Pub grub: Victoria’s 25 best chicken parmigianas
WE assembled a crack team of chicken parmigiana lovers to trawl the state for the best parmas. These were our 25 favourites. Do you agree?
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CHICKEN parmigiana might be a simple pub favourite, but the permutations and preferences are endless.
Is it better to have the chicken on top or beside the chips? Ham or no ham? Fat beer-battered chips or fries?
A smattering of lettuce on the side or a gourmet dressed salad? Do we call it a parma or a parmi?
Over two months, we went in search of the best chicken parmigiana in Victoria.
A great parma can’t just be judged on that slab of chicken and melted cheese deliciousness.
We marked our experiences out of 50, judging the quality and thickness of the chicken, the crumbing and different elements.
We also scored the chips and salad. Finally, we looked at service, value and ambience of the venue.
Did we miss any? Tell us below.
41 Spensley St, Clifton Hill
THIS unpretentious backstreet locals’ joint has been keeping Clifton Hill in good food and better craft beers for years, and continues to serve one of the best parmas around. Panko-coated butterflied breast that’s pan-fried until it’s all golden crunch comes topped with good house napoli, ham and brilliantly blistered cheese. It’s served with an excellent, sharply dressed slaw, and admirably hefty, chunky chips, though unfortunately a touch oily. But otherwise this is a benchmark parma highlighting quality over quantity and, at $20, peerless at the price.
And another thing: There’s a kids’ version of that killer parma for $11.
Parma: 18.5/20; chips: 6/10; salad: 9/10; other: 8/10
280 Lygon St, East Brunswick
IT’S out with sticky carpets and in with a spiffy new look at the East Brunswick Hotel, and while the band room is no more, this is still the home of one totally rockin’ parma. A big piece of free-range, tender chook comes snuggled in a light herb-crumb blanket with great crunch. A layer of smoky speck/bacon and an exquisite napoli laden with whole fresh basil leaves, along with a judicious amount of stringy mozzarella, elevate this offering to the sublime. A bowl of mustard-dressed rocket and radicchio, and perfectly golden, salty fries (with tomato sauce on the side) seal this as the best in town ($24.50).
And another thing: Head in for the tradies’ lunch, where a parma and pot is just $15.
Parma: 19/20; chips: 8.5/10; salad: 8/10; other: 9/10
65 Grant St, Alexandra
THERE could hardly be a better way to spend a relaxing spring day than sitting in the main street outside the Commercial Hotel. Except, of course, sitting outside the hotel eating one of its sensational chicken parmas. I stuck with the $26 traditional parma and wasn’t disappointed. The juicy and tender chicken breast was thick and coated with only the finest layer of crumbs (secret crumbs, according to the menu). Sitting, as any good parma should, beside the chips, it was lavished with a beautiful balance of cheese, ham and napoli sauce. And those chips — just wow, probably the best I have eaten.
And another thing: The Commercial boasts its own separate parma menu, featuring 17 versions of our pub favourite, from the Karlisa with
a blend of camembert, pesto, bacon and cheese, to the double banger — two parmas sandwiched with mashed potato.
Parma: 17/20; chips: 10/10; salad: 8/10; other: 9/10
895 Dandenong Rd, East Malvern
THE Racecourse Hotel welcomes punters into an inviting bistro dining room with the promise that “every dish is passionately prepared”.
That’s certainly the case with their chicken parmigiana. Here is one of Melbourne’s better specimens — plump, juicy, well crumbed — with superior chips and a full garden salad. All at a reasonable price.
Hospitable service and a thoughtfully assembled wine list makes The Racecourse Hotel a winner.The parma, at $24.90, incorporated quality, inches thick white meat with light bronze crumbing. The napoli tomato sauce was not too intrusive; two leaves of high-quality ham underneath and a molten lid of cheese on top. Elements all integrated nicely.
The chips were not super crisp, but well tanned. High quality and quantity all round.
And another thing: A tasting plate for one? Coming right up at the Racecourse.
Parma: 18/20; chips: 7/10; salad: 9/10; other: 9/10
2 Bourke St, Melbourne
“WOW,” I thought when the huge plate landed. It’s a parma of undeniable beauty and the Imperial has long been lauded as serving the best in town. And there’s lots to like — an especially good panko parmesan crumb with tanned, molten mozzarella atop sides of salad and chips. But the chicken, though tender, was tasteless, the ham fine, if not memorable, and the napoli, served almost cold, had no depth of flavour.
While serving a rocket and parmesan salad is a step up, it was underdressed and unseasoned. But those chips are best in class beauties. So, there’s no doubt this parma is very good, but is it the best? Not any more ($26).
And another thing: Huge rooftop bar coming.
Parma: 17/20; chips: 10/10; salad: 7.5/10; other: 8/10
38 Loch Valley Rd, Noojee
NOOJEE is set among the rich, rolling green hills of Gippsland, and is a beautiful place for a weekend drive. The rustic Outpost Restaurant recently shifted its focus to more pub-style fare, and the menu’s “Parma Board” is extensive, including vegetarian, traditional, Aussie, Mexican, Indian, Portuguese, Spanish, Italian and Hawaiian.
The Mexican ($27) is highly recommended; an enormous, high-quality portion of chicken crumbed in crushed corn chips and smothered with the tastiest cheese, laden with spicy jalapeños. A side of sour cream is provided, accompanied by long, crunchy chips and a pasta salad interspersed with fresh garden vegies.
And another thing: Book on weekends to avoid going hungry.
Parma: 18/20; chips: 8/10; salad: 9/10; other: 8/10
301 High St, Northcote
THIS grand old dame of the northern suburbs’ live music scene has had a makeover. The gigs are still going, beers are still flowing, and, with a new chef — Martin de Korte —, the parmas are rocking. Excellent smoky, thinly sliced ham, a napoli with real depth and tender breast covered in a crumb with a reverberating crunch. A veg-tastic salad and good salty chips — served separately — complete this hit maker ($25).
And another thing: Stick around for a gig in the new-look band room.
Parma: 18.5/20; chips: 8/10; salad: 8/10; other: 8/10
35 Anderson St, Yarraville
IN the heart of Yarraville village, the newly renovated Railway Hotel turns out one mean chicken parma that’s missing only one thing — ham. The quality of the meal though should come as no surprise as the chefs get plenty of parma practice, churning out dozens every Tuesday night when the $15 parma is on the menu. And it’s not just the original, which is the only one on the menu the rest of the week. There’s a choice of five on Parma Tuesdays, with original, satay, Mexican, meatlovers and Mediterranean on the menu. The plush surroundings are a relaxing hideaway from the hustle of busy Anderson St, and discreetly placed televisions show a variety of sports if conversation with your companion dries up. Service took a little longer than it should on an otherwise quiet midweek lunchtime, but the parma, at $22.50, is worth the wait.
And another thing: Tuesday is $15 parma night with five flavour options.
Parma: 18/20; chips: 8/10; salad: 7/10; other: 8/10
49 Main St, Birregurra
JUST like the country pub where it’s served, the Royal Mail parma is classy without overdoing it. There’s nothing fancy — just tender chicken with even crumbing that doesn’t overwhelm, beside a neat salad, that gives the dish an inconspicuous lift and thick, golden cut chips that won’t give you the guilts. The time lost waiting for a menu is made up for in the delivery of the meal and with some ambient music as a lunchtime soundtrack (thanks Norah Jones), you might briefly forget you’re tucking into what is meant to be heavy pub fare. The parma was moist and tender and while there was not enough sauce, this was saved by the generous, but well-balanced, cheese and ham. The chips, resting under and beside the chicken, were a golden highlight. The salad was full of Greek goodness, with olives and feta.
And another thing: The hotel’s new owners have tweaked the parma recipe. The price remains at $24, but there’s a new napoli sauce, different ham and chicken breast from Bannockburn. Fries have replaced the chunky chips. Can they replicate the high standard?
Parma: 15/20; chips: 10/10; salad: 8/10; other: 8/10
Cnr Church and Swan streets, Richmond
THE Swan has sentimental value to me. In the late 1990s while at university, I used to go there all the time — and have a parma, of course. All these years later, what was the parma like? Was it still great? Much to my relief, it was excellent. The parma ($21) was very fresh and had fantastic crispy and crunchy sides, which I love. The thickness of the chicken was spot on.
The chips were an unexpected highlight — not just straight out of the freezer, it appeared thought had actually gone into cooking the chips. As a former long-time Richmond resident it’s fantastic to see Swan St booming, but don’t discount the venues that have been there forever, like The Swan.
And another thing: The Swan is the perfect place to watch some sport over a parma
Parma: 18/20; chips: 9/10; salad: 6/10; other: 8/10
333 Smith St, Fitzroy
WITNESS the thickness. This schnitzel wanted to party — and party it did. In my mouth. This chicken was thick enough to be taken seriously but not so horizontally plump that one questioned how it was possible. The napoli sauce danced around the crumbing and dove right into the pavlova layers that make a parma the wonderful, deceptively eccentric pub staple that it is. Served on a mahogany chopping board, the presentation was A1. The Birmy is famous for its pillowy chips. The salad was lively and service impeccable. At $21, the Parma is more than filling and represents adequate, if not thrifty, value for money. On Tuesday the price drops by more than half to $10 and that’s the time you can beat the system and make the night before Hump Day a midweek mouth-party.
And another thing: The Workshop is the room you want to be in. There are many screens to watch sport, you can play darts and meticulously plan out the rest of your life with a stomach full of cooked bird. Napoli-on.
Parma: 16/20; salad: 8/10; chips: 8/10; other: 8/10
336 Pakington St, Newtown
IT’S parma heaven at the Cremorne, a short stroll
from Geelong’s home of footy at Simonds Stadium. The Cremorne’s traditional parmagianas ($20 for lunch, $24 for dinner) reliably comprise huge, good-quality, thick chicken schnitzels. They’re topped with a generous amount of ham, cheese and tomato sauce. The obligatory chips on the side and under the parma don’t disappoint — chunky, fresh and plenty of them. The parmas come served with mixed leaves, cucumber and tomato, though let’s be frank, salad’s not the main attraction here.
And another thing: On Monday and Tuesday nights parma connoisseurs can broaden their horizons with a dozen variations priced from a tasty $13.90 to $19.50 (for The Double). There’s also traditional, Mexican, Greek, margherita, Hawaiian, bolognaise, reefer, Aussie, Spanish, a plain schnitzel with a choice of sauces, as well as an eggplant option for vegos.
Parma: 18/20; chips: 8/10; salad: 7/10; |other: 7/10
402 Learmonth St, Buninyong
The Crown Hotel is the oldest continually licensed hotel in regional Victoria. Its dining room had a renovation about two years ago, but has maintained a rustic charm. It was a chilly day, but we sat in a covered-in deck area. And the Crown Hotel puts on a mighty fine parma ($24.50). It took about 20 minutes to arrive on a quiet day but you could taste the freshness. The crumbed chicken breast fillet sat under thick, double-smoked ham. The napoli sauce was packed full of tomatoes and there was a good spread of melty cheese. The crumbing could have been a bit lighter though. As well, the chicken sat on top of the solid pub chips, well-cooked, well-seasoned
and crunchy, about 30 in all. As with the parma, the salad was super fresh, consisting of mixed lettuce, cherry tomatoes, onion and carrot.
And another thing: There are nine different types of parma. The Crown has even dished up a quad stack to one particularly hungry diner.
Parma: 16/20; chips: 7/10; salad: 8/10; other: 8/10
12 Watton St, Werribee
THE menu at The Park Hotel changes each season but there’s one constant — the chicken parma with its double smoked ham, mozzarella, house salad, and beer battered fries for $23. The thick, juicy parma is well-crumbed and smothered — to just the right degree — with its tomatoey, hammy, cheesy topping. It’s one of the more usual offerings on the innovative Park Hotel menu but it hits the lofty goals the owners have set for their meals. The house salad accompanying the hefty-sized parma is satisfyingly crunchy and the seasoned fries top off a great meal. The atmosphere at the Park
is laidback and relaxed, perfect for lingering over with friends while you dine and sample some of the astonishing array of craft beers stocked.
And another thing: Make a night of it and enjoy live music on Thursday, Friday and Saturday, or test your brain cells with trivia on Wednesday night.
Parma: 17/20; chips: 8/10; salad: 7/10; other: 8/10
25 Lt Bourke St, Melbourne
NINE years ago, Melbourne’s first — and only — parma-focused bistro opened its doors, and Mrs Parmas still turns out a mighty fine version of the classic (and the not-so-classic). A 230g piece of chicken breast fashioned into a thin-ish schnitzel comes coated in a rustic crumb mix, pan fried golden and crisp. Great mozzarella speckled tan under a hot grill tops oregano-heavy napoli that errs on the side of sweet. Excellent ham off the bone and a sprinkling of parsley to finish show this kitchen knows what’s what. Bowls of chips (good) and chopped lettuce salad (fine) complete this hearty package (original, $25.50).
And another thing: The Parma’Geddon is billed as “Melbourne’s hottest parma”, thanks to a four-chilli super-firey sauce.
Parma: 17/20; chips: 8/10; salad: 7/10; other: 8/10
82 High St, Prahran
PRAWN and papaya salad and pork jowl sliders keep the trendy happy, but it’s the classic parma at this pub that flies out of the kitchen — about 300 are ordered each week to make it the best-selling menu item alongside the steak. For $23, you get top-notch chicken breast in a substantial panko crust, topped with a generous ratio of sauce and molten mozzarella. Beer-battered chips are on the side and crunchy. The salad is simple but good, with leaves in a light vinaigrette. Art Deco heritage and a spunky beer garden seal the deal. The winner of the pub’s footy-tipping comp is happily enjoying his first prize — a parma a week for a year.
And another thing: Be like a local on Tuesdays and Wednesdays with $15 parmas.
Parma: 16/20; chips: 8/10; salad: 8/10; other: 8/10
5115 Northern Highway, Tooborac
THE bar mats tout this as “an old-fashioned pub with modern ideas”. The heritage-listed hotel is not immediately fancy but it exudes warmth. Sitting in the sun beside the hotel, I devoured the hand-crumbed chicken breast topped with ham, napoli sauce and mozzarella cheese ($24). The Tooborac puts a twist on the traditional parma, adding shredded ham. It was an almost perfect combination of parma and pizza. The chips — partly under the parma (yikes) — were overly crunchy and unseasoned. Salt and pepper shakers were brought to the table in converted stubbies. A nice touch. The salad came in a bowl — amazing dressing, cucumber, mixed lettuce, capsicum, tomato, grated carrot and onion. But I could have done with a tad more. Service was quick. I only wish I hadn’t discovered the expansive beer garden until I was almost leaving.
And another thing: There’s a $15 parma night on Thursdays with 11 different types of parma.
Parma: 16/20; chips: 6.5/10; salad: 8.5/10; other: 9/10
378 La Trobe Terrace, Newtown
YOU had me at drive-through parmigiana. At Parmi Bandit, ring ahead and order one of 13 varieties of parma before driving up to a window to collect your dinner in a cardboard tray. I was pretty sceptical but am now a convert. The Parmi Bandit has restored my faith in the traditional chicken schnitzel parma. And at $15, it is the cheapest of our favourites. The chips were A-class — about 30 fat slabs of salty, crunchy goodness — and the parma was tasty. I tucked into mine in the car. My husband left his in the box for 30 minutes and, while it had started to go a bit soggy, it still tasted great. The salad — in a separate plastic container, with another container for dressing — was small. But it had all the elements — mixed lettuce, cucumber, capsicum, onion and tomato. Our parmas were ready, fresh and hot when we arrived 30 minutes after ordering. I’m not convinced sitting in the car to eat a parma with plastic utensils is the ultimate way to go, but it was still great.
And another thing: They home deliver for
a fee in the local Geelong area.
Parma: 16/20; chips: 9.5/10; salad: 7/10; other: 7/10
NUMERO UNO PIZZA AND PASTA, ALTONA
20 Pier St, Altona
NUMERO Uno not-so-humbly boasts it has the best parma in Altona. The succulent schnitzel of chicken is coated to the edge with a rich tomato sauce and stringy mozzarella, but doesn’t have ham. The mound of chunky chips stayed crunchy until the last bite, even those under the parma. It’s well worth the $17.50 price tag. This is more a cheap and cheerful, takeaway pizza and pasta joint than a refined dining atmosphere, but situated opposite the park and beach on Altona’s main street it has beaut views and is perfect for nights when you just can’t face cooking.
And another thing: Special after 7pm Sunday- Thursday (dine in only), $17.50 chicken or veal parma with choice of Carlton Draught, Carlton Cold, Victoria Bitter, glass of house red or white wine.
Parma: 17/20; chips: 7/10; salad: 7/10; other: 7/10
1 Bridge Rd, Barwon Heads
WITH views over the Barwon River, and the beach, out to the Point Lonsdale Lighthouse, this iconic hotel isn’t just in a great spot, it delivers a pretty good parma, too. At $24.90, the parma did lose points for being plonked on top of the chips, but it was a perfect size and tasted great. The crumbed chicken breast had the right mix of ham, napoli sauce and grilled mozzarella cheese for an amazing taste, despite a bit of sogginess on the bottom. The chips were hot, crunchy and cooked to perfection, but the salad was average. The hotel isn’t fancy, but is in a magical spot, with fast and efficient service, along with killer garlic bread.
And another thing: Parma nights are Monday and Thursday from 6-8.30pm, with a traditional parma and two special offerings each week for $12.90. Parma nights stop for summer from December 18 to February.
Parma: 15/20; chips: 9/10; salad: 6/10; other: 8/10
Bay St, Port Melbourne
YOU can get a normal parma at The Exchange in Port Melbourne, but sometimes less is better. The petite parma ($21) is a perfect size, and I guarantee you will leave satisfied. The thickness of the chicken is perfect and it’s freshly cooked. While the side salad isn’t anything to write home about, for me that doesn’t matter. A good parma is about decent chicken, ham and cheese all put together — The Exchange delivers on this. One positive is that it’s a great local pub. Unlike some inner-city pubs that have gone too over the top with their surroundings and menu, The Exchange still feels very authentic.
And another thing: There is a regular-sized parma for $26.50. It’s so big two people could probably share it.
Parma: 17/20; chips: 7/10; salad: 6/10; other: 8/10
191 Nicholson St, Abbotsford
THIS 150-year-old backstreet beauty has locals making a beeline for what might well be Melbourne’s largest parma, a gigantic, crisp-crumbed number that’s all cheesy crunch ($22). Actually, there’s one larger — the extra large that’s made for “sharing or showing off”. The hand-beaten chicken breast under a good crumb that held firm comes with a good sauce with a touch of tomatoey sweetness. Lots of grill-tanned mozzarella covers the lot. Char-burnished bacon atop is a non-traditional stand-in for ham, adding a lovely smokiness. Points off for the undressed salad and serving the parma on the excellent beer-battered chips that quickly lost their crunch.
And another thing: Ask for the wi-fi password
Parma: 17/20; chips: 6.5/10; salad: 7.5/10; other: 7/10
62 Main St, Mornington
SIT in the sun on the deck of the Bay Hotel and watch Mornington’s Main St life go by and life will seem pretty sweet with a parma. A thick, tender fillet of chicken comes covered with a generous amount of golden, bubbling cheese. Though the crumb could be crunchier and the sauce is fine, if not particularly memorable, the tomato and leaf salad is perfectly dressed. Great beer-battered chips are unfortunately served under the parma so lose their crunch and at $27 this is priced at the high end of the spectrum, but it is totally tasty and well executed.
And another thing: Parma Wednesdays serve up seven topping choices for $15.
Parma: 16.5/20; chips: 6/10; salad: 7.5/10; other: 7/10
238 Lennox St, Richmond
THE London Tavern is an old-style pub with a huge beer garden, perfect for footy or cricket fans looking for a quick bite or pint before the game. And with the area boasting arguably more pubs per square metre than anywhere in Melbourne, the pressure is on to produce on the parma front. For $22, the London serves a prompt, healthy-sized, juicy slab of bird with more than generous thickness, but elects not to include the traditional layer of ham, which makes a parma a parma. As a result the meal feels a little over-sauced, particularly when the cheese does not span the entire breadth But piping hot, crispy chips underneath and a better-than-average side of garden and pasta salad help redeem the situation.
And another thing: The venue runs a very reasonably priced $10 parma night on Mondays.
Parma: 14/20; chips: 8/10; salad: 7/10; other: 8/10
10 Brighton Rd, St Kilda East
THE “Nostalgic” parma blends restaurant smarts with home-style comfort food. It’s one of five varieties, all using a thick slab of quality free-range chook from Hazeldene’s. The classic has a substantial panko crumb, which stays crunchy despite the heat from the hat of double-smoked Virginia leg ham, mozzarella and sauce bursting with San Marzano tomatoes. The kitchen is passionate about serving chips on the side to avoid pulpy potatoes.
And another thing: Wednesday night is $15 parmas and trivia night. Change it up with a “Calabrian” with salami instead of ham or a “Fresca” with salsa, fior de latte and semi-dried tomato.
Parma: 16/20; chips: 8/10; salad: 4/10; other: 8/10
HONOURABLE MENTIONS
The Woodlands Hotel in Coburg for its whimsical dining room and focus on Victorian craft beers.
The Shamrock Hotel in Echuca for its 101 parmas, including its sweet variety.
The Ocean Grove Hotel where you can eat parma while the kids play on trampolines.
The Gem Hotel in Collingwood for the fabulous inclusion of jalapeños.
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