Review: Miss Ruben, Ripponlea a one-stop shop

IN TODAY’S busy world we all love a one-stop shop that means one less carpark, queue and errand on the to-do list. This cafe/deli/foodstore in Melbourne’s south is that place.

Weekend Cafe Review: Miss Ruben in Ripponlea. Picture Rebecca Michael.

IN TODAY’S busy world, we all love a one-stop shop — somewhere that means one less carpark, queue and errand on the to-do list.

Miss Ruben is that place. Go for a quick coffee or your fill of breakfast or lunch, and leave with that night’s dinner or a few fridge fillers. The Miss Ruben behind this sunny spot is Amanda Ruben, who sold her Cooper & Milla’s cafes in Armadale and Toorak 2½ years ago. Living in nearby Elsternwick, she saw a gap in the Ripponlea village for the ready-made gourmet salads that were Cooper & Milla’s calling card.

A former journalist and PR company owner, Ruben took over the old bank building, most recently a gift store, in July. She’s turned it into a delightfully hospitable space that’s part cafe/part Jewish deli/part foodstore, with a big commercial kitchen out the back and a New York deli theme upfront befitting the area.

Ready-to-go meals and catering are also a big part of the business, which opened its doors late last year. Everything is made on-site, bar the bagels from 5 and Dime and bread from Baker D. Chirico or Frank’s Elsternwick Bakery.

The charming 40-seater is keeping good company, joining quality cafes Spout, Ripponlea Food & Wine and Hawk & Hunter in the ’hood. World-acclaimed fine-diner Attica is right next door.

Chef Eddie Atkin (ex Coin Laundry, Two Birds One Stone, Woodfrog Bakery and Baker D. Chirico) joined the Miss Ruben fold last month, honing the dine-in offering.

Miss Ruben in Ripponlea. Picture: Rebecca Michael

FOOD

On the brunch front, there’s house-made granola ($14), buttermilk pancakes with lemon curd and pistachio floss ($16.50) and banana, sunflower and sesame bread with espresso butter ($10.50).

Making pastrami here is a three-day affair. Cape Grim brisket is soaked, rubbed in spices, seasoned, steamed and smoked before being sliced into thick slabs for the signature brekkie “ruben” ($15).
A toasted Kaiser roll is also piled with lettuce, sriracha mayo and an oozy fried egg uniting all ingredients.

For lunch, it also lands in the classic pastrami on rye ($17) along with zingy red kraut and Dijon mustard, with a pickle.

The signature brekkie “ruben”. Picture: Rebecca Michael

The potato croquettes ($19.50) are an easy sell. The two croquettes are well seasoned, crunchy shelled and filled with fluffy carbs just as they should be, topped with delicate house-cured salmon slices and a poached egg. Pickled zucchini and a vibrant beetroot puree are solid accompaniments.

The inescapable avo on toast ($18.50) gets a rev up here with sauteed spinach, poached eggs and feta, all dusted with good dukkah.

The glass counter heaves with gourmet goodies — sweet treats on top such as chocolate and halva brownies, and inside, big glorious bowls of daily-changing salads and whole slow-cooked Peter Bouchier lamb shoulders, as well as Bannockburn free-range roast chooks to go.

Those salads are impressive — big hunks of roast pumpkin tricked up with pomegranate, or heirloom beets sliced and diced with radish and orange segments, or a purple and white cauliflower salad with pine nuts.

Eat in with a choice of three ($15.50/$21.50) or take away ($12.50 small/$18.50 large).

The avocado/silverbeet/poached eggs dish. Picture: Rebecca Michael.

In the fridges at the front of the shop are take-home meals and morsels — dips, cured salmon, pumpkin and goat’s cheese risotto ($15), vego and meat lasagnes, spanakopita pies, pasta sauces, chicken soup and matzah balls.

We leave with a tray of Italian meatballs ($25) for dinner. We extend them out with pasta and tomato passata They hold their flavour and shape and heartily feed two people. It was also worth it knowing no one had to cook that night.

Catering is also available. Ruben says people often provide her with their own serving plates and platters so guests think they’ve cooked a dinner party themselves.

Your secret’s safe.

DRINKS

Coffee is a smooth, easy-drinking blend from Hawthorn’s Axil Coffee Roasters, with Chai Boy chai and Larsen & Thompson teas also available.

Fresh orange juice is $7.

Miss Ruben owner Amanda Ruben and chef Eddie. Picture Rebecca Michael.

SERVICE

Welcoming, efficient and observant service.

X-FACTOR

A stylish, breezy and open fitout of this old bank building, with its Art Deco leanings played up with marble, brass and timber.

The seating has been recently reconfigured from stools around a big table to about 40 seats, including a few along the front bar. Another six perches can be found on the footpath, bathed in morning sun if you time a visit well.

The slogan, “Stay Humble, Eat Like a King” on the menus and on a wall mural is a nice touch.

BANG FOR YOUR BUCK

Miss Ruben would never be described as cheap — the bar was set with those salads at Cooper & Milla’s — and many will baulk at handing over $20 for salad.

However, yes, it’s pricey, but the concept and execution is well done, and the standard of ingredients is high.

VERDICT

Convenience comes at a price, but there’s no denying brunch or lunch with a side of dinner to go is an appealing prospect.