Sandringham’s new Port of Call cafe has beachy vibes in spades
BAYSIDE’S newest bustling cafe answers all your insta-brunching needs. But it’s the beachy vibes and easy, breezy style that’s pulling in the weekend queues.
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BAYSIDE’S newest cafe, bustling Port of Call, is what we’ve come to expect from brunch. Vibrantly composed plates, naughty and nice options, and a few social media hooks from the eat-with-your-eyes file, and watch the weekend queues form.
This Sandringham 80-seater is the latest venture from a group of owners whose runs on the board include some of Melbourne’s most popular cafes — Carnegie’s Left Field, Elwood’s Plain Sailing and Tall Timber in Prahran.
There’s a formula at play, but each place has enough of its own character and unique dishes not to feel generic.
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A lot of work has been put into turning this site — most recently a real estate agency, and originally three shops — into a cafe, with much of the back end requiring structural work to allow natural light in.
On the plate, fresh produce is spun in new and exciting ways in dishes that are comforting, familiar and satisfying.
FOOD
The spiced pumpkin waffles ($19, pictured) have been Port of Call’s Insta calling card for good reason. It’s a snazzy-looking dish: two bronzed deep-holed waffles with orange-tinged mascarpone cleverly lending creaminess and cut-through, a pot of orange maple, and seeds, nuts and berries for tasty decoration. But the waffle’s spice and pumpkin is possibly in flavour witness protection, making the dish a little style over substance.
The brisket fry-up ($22) is a man-sized meal of beef brisket shreds tussling with chickpeas, pomegranate and cubes of sweet potato, with a pumpkin seed dukkah adding a lovely Middle Eastern earthiness. Add two fried eggs and Rustica quinoa toast, and you can officially forgo eating until dinner.
Served from noon, lunch might be a soft-shelled crab burger ($19.50) on a Kermit-y matcha bun, or a Moroccan pulled-lamb salad ($22) on a thick bed of roasted capsicum hummus.
Kids under 12 can opt for smashed avo, eggs any way on toast, or a ham and cheese toastie.
DRINK
Coffee is Niccolo’s smooth house blend, but also see two Mork hot chocolates, Raja chai lattes and a Golden Grind turmeric latte. One of two smoothies, the mango, peach and banana smoothie ($10) is a tropical pick-me-up cut with orange and lemon.
SERVICE
A young crew gets the job done, from negotiating seating to explaining dishes, but some processes, such as paying the bill, could be more streamlined.
X FACTOR
The easy, breezy Scandi-style fit-out — check out the cool mosaic floor tiles — befits the bayside address, and there are plenty of spots for solo diners as well as groups, albeit a bit squishy in areas. When this place is busy, bring your listening ears because it gets loud.
BANG FOR YOUR BUCK
On-par pricing averaging $20 for generously sized, multi-elemented plates.
VERDICT
Lots to like at this port of call that should only get better with time.
PORT OF CALL
7 Bay Rd, Sandringham
9533 4657
FOOD Mod cafe
HOURS Mon-Fri 7am-4pm, Sat-Sun 7.30am-4pm
ONLINE portofcall.com.au
REVIEW Megan Miller