Bang Bang at the Rifle Club has the right ammunition

Bang Bang at the Rifle Club delivers delicious and bold pan-Asian dishes with French influence over several day and night menus. But is it the whole shebang?

Bang Bang at The Rifle Club, Elsternwick.

They first did it back in 2006 with Riverland bar in the bluestone vaults under Federation Square, now Richie Ludbrook and Dave Sharry have given new life to another historic hotspot. The hospo big guns, who have The Boatbuilder’s Yard at South Wharf, Pilgrim Bar at Fed Square and the Wye River General Store, have transformed the long-empty Caulfield Rifle Club in Elsternwick into Bang Bang at the Rifle Club.

Opened in February, it overlooks a pretty plaza and park next to Elsternwick station,
also tarted up under the site’s $2.5 million renovation in conjunction with the State Government.

Chef Matthew Dunbar (ex-Longrain) leads the kitchen, delivering bold pan-Asian dishes with French influence over several day and night menus, all ambitiously from 6am until well into the night.

Bang Bang at The Rifle Club, Elsternwick.

FOOD

Of an evening, open with pork scratchings ($5), unctuous strips of fried naughtiness tempered with a green chilli and lime sauce.

The salty snacks continue with crowd-pleasing chicken ribs ($15) encased in a super-crunchy spicy batter with a punchy house-made sriracha for dipping.

Kale stir-fried with mushrooms ($12.50) in a lush broth gives good flavour and greenery, while larger dishes extend to Cape Grim beef short ribs ($55), the rich meat an engaging match for the fragrant broth bursting with sharp hits of wild ginger and holy basil.

Kids are well looked after, with the lamb bao burger with fries ($8) sure to appease junior diners.

Desserts provide a good full stop, particularly the sticky black rice ($13, right). It’s glossy and nourishing, heaped with a sweet pandan cream, mango segments and a refreshing coconut sorbet.

DRINK

Cool cocktails go hand-in-hand with the food, emboldened with herbs and aromatics from the kitchen, such as Kaffir lime leaves and galangal in the margarita ($18). However, stingy pours/too much ice in the Yuzu ($16) and the Sloe Gin Sour ($15) deter us from ordering round two.

Get eight beers by the tap and a solid wine list, again well suited to the menu. Sparkling water is $2 for a bottomless glass and coffee is from Seven Seeds.

Bang Bang at The Rifle Club, Elsternwick.

SERVICE

The floor team is strong in numbers, but weak on intuition. We’re served by at least five staffers who fail to pick up the baton from the one before. We’re advised to order steamed rice with a main dish, but that rice lobs five minutes later with entrees. No offers to change dirty plates between courses. Our booking, too, was stuffed up.

X FACTOR

Spunky fitout melds exposed brick, timber and concrete accented with lavish hanging greenery. With seating for 60 in the front bar area and back dining room, there’s room for 80 more in outdoor areas overlooking the park.

Bang Bang at The Rifle Club, Elsternwick.

BANG FOR YOUR BUCK

A few gougers — like the tide out on the cocktails — didn’t impress.

VERDICT

The kitchen is firing, the floor less so, but with time, hopefully, it will be the whole shebang.

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BANG BANG AT THE RIFLE CLUB

294 Glenhuntly Rd, Elsternwick

8692 2680

FOOD Asian

HOURS Daily 6am-late

CHEF Matthew Dunbar

BOOKINGS Yes

TIME BETWEEN ORDERING AND EATING Five minutes

PERFECT FOR Cruisy catch-ups

DESTINATION DISH Crispy chicken ribs

NOISE LEVEL Hectic at the front bar

ONLINE bangbang.com.au