Head north up Sydney Rd for a taste of the Deep South

HEAD north for a taste of the Deep South. Bluestone American BBQ is a breath of fresh air smack-bang in the middle of Coburg’s main shopping strip.

American Bluestone BBQ pit master and managing director Alvaro Malel Trevisnaut with the smoker that churns out the Coburg restaurant’s meats. Picture: Andrew Tauber

FOR all the hipsterfication taking place in Melbourne’s northern suburbs, gentrification’s march up Sydney Rd has hardly set a cracking pace. But with the recent arrival of Bluestone American BBQ smack-bang in Coburg’s main shopping drag, that might have changed.

For where there’s smoke — and Pentridge Pale Ale — there’s bound to be a quorum of cool. And judging by this lunch, filled with families, it’s a welcome addition to an area normally famous for its cheese pies and kebabs.

Bluestone American BBQ dining room. Picture: Andrew Tauber

There’s blues on the stereo, piles of wood in the window and a smoker in all its glory taking pride of place at the front of the dining room.

FOOD

Slide open the front door and the smell of smoke and meat sets the scene. While American BBQ makes it on to the sign hanging over the door, owner Al Malel takes a rather more worldly approach to low-and-slow than focusing exclusively on the Southern US styles that inform the menu at other barbecue joints.

The pulled pork, for instance, comes with a sharp lime mojo and a dollop of sour cream for a Cuban take on this now oft-seen meat ($15.90) while the signature beef ribs are served with a South American chimichurri sauce ($25.90).

Bluestone American BBQ’s buttermilk chicken. Picture: Andrew Tauber

Chicken chops, smoked over applewood and served under a sticky sweet glaze are packed with flavour ($9.90), while the pork sausage, studded with cheese chunks, is likewise elegantly smoky and deeply meaty. The brisket — a test of any barbecue pitmaster — is fine, though the smoky nuance that characterises the best was lost by covering the lot in the house gravy ($19.90).

Lamb is a meat not often seen in barbecue, but here it comes rosemary rubbed, smoked and pulled, and is a pretty good addition to this world of meat.

Bluestone American BBQ’s yearling beef short rib. Picture: Andrew Tauber

Chicken tenders with creole-seasoned crunch are certainly tasty, but probably not the Southern fried chicken we’ve come to know (and love) elsewhere.

It’s not all meat — the tangy slaw, a red cabbage pickled number — adds welcome sharpness to the meal, while the ground grits — a soft, cheesy polenta mix — is decadently good sometimes food ($8.90). See also: the banoffee pie made with dulce de leche and almonds ($12).

DRINK

Keeping things nicely in the hood, there’s Brunswick Bitter on tap ($8.50 schooner) and Coburg Lager is part of a dozen-deep fridge of beers, with a few whites and reds offered by the glass ($9) and bottle (around $40).

Bluestone American BBQ’s sausages with grits. Picture: Andrew Tauber

SERVICE

This is a husband-and-wife tag team, with Amanda taking care of the floor in warmly welcoming style. It’s fast and friendly.

X FACTOR

It’s lo-fi all the way, with the room simply adorned with lights strung from the roof like a backyard barbie.

BANG FOR YOUR BUCK

The pitmaster packs — $27.50/$37.50/$48.50 a head — are a great way to try the menu and are generously piled high with meats (with enough for takeaway leftovers).

VERDICT

While some dishes are a work in progress, low-and-slow barbecue is the coolest thing to happen to Coburg since Tex Perkins opened the Post Office Hotel.

Bluestone American BBQ’s pit master and managing director Alvaro Malel Trevisnaut with the restaurant’s smoker. Picture: Andrew Tauber

BLUESTONE AMERICAN BBQ

470 Sydney Rd, Coburg. Phone: [phone]

FOOD Barbecue

HOURS Tues-Thurs from 5pm; Fri-Sun from noon

CHEF Al Malel

BOOKINGS Yes

TIME BETWEEN ORDERING AND EATING 5 mins

PERFECT FOR A worldly meat feast

DESTINATION DISH Sausages and grits

NOISE LEVEL Buzzy

ONLINE bluestoneamericanbbq.com

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