Fury as Parks Victoria bans rock climbing after secret surveys

The Victorian government is set to ban rock climbing at Australia’s most significant site after a four-year secretive process to probe cultural heritage.

Rock climbing at the world famous Mt Arapiles will be gutted under Labor following secretive cultural heritage investigations. Picture: Jason Edwards

Rock climbing at the world famous Mt Arapiles in Victoria will be gutted under Labor after Parks Victoria cited secretive cultural heritage investigations as the driving force behind the decision.

The site is one of the world’s most significant rock climbing areas and arguably Australia’s nursery for the pursuit.

Up to half of all routes are predicted to be shut.

The bans will shatter the local Natimuk community, diminish global visitation and lead to the closure of the iconic Pines campground that for decades has been the quirky heartland of climbing.

The Victorian government dropped the news to climbers on the eve of the Melbourne Cup and the US elections amid a looming revolt that will test Parks Victoria’s authority and credibility.

Climbers have condemned the move after a process that has created a broad and growing political backlash.

Climbers say the move would rip out ‘the literal beating heart of climbing in Australia’. Picture: Jason Edwards

The move comes after Premier Jacinta Allan promised only three months ago that she would not “padlock” Victoria’s state forests.

In a statement in August as Ms Allan said: “As Premier, and as a proud country Victorian, I will never put a padlock on our public forest,” she said.

“I know there are some people who are worried about the future of our state’s forests. And I understand there needs to be a balance. There are pockets that we need to protect, areas we must conserve.

“But, to me, the most important thing we can do for our bush is make sure it’s ­enjoyed.”

At the time, Ms Allan was asked to clarify whether some sections of currently open forest would be closed in parts, but she declined to expand her comments.

Last month, the state government confirmed new legislation would be brought in to create the new Wombat-Lerderderg National Park and Mount Buangor National Park, by November, which would section off pastes of the forest and close it for activities.

Opposition spokesman James Newbury said Ms Allan had mislead the public with her comments.

“Jacinta Allan has been caught talking out of both sides of her mouth again,” he said.

“Despite promising not to lock up our parkland, her government has been caught doing secret lock out deals. And within weeks, Labor has admitted they will be ramming new laws through parliament that lock up parks further. Jacinta Allan’s promises are worthless.”

There is also currently consultation being carried out on new park restrictions with the Central Highlands with the government not yet making clear on their plans for changes to access.

Premier Jacinta Allan previously said she would ‘never put a padlock on our public forest’. Picture: Mark Stewart

On Tuesday night a Victorian Government spokesperson said: “We want as many Victorians as possible to enjoy the great outdoors, which is why we’ve invested millions in campsite upgrades, four-wheel driving and biking trails and made sure duck hunting is here to stay.

“This is about giving certainty to Victorians - respecting the significance of these cultural heritage sites and giving climbers confidence with more than half of the rock-climbing areas open.

“Victorians will continue to enjoy a range of recreational activities in the new national parks including deer hunting, bush walking, camping, horse riding, four-wheel driving, dog walking, fishing and more.”

Climbers and environmentalists have always argued that cultural heritage should be protected but the selectiveness of the cutbacks and the lack of accountability has fuelled anger.

“It’s a wipe-out folks. The literal beating heart of climbing in Australia has been ripped out and discarded,’’ Save Grampians Climbing reported.

Save Grampians Climbing estimates that up to half of all routes at Mt Arapiles, about 340km northwest of Melbourne, will be closed.

Mt Arapiles, also known as Dyurrite, was heavily grazed and used as a former rifle range before climbers helped remediate much of the cliff-facing landscape.

Parks Victoria says the cultural heritage surveys found tens of thousands of artefacts, scarred trees and rock art.

The artefacts are likely to predominantly be stone chips.

The site is one of the world’s most significant rock climbing areas. Picture: Jason Edwards

Scar trees are ubiquitous in western Victoria, especially around lakes, rivers and swamps but rock art is much less common.

Much of the rock art is invisible to the naked eye. The survey work was done in conjunction with the local Barengi Gadjin Land Council.

Parks Victoria said: “Between November 2020 and February 2023, Parks Victoria with the support of the Barengi Gadjin Land Council conducted archaeological and environmental surveys at Dyurrite (Mount Arapiles) and Mitre Rock in the Dyurrite Cultural Landscape (Mount Arapiles Tooan State Park).

“These surveys were intended to record cultural heritage, regionally significant threatened plants and investigate the impacts of recreational activities on this rich cultural and environmental landscape.

“The study’s specific focus was climbing areas identified through the Crag – a global online database of climbing and bouldering areas – and the informal trail network that has been created linking climbing areas to each other and to the formal track network.

“Located on the sandstone escarpments on the eastern side of Dyurrite (Mount Arapiles) and the sandstone escarpments of Mitre Rock, the study area included 153 climbing areas and more than 35 kilometres of informal walking tracks leading to, and between these climbing areas.”