Brighton newcomer St Martin’s has the smarts, feels and hangs of a stalwart
ST MARTIN’s might be a newcomer but has the smarts, feels and hangs of a stalwart restaurant. You’d feel at home here whether you’re a suit sealing a deal, a lady who lunches, or a tradie smashing a sanga.
Melbourne
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BY THE time you’re up to your third child, you know what you’re doing, right? Such is the case for husband and wife Jim Marinis and Mary-Jane Daffy.
St Martin’s is their third baby in the cafe world, opened in late October about six weeks after they welcomed their first real-life child, son Archie, in September.
It’s assured and polished, taking the best bits and lessons learned from their two previous ventures, Glovers Station in Elsternwick and Bentleigh’s Little Tommy Tucker before it.
In the bit of Brighton near Gardenvale station, this isn’t just another new cafe at the base of a just-sprouted apartment block. It boasts the look and feel of a more established space, and the fact the developers approached them to set up shop speaks volumes.
The couple’s long-time executive chef and business partner Brett Hobbs (ex-The Woods of Windsor, The Millswyn and Maze) returns with a honed all-day breakfast and bistro-leaning lunch menu that suits most dining occasions.
FOOD
Don’t get put off by cheffy terms. The menu — despite its spelling errors — is accessible and interest-packed without resorting to gimmickry.
The breakfast take on surf ‘n’ turf
($22) is fast becoming a signature dish. It teams a disc of fork-tender oyster blade steak, a well-seasoned fish croquette and salardaise potato (a posh potato stack), all anointed in chilli caramel with two fried eggs and toast.
The chia pudding ($16) is another flavour-packed dish, with compressed watermelon, strawberries and coconut yoghurt making brilliant bedfellows.
Greeting diners is a front display cabinet filled with gorgeous sweet treats made off-site by three suppliers, including former Vue de Monde pastry chef Anthony Hart.
DRINKS
Richmond’s Clark St Coffee Roasters provides the caffeine; a lush orange-high blend for milk coffees ($4). Also get cold-pressed juices ($7.50), sparkling iced tea and milkshakes ($8).
A liquor license is pending.
SERVICE
Young, bubbly and engaging floor staff, well lead by Marinis, who charms all with delightful service.
X-FACTOR
The space is chic and curvy cool but instantly warm and welcoming, one of the best new cafe fit-outs of the year. You’d feel at home here whether you’re a suit sealing a deal, a lady who lunches, or a tradie smashing a sanga.
BANG FOR YOUR BUCK
A two-course lunch (snack and a main) for $25 on weekdays is a good proposition.
VERDICT
St Martin’s might be a newcomer but has the smarts, feels and hangs of a stalwart.
Faultless food that celebrates the seasons and winning service rounds out this welcome addition.
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