acidic scent.
Formula: Serum | Skin type: All skin types | Size: 30ml
Tried and Tested by Hannah Paine, Editor
At the other end of the price spectrum is The Inkey List’s Polyglutamic Acid Serum. The Inkey List is a British based skincare brand that focuses on results-driven products, this serum has (justifiably so) gone viral on TikTok and is the reason I first learnt about polyglutamic acid.
Like Charlotte’s Magic Serum Crystal Elixir I also saw immediate improvements with my skin after using it, as it plumps and smooths instantly. I also loved how calming The Inkey List’s serum was and found it perfect to use after retinol or any harsh actives to soothe my skin. It also layered well under my other skincare products and doubled as a primer (or could be mixed into my foundation for a dewy look).
Charlotte Tilbury Charlotte’s Magic Serum Crystal Elixir vs. The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid Serum
Charlotte Tilbury Charlotte’s Magic Serum Crystal Elixir
Pros: Absorbed into skin quickly, didn’t pill under other products and had a gorgeous subtle fragrance.
Cons: Addition of vitamin C means you have to be careful when using it with other actives and you can’t use it all after applying retinol. It’s also at the more expensive end for a serum.
The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid Serum
Pros: Affordable price point, super soothing on skin, pairs well with other skincare and under makeup.
Cons: With no added fragrance it has an acidic scent that I didn’t love.
Verdict
You won’t regret buying either one of these serums, with Charlotte’s Magic Serum great value for money thanks to the addition of vitamin C and Replexium. But The Inkey List’s formula felt more calming on my skin and is perhaps more suited to sensitive types. It also performs better than any other serum at the same price point that I’ve ever tried.
BEST POLYGLUTAMIC ACID BEAUTY PRODUCTS
Paula’s Choice C5 Super Boost Moisturiser, $59 at Paula’s Choice Skincare
Why we love it: It’s a multi-tasking moisturiser that brightens and hydrates the skin.
What to consider: Some users did not enjoy the way this product dried on their face.
Formula: Moisturiser | Skin type: All skin types | Size: 50ml
What You Need To Know
Besides vitamin C this moisturiser’s key ingredients include polyglutamic acid, making it a “powerhouse formula”, explains Desiree.
“Polyglutamic acid helps increase the production of natural moisturising factors (NMF) in skin, which contributes to having a healthier barrier, lasting hydration, and a healthy glow,” she said.
“We also included other superstars like hexapeptide-5 which is the peptide for improving elasticity. All of this complements vitamin C’s firming ability and helps skin resist sagging — think of it as preventive to get ahead of sagging before it starts.”
Dermalogica Circular Hydration Serum, $104 at Adore Beauty
Why we love it: This serum works hard to hydrate and strengthen your skin’s natural barrier at the same time.
What to consider: May not be ideal for oily skin types.
Formula: Serum | Skin type: Most skin types | Size: 30ml
Tried and Tested by Hannah Paine, Editor
If you love your hyaluronic acid but are looking for a more hardworking hydrating serum then this is the one for you. This serum combines hyaluronic acid with polyglutamic acid for hydration, as well as algae extract and a lactobacillus ferment blend to improve your skin barrier.
I’ve never used a Dermalogica product that I didn’t like and I found this serum equally as impressive as the others I’ve tried. Unlike other serums with hyaluronic acid I’ve used this one layered well, didn’t pill and instead was like a big drink of water for my skin.
Bioessance Squalane + Copper Peptide Rapid Plumping Serum, $125 at Sephora
Why we love it: Contains a rapid plumping complex to seriously make a difference to the way your skin looks.
What to consider: Some users claim this broke their skin out.
Formula: Serum | Skin type: All skin types | Size: 50ml
What You Need To Know
This serum contains the holy trinity of hydration: Hyaluronic acid, polyglutamic acid and squalene. Copper peptides also helps to drive collagen growth for gorgeously plump skin.
With over 350 five star reviews on Sephora’s website, happy customers say it “glides on nicely” and has a “silky thin texture”.
“This has saved my skin and I’m obsessed. Made my skin plump and glow. I don’t wear foundation, face powder, not tinted moisturiser daily so this helped my skin look healthy and hydrated,” one five star review reads.
Viviology Ceramide Moisturiser, $50 at Adore Beauty
Why we love it: Great moisturiser for sensitive skin types.
What to consider: May not work great for oily skin types.
Formula: Moisturiser | Skin type: Most skin types | Size: 50ml
What You Need To Know
Viviology is the brainchild of Australian dermal therapist James Vivian and is a science backed skincare range at an affordable price point.
This Australian made moisturiser contains ceramides, squalene and polyglutamic acid to nourish and protect your skin.
Five star reviews on Adore Beauty say it is like a “big hug for your face” and “so smooth and soft” on skin.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN BUYING A POLYGLUTAMIC ACID SERUM
When choosing polyglutamic acid serums to include in our list, we evaluated several factors.
Skin type: Do you have normal, combination, dry, oily or sensitive skin? Different formulations may be targeted to your type of skin.
Price: Polyglutamic acid serums can sit at a lot of different price points, so it depends on your personal budget.
Added ingredients: Apart from The Inkey List, it’s rare to see a polyglutamic acid serum with no other added ingredients. You can find products with added hyaluronic acid, peptides, niacinamide, vitamin C – the lis is endless.
Accessibility: Some products may be stocked at a few different retailers, while others are only available to be purchased from the brand’s direct website.
HOW WE CHOOSE PRODUCTS
With hundreds of serums available, it’s impossible to test every product out there. To help you find the best polyglutamic acid serum, we tested a handful of well-known brands at different price points. In addition, our shopping team read hundreds of customer reviews and looked at test results and ratings from product review sites to find the best polyglutamic acid serum for your complexion.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
IS POLYGLUTAMIC ACID BETTER THAN HYALURONIC ACID?
“Polyglutamic acid rivals the hydrating results of hyaluronic acid,” says Desiree.
“In fact, studies indicate it has a four times greater ability to hold hydration within skin’s surface layers compared with hyaluronic acid, thanks to its large molecular size.”
Polyglutamic acid can also be “more aesthetically pleasing” to users as it is “less ‘sticky’ than hyaluronic acid”, she added.
“However, it does not share hyaluronic acid’s antioxidant properties,” Desiree said.
“I wouldn’t say one is better than the other — rather, they each have their place in the world of skin care.”
HOW TO APPLY PRODUCTS WITH POLYGLUTAMIC ACID
“There’s no hard and fast rule when it comes to applying products that polyglutamic acid, but generally speaking, it’s always best to layer your serums, moisturisers, treatments, etc. in order of thinnest to thickest texture,” Desiree said.
“Daily application will deliver the best results.”
CAN YOU USE VITAMIN C AND POLYGLUTAMIC ACID TOGETHER?
Yes, similar to hyaluronic acid, polyglutamic acid works seamlessly with most (if not all) other skincare products. You can layer it with your favourite vitamin C serum in the morning, or layer it with your favourite vitamin A product in the evening.
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