Review: The Diplomat Highett perfectly straddles homely and hipster

REVIEW: THIS 80-seater eatery in Melbourne’s inner south perfectly straddles homely and hipster. Even the music — ranging from rap to easy listening — is egalitarian.

The Diplomat in Highett. Picture: Rebecca Michael

DIPLOMACY is the fine art of treading carefully. In the cafe world, this may equate to the delicate balance of pitching your premises correctly so as not to alienate anyone.

In a suburban setting, it’s even more crucial that you’re on the money. Get it right and you’ll be loved by all-comers, stuff it up and you’ll find yourself polishing the cutlery — again.

The Diplomat in downtown Highett perfectly straddles homely and hipster.

Like a true diplomat, the 80-seater opposite the train station receives all, from yummy mummies and blue-rinsers to local workers and mall rats.

Even the music — ranging from rap to easy listening — is egalitarian.

It’s the first venture of Eben Hocking (front of house), Bill Stafilis (coffee) and chef Russell Kingston, who all worked together a few years back at Merchants Guild cafe in East Bentleigh.

Hocking grew up in the area and, seeing demand for “new and fresh cafes in the endless suburbs”, zeroed in on his old ’hood with its family-centric catchment and up-and-coming apartment population.

The Diplomat in Highett. Picture: Rebecca Michael

The Diplomat in Highett. Picture: Rebecca Michael

The Diplomat in Highett. Picture: Rebecca Michael

The trio moonlighted as labourers, carpenters and painters to gut and transform an old bakery into the cafe you see today. They opened the doors last year but recently closed for another refurb — redoing the flooring and adding more planter boxes and greenery.

The called it The Diplomat as an all-encompassing decree for food and service.

FOOD

Whether you’re eating clean or up for something a bit more rich, The Diplomat can accommodate.

Creative flavours include barberry, macadamia and ginger muesli ($13) with rhubarb panna cotta, honey-poached apple and lemon balm, and warming cinnamon French toast ($16.50) replete with caramelised banana, crème patisserie, honeycomb, toasted coconut and fresh berries.

If you like your breakfast to feature smashed green things, you’re in luck.

An avocado and soft herb mash ($18) keeps company with poached eggs, goat’s curd and za’atar, while an excellently earthy pea, broad bean and feta smash ($17.50) is loaded onto light rye toast with a fried egg and crispy pancetta.

Also worthy from the smallish open kitchen is a sweet potato rosti ($18, below). It provides a thick slab on which layers of hot smoked trout, wilted spinach and a poached egg with a feisty-good jalapeño hollandaise are built.

Sweet potato rosti. Picture: Rebecca Michael

Go lean and green, too, with the broccoli, pea and spring onion fritters ($18.50), two of them stacked with smoked salmon, a hefty dollop of avocado mash and a poached egg on a swipe of lifting lime aioli.

Elsewhere, slices of wild mushrooms and grilled chorizo are paired on dark rye ($18.50) enriched with melted cheese with poached eggs, spinach and a chunky-chopped pesto for a garden of earthy delights.

Lunching? The dirty chook ($15.50) is probably the go. A lightly crumbed and fried chicken fillet is elevated beyond mere schnitzel, given the buffalo treatment with cayenne for a tinge of hot, landing
in a soft white roll with coleslaw. A mild blue-cheese dipping sauce sits to the side, but needed more oomph.

Junior diners are not forgotten with a six-item menu that includes pancakes ($6.50) with maple syrup and banana.

Cakes and other sweet things can be found in a display cabinet. Opt for berry and lemon cupcakes, salted caramel lamingtons or a wicked caramel slice.

DRINKS

Milk-based coffee is a mellow caramel blend from Brunswick roaster Padre, while Gardenvale’s Omar and the Marvellous Coffee Bird provides the single-origin espressos.

Choose from a lengthy list of Larsen & Thompson teas ($4), and have it arrive on a wooden board with natty sand-glass brewing timers. Juice is above par, with not only freshly squeezed orange juice, but apple juice ($6) too.

SERVICE

Wait staff are invested and seem genuinely happy to be there.

They nail the basics — warm greeting, water on the table, coffee orders taken promptly and a good amount of time given to peruse the menu, all of which can be a lost art.

The Diplomat is also super in accommodating children, who are supplied with crayons and
colouring-in sheets on arrival.

X-FACTOR

A bright and open interior full of wood panelling and designer-look lighting is welcoming yet chic.

A communal table with stools takes pride of place and there are perches for singles and duos at a bar in the front window.

The Diplomat. Picture: Rebecca Michael.

There’s also ample outdoor seating.

Clientele ranges from regulars to destination diners, with weekend swarms swiftly tended to.

BANG FOR YOUR BUCK

Some may baulk at paying close to $20 for breakfast in suburbia, especially given the serves aren’t overly huge, but take the quality-not-quantity approach and you won’t be sorry.

VERDICT

Friendly relations and a fail-safe mission to provide comfort food as well as healthy options — how delightfully diplomatic.