Southgate restaurant Pure South a showcase for Tassie produce

SOUTHGATE fixture Pure South has its groove back with artful presentation, a multi-million dollar renovation and a menu with Tassie produce name-checked in almost every dish.

The view across Pure South Dining (downstairs). Picture: Tim Carrafa

SOUTHBANK has got its groove back. Pure South Dining reopened in December, twice the size and double the height after an eight-month, multimillion-dollar renovation.

The Southgate fixture since 2004 now seats 250 across two floors — fine dining upstairs and a lower level devoted to more casual all-day eating and drinking from breakfast to post-theatre tipples and cheese, all while retaining a focus on Tasmanian produce.

It’s grown-up dining without being stiff, catering for groups of two or 12 or more with food that’s artfully presented and cheffy where it needs to be.

Picture: Tim Carrafa

FOOD

Chef David Hall and his large team put a light touch on Tassie produce name-checked in almost every dish — from Pyengana Dairy butter and cream to grass-fed King Island beef.

In an age when we care a lot about where food comes from, this is ground zero for
good provenance.

Naughty and nice for breakfast, a croissant ($22) houses layers of cured Huon ocean trout between its buttery folds, with salmon roe and a poached egg that unleash with every cut of the knife.

The hotcake ($22, right) takes the naughtiness up a notch, a fluffy high pie of maple-drenched cake adorned with berries, cream, honeycomb and edible flowers.

Or swap that breakfast bacon for some Flinders Island wallaby, slices subtly cured in coffee, star anise and coriander before landing with smoked scrambled eggs on toast.

And what’s a visit to Tassie without a scallop pie ($25)? Get your gourmet, deconstructed fix here with a pastry disc heaped with eight or so seared scallops with pear, curry leaves and a rich bisque. Small but perfectly formed.

Pure South Dining (downstairs). Picture: Tim Carrafa

DRINK

Milk-based Giancarlo coffee ($4) is decent, and watch your oranges juiced fresh in a machine in the dining room. Also quench a thirst with eight beers on tap and 10 by the bottle, as well as a 20-strong wine list of mostly Tassie, Victorian and South Australian drops. About half come by the glass. Cocktails delve into interesting territory, such as the daiquiri ($19) with rum, vanilla, lime and beetroot juice.

S ERVICE

After waiting at the entrance for a minute or so to be seated, we’re shown to a booth at the back where waters are topped up and dishes explained.

X FACTOR

The space is functional and handsome, with lots of wood, concrete and metal. Chairs are comfy and tables amply spaced. Love the front fold-up windows with views to the Yarra and passing crowds (and the afternoon buskers — your call on whether that’s a plus or a minus).

BANG FOR YOUR BUCK

Zero change from a lobster here. Bigger breakfast dishes hover around $22.

VERDICT

Pure South Dining 2.0 puts swagger and class back into Southbank. With casual eating now joining the fine-dining game, this is a place where you’ll want to work through the menu.

Pure South Dining (downstairs). Picture: Tim Carrafa

PURE SOUTH DINING (downstairs)

River level, 3 Southgate Ave, Southbank. Ph: 9699 4600

FOOD

Mod cafe

HOURS

Mon-Fri 7am-late; Sat-Sun 8am-late

CHEF

David Hall

BOOKINGS

Yes

TIME BETWEEN ORDERING & EATING

12 minutes

ONLINE

puresouth.com.au

PERFECT FOR

Breakfast meetings, working lunches

DESTINATION DISH

Ocean trout, salmon roe, egg, croissant

NOISE LEVEL

Satisfactory

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