The hottest places and things to eat around Victoria in 2018
FROM lamb bacon and cheesecake on a stick to dining completely in the dark, here’s 32 of the hottest things to eat and foodie places to try in Victoria right now.
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FROM lamb bacon to vegan ice cream, eating in the dark and frozen cheesecake on a stick, the Herald Sun’s food experts uncover 32 of the hottest things to eat and restaurants to try right now in Victoria.
13 AWESOME VICTORIAN DRINKS AND PLACES FOR A TIPPLE
KUNG FU BURGER
Fusion done well is a glorious thing. Take South Yarra’s Kung Fu Burger. Come hungry for soft white or black squid-ink buns filled with pulled pork and hoisin, 210g grass-fed beef with kimchi and homemade Korean chilli paste, crispy chook with Japanese pickles and yuzu mayo, or tempura soft-shelled crab and wasabi mayo. No tomato sauce in sight. MM
TIRAMISU LIFT ME UP
Cristina and Fabrizio Proietti’s Tiramisu Lift Me Up food van takes Fabrizio’s nonna’s recipe and adds modern twists. The treat comes in a waffle cup or cone but the hardest decision is which variety — salted caramel, dark choc and chilli, matcha, white choc and coconut. But for purists, it’s classics — mascarpone custard with espresso-soaked sponge fingers dusted with cocoa and grated dark chocolate. It’s heavenly — apt considering tiramisu translates to “lift me up” in English. MM
MELBOURNE’S MOST POPULAR CHINESE TAKEOUTS
HINOAK CHARCOAL BBQ
Experience smoke-free Korean charcoal barbecue at Hinoak in Glen Waverley. Owners Jason and Ella Lee have integrated grills and flues into the tables. Boxes glowing with hot coals slip into cavities under the table grill and the heat soon puts plenty of sizzle under marinated beef ribs. SP
STEAK NIGHT AT MOUNT ERICA
It’s billed as “Dono’s famous steak night”. Every Tuesday night at Prahran’s revamped Mount Erica Hotel, the pub is packed with a pan-generational crowd who are all feasting on Sean Donovan’s $18 steaks. Co-owner Donovan, who is also custodian of Fitzroy Town Hall Hotel, is a master of cooking meat. A 300g porterhouse with a glorious salted crust that gives way to a blushing pink inner, is served with a brilliant béarnaise with a sharp kick and a properly hot mustards remoulade. Golden chips finish a plate famous for good reason. DS
OAKWOOD SMALLGOODS
From a new home at Castlemaine’s The Mill, Ralf Fink is curing and smoking European smallgoods in time-honoured fashion at Oakwood. With temperature-controlled ageing rooms and a traditional wood-fired smoker, he’s creating prosciutto and black forest ham, loin bacon, frankfurts and smoked sausages from locally sourced free-range pork. Pick up leberkase and liverwurst, fleischsalat (ham salad) and cold cuts that might include an olive strasbourg and bierwurst — beer sausage. DS
PEZZO
Born in Italy, raised in Melbourne. That’s the clever line Guy Grossi uses to describe the 48-hour fermented pizza dough he shapes into hot pockets of pleasure at Flinders Lane’s Pezzo. The baked dough is dense but pliable, aerated but sturdy. But to fully appreciate Pezzo’s pezze (“piece” in Italian), you need to taste those fillings. The Original bulges with meatballs, tomato and provolone, the Hawker brims with porchetta and sauerkraut, while the Shepherd jemmies meltingly soft lamb shoulder into rosemary potatoes, onion and parsley. Is Grossi, is good. SP
NOSE AT NGV TRIENNIAL
The name, from Moroccan cafe culture, means half and half (coffee and milk) but there’s nothing half-hearted about Noss Noss at the National Gallery of Victoria. Artist Hassan Hajjaj has transformed the Gallery Kitchen into a Moroccan tea house where visitors to the NGV Triennial of Contemporary Art (until April 15) load up on falafel and hummus mezze, or brekky of semolina harsha (fried bread) with a cumin fried egg and whipped goats curd. SP
WESTERN PORT WONDERS
The farms and wineries on the Mornington Peninsula’s Western Port side are being joined by excellent eateries. Gourmet Paddock, a new 100-seat food emporium in Balnarring, is leading the way with steamed mussels, duck massaman curry and Speckle Park beef charred over coals. In Merricks North, at Willow Creek Vineyard, Rare Hare has room for 90 “tails’’. The devilled eggs are a must but the wood-fired oven also works wonders with chargrilled squid and lamb rump. And Balnarring’s refreshed Art-Deco-style Le Bouchon is a go-to for French onion soup, seared scallops and crepes suzette. SP
rarehare.com.au
gourmetpaddock.com.au
LAMB BACON
Corporate high-flyer turned farmer Toni Barton has created Australia’s first lamb bacon. Sick of seeing offcuts discarded, she turns the belly of her Australian White — called the wagyu of lamb due to marbling — into bacon by dry salting (with Murray River salt) and smoking (using red gum) just like pork. Barton now has at least 50 Victorian stockists. DS
WINNING TASTES
Each year the Royal Agricultural Society of Victoria awards food and drink products through a variety of competitions. Now those medal-winning products can be bought online in hamper form, with wines, spirits and beers also on offer. In partnership with Geelong’s Food Purveyor, the gourmet hampers have themes such as weekend escape, gourmet delight and sweet temptations. DS
VEGAN ICE CREAM
I scream, you scream, we all — even vegans — scream for ice cream. Thanks to a new wave of operators who are serving up creamy treats without the moo-cow cream, everyone can enjoy this favourite cool treat. Join the queue at Miinot in Pascoe Vale South for their fig nut or blue pompom gelato, or head to Girls and Boys for the pina colada soft serve in Fitzroy. Delight in Ms Bean’s creamy concoctions at Box Hill Central, while caramel macadamia ice cream at Savvy Organic Pizza and Ice Cream in Belgrave is hard to beat.
DS
BARRAMUNDI AT IKI-JIME
It’s certainly a face only a mother could love. But it’s what’s behind that mask that has adventurous seafood lovers falling head over heels. At Shannon Bennett’s new Iki-Jime, the seafood restaurant that’s taken the place of the old Bistro Vue on Little Collins St, you’ll find one of the boldest dishes from the sea — a single barramundi head. Here it’s slathered in a yeasty apple mix before being deep fried. With a surprising amount of sweet meat within its folds, this is rip-in, fin-to-gill dining of the finest order. DS
WONDER PIES
Pies bought to us by one of our great chefs, Ray Capaldi of Sofitel and Hare & Grace fame. Head to the new factory store in Bulleen to pick up something delicious for now or stock up the freezer for the best emergency dinner around.
LAURA AT PT LEO ESTATE
Merricks’ Pt Leo Estate will add another jewel to its enviable crown with its marquee restaurant, Laura. The 45 seater, named after the 134ha property’s prized sculpture, is due to open early next month under culinary director Phil Wood. It will take its cues from the main 100-seat bistro by showcasing the local and seasonal, but will dial up the detail over a set menu of up to six courses for lunch and dinner Thursday to Sunday, backed up by an extensive wine list of local, national and international drops. The dining room will boast sweeping bay views, pale leather-topped tables, bespoke local tableware and access to the open kitchen. MM
TARTE FLAMBEE AT RESTS BOBO
Sate those pizza cravings without demolishing a stuffed-crust super supreme. Regret nothing at Windsor’s Resto Bobo with its French pizzas from the Alsace region called taste flambee — ultra-thin, crisp dough bases topped with a layer of white sauce, melted French cheese and a few simple toppings. Ease in with the basic gratinee of smoked bacon, Emmental and onion, then branch out with chevre, prunes, pine nuts and honey, or blue cheese with pear and pecans. MM
RYAN LORDING
He’s the man with the Midas touch when it comes to cool cafes. The affable chef made his name at Prahran’s Tall Timber with his Insta-worthy dishes, then made ’em queue in Carnegie for his Oreo doughnut sliders at Left Field. His latest project, Plain Sailing, dropped anchor in Elwood in December to rave reviews, and he’s plotting his next move in Sandringham. Whether making a hero of kale or Oreos, his dishes are tasty and inventive; plates busy and bright, and lording over the cafe scene. MM
DANS LE NOIR
More than 1.5 million people around the world have experienced Dans Le Noir, a unique dining-in-the-dark restaurant. Now Melbourne is the latest city to join the likes of Madrid, London, Barcelona and the original restaurant in Paris, which opened in 2004. At Como Melbourne, diners are taken on a sensory journey in pitch darkness, where a three-course menu is served by visually impaired waiters who guide the experience. DS
VILLAGE BELLE HOTEL
St Kilda’s Village Belle has been summer’s go-to after a $15 million reno breathed new life into the 127-year-old boozer. But there’s no reason it won’t be a winter hot spot as well, with a soaring all-weather retractable glass roof to keep things cosy. Chef Mathew Macartney brings some fine-dining panache from his time at Chateau Yering and Lake House with cheffy mains and cracking desserts, while still pleasing punters with parmas and steaks. The front bar feels old school yet fresh. Upstairs, head to the balcony bar or the Doulton Lounge for late-night cocktails and DJs. MM
KING & GODFREE
After a “long and complicated” renovation, Carlton’s King & Godfree is set to reopen next month. The Italian eatery’s new rooftop bar is just the place for an airy aperitif. Food operations manager Neil Rocke, beverages director Meira Harel, general manager Anthony Musarra and head chef Julien Bianchi have just previewed its 360-degree views of Melbourne. But this Lygon St landmark since 1955 has other surprises in store. Look for 50-seat wine bar Agostino, The Cellar Bar serving cocktails and K & G Deli and Espresso Bar to pick up cured meats, cheeses, bread and ready-made meals. SP
MAHA
One of the CBD’s best-loved restaurants has notched up a decade but the man behind Maha isn’t resting on his laurels. After overhauling the dining room two years ago, Shane Delia closed his basement space for six weeks to install his dream kitchen. The mod-Middle Eastern fine diner has reopened for its 10-year anniversary this week, with a 2000-bottle wine cellar, a kitchen providing more flexibility and firepower — and not much change from $1 million. “Our kitchen will be opened to our diners and our chefs put on a show behind a glass window,” Delia says.
MM
TWENTY PHO SEVEN
The latest addition to the nocturnal dining scene, this 24-hour eatery on Russell St serves steaming bowls of pho — sliced beef, with brisket, tendons and tripe, plus chicken and vegan options — in a broth recipe passed down through generations. Also see bubble tea cocktails, foot-long bath mi and crispy pork-belly skewers. MM
NEW-WAVE INDIAN
Step into Brunswick’s Bhang for charcoal-oven treats, curries and Indian-inspired cocktails. Check out Cafe Southall in St Kilda, a tight 35-seater riffing on classics from India’s heartland, or Madras Brothers in Fitzroy, an “authentic Tamil eatery and bar”, for southern street snacks. And Albert Park’s Atta serves “indigenous” dishes elevated with new flavours and ingredients. It has an upmarket vibe but the service is more fun than formal. A whole new passage to India. SP
AAHARN SRIRACHA SAUCE
He’s the world’s guru on Thai cooking, so when David Thompson says Aaharn is the best sriracha sauce, we listen. It’s one of the only sriracha hot sauces actually made in the Thai fishing village from which it takes its name. Thompson says the depth of flavour from the chilli and garlic elevates the sauce — and dishes it accompanies. Buy it for home exclusively at Long Chim at Crown. DS
STIX AT ROYAL STACKS
Coburg-based Stix, purveyors of Insta-worthy frozen cheesecakes on a stick, are now available at Royal Stacks. Chase down that burger with a Golden Gaytime, Oreo-Nutella, Hazelnut Crunch or Caramel Biscotti sweet treat. MM
SOUTHERN FRIED CHICKEN AT LORNA
Folk who troop into Ferntree Gully’s Lorna cafe are often fighting fit, having tackled the 1000-step Kokoda Memorial Walk nearby. But even the most health-conscious find it hard to resist the Southern fried chicken. Co-owner Josh O’Brien sends it out with savoury waffles, pickled celery, an heirloom tomato salsa and jalapeños. Add a poached egg and it’s a breakfast worth the trek east. SP
SCOTCH EGG AT VICTORIA HOTEL
Publican Anthony Hammond (Builders Arms, Fitzroy) has given a new lease of life to what was Footscray’s Hart’s Hotel. “Footscray is really evolving, the demographic is changing and that’s what drew me to the area,” he says. Victoria Hotel is a handsome, unpretentious space dominated by a large island bar serving a dozen interesting beers from icy taps. Food comes courtesy of Kiwi chef James Cornwall, fresh from Hong Kong’s Russian Seafood Room, and his scotch egg is reason to visit alone. The egg comes swathed in a mix of sweet pork mince hiding a hint of black pudding. Add a chunky apple and raisin relish and you have a bar snack to bring ’em all back. DS
BREAKFAST AT GLACE
There’s sweet and frozen stuff to burn, but at French-trained pastry chef and MasterChef regular Christy Tania’s first solo venue near the St Kilda junction in Windsor, you can get a fine breakfast, too. Team Proud Mary coffee and interesting mocktails with fluffy activated-charcoal pancakes and an oozy-egg croque madame on brioche.MM
NAKED FOR SATAN
Satanic verses? Not exactly. But when Naked For Satan, the cookbook, is out next month, you’ll have everything you need to know about this pumping Fitzroy bar. Basque-inspired pintxos and cocktails, the baby octopus on chickpea, and the chocolate, hazelnut and Pedro Ximenez sorbet all get a guernsey. Of course, there’s nothing like being at Naked For Satan, whether loitering by the vodka distillery or four floors up on the roof. SP
WARRNAMBOOL CHEESE
With its Heritage cheddar flavours, one of Australia’s oldest dairies has its sights on the future. It bridges the sweet-savoury divide with the maple and toffee-spiked cheddar. Providing dessert and cheese in one, it’s a riot of sharp/salty cheese, maple and sticky toffee sweetness. DS
RATIO COCOA ROASTERS
Chocolate is given the same love and care as coffee and wine at Ratio, where single-origin cocoa beans are turned into handcrafted chocolate bars. Owner Debbie Makin spent time in Africa, Peru and the Solomon Islands and saw first-hand the cocoa trade, its effect on communities and how different beans from each area tasted. She’s brought the bean-to-bar process to Brunswick, with all 10 steps on show, such as the 72-hour grinding of ingredients. Book a tour to learn more. MM
HEMP
From breakfast granola and lattes to beer o’clock, hemp is here, and it’s high time, say its fans. After more than 15 years of lobbying from the hemp industry, hemp food products were made legal in Australia in November. While it comes from the same species of cannabis plant as marijuana, it has negligible levels of the mind-altering chemical THC. It’s found its way into muesli, smoothies, muffins and slices, with hemp seeds dubbed the latest superfood as a good source of protein, minerals, fibre and essential fatty acids. It’s also a sustainable crop. Taste hemp’s smoky, nutty flavour in Australia’s first hemp beer, Doss Blockos Hempire Hemp Ale, released last year by Melbourne’s East 9th Brewing. It’s among hundreds of businesses releasing products, with Hemp Foods Australia expecting consumable hemp to be a $1 billion industry in Australia within the next decade.
DOMAINE CHANDON DINING
Chandon in Coldstream just got more celebratory. A refurb of the Yarra Valley champagne hub has subdivided the old Green Point Room into three zones. On one side is a revamped restaurant helmed by chef Joshua Smyth; on the other, a lounge with curvy banquettes in spotted gum tones; in between, a “retail boutique”. Chandon’s view? Sparkling. SP
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