The charming Frankston cafe that’s punching above its weight

On a quiet street in Frankston, a new cafe is punching above its weight with a combination of cheffy smarts and home-style charm. Just make sure you order the pork belly.

Megan Miller

2 min read

December 17, 2018 - 10:10AM

VIC News

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This is the little cafe with the long name punching way above its weight.

Its unassuming frontage on a quiet residential street in Frankston might be just the way the locals like it, so destination diners will need to keep their peepers peeled.

Having met more than a decade ago at a now-closed Frankston restaurant, chef Jamie Bowman and partner Mikaela Keysers opened Two Boys One Beagle and a Coffee Shop in July.

It’s essentially their fourth “child”, after their two young sons and pet beagle Penelope, bringing the food they like to eat to their home suburb.

WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT FRANKSTON

SUBURBAN CAFE WITH NOTHING OVER THE MAGIC $20 MARK

MELBOURNE’S CHRISTMAS DAY LUNCH SPOTS YOU CAN STILL BOOK

Two Boys One Beagle and A Coffee Shop’s Pancake & Pannacotta.

It’s food that others like to eat, too, if weekend queues are any indication, because word is getting out on Bowman’s all-day brunch menu that’s the right mix of cheffy smarts and home-style charm.

The 40-seater also does a good line in beautifully decorated home-baked cakes — the raspberry and white chocolate combo is a bestseller — to eat on site or take away whole.

FOOD

Hearty appetites will love the Pyrenees Pork Belly ($25), a well-stocked plate heroing a well-rendered slab of local belly crowned with crisp crackle. It keeps good company with a fried free-range egg, circles of charred onion, funky kimchi made using Keysers’ dad’s favourite recipe, and a good slice of fried saganaki to keep you going until dinner. Swing sweet to the Pancake & Pannacotta ($17), with its epicentre of fluffy pink velvet pancake tinted with beetroot. It’s topped with a wobbly pannacotta puck subtly flavoured with coffee, all countered with caramelised banana, crushed hazelnuts and meringue pieces.

Two Boys One Beagle and A Coffee Shop’s jalapeño & manchego croquettes.

Packing some heat are jalapeño and manchego croquettes ($18), accompanied by charred corn, avocado, thin-sliced salami and house-made tomato jam.

For kids, options include a scaled-down pancake ($9) and a top little brisket slider with chips ($12). All are served with fruit cups.

DRINK

Coffee is from Mornington roaster Commonfolk, or there’s Mork hot chocolate, cinnamon-spiked chai or a turmeric latte with almond milk and honey.

Cold drinks include two flavours of house-made kombucha and two tempting smoothies ($9).

SERVICE

A very green young crew at the helm this sunny Sunday morning. While sweet-natured, they had no sense of hustle for customers waiting for a table or a takeaway coffee.

Two Boys One Beagle and A Coffee Shop in Frankston.

X FACTOR

Forget your architect-designed fit-outs, this place is unashamedly lo-fi. Pink rules — on walls, signs, plates, high chairs and the coffee machine — while macramé and graphic prints of Australian flora and fauna add to the rustic charm.

BANG FOR YOUR BUCK

Most plates land under $20, which is great value considering their multi-element composition from quality, often name-checked ingredients.

VERDICT

This humble Funky Town cafe with the knockout food shows you can’t always judge a book by its cover.

megan.miller@news.com.au