Cook what is right in front of you, is what Nick Holloway’s mum taught him, and It’s these words that go with him early every Friday morning to the Tropical North’s favourite market, Rusty’s in Grafton Street, Cairns.
If you want to put your finger on the pulse of the vibrant regional food scene, this is the place to start.
Amidst the bustle of market business, you’ll find chefs like Holloway, casting a seasoned eye over the produce, ready to stock up for his award-winning restaurant Nu Nu at Palm Cove.
Fringed by palm trees and perched right on the beachfront against the usually placid waters of the Coral Sea, Nu Nu is a sort of foodciro heaven where line-caught reef fish mixes it up with cassava and taro crisps and rainforest honeycomb.
Nick’s mantra is local, seasonal and organic where possible, and he shops carefully at Rusty’s seeking only the best for his kitchen.
This 30-year-old market boasts 180 plus stalls and offers everything from clothing, jewellery and bric-a-brac to fresh bread, but it’s the fruit and vegetable sellers who congregate around the Grafton Street entrance which makes it exceptional.
It’s certainly an early bird that catches the worm here. The market starts at 5am on Friday brimming with smaller producers from the nearby Atherton Tablelands and as far south as the Cassowary Coast centres of Innisfail and South Johnstone.
“I have great relationships with stall holders and have built up trust over a long time,” says Nick. “It took me 10 years to get on a list of 15 people for durian, and now I share the top spot with one other person. I buy two a week at $100 a durian.
“Going to Rusty’s is an important ritual, and the kids love to come in the van as a rite of passage. First I have a stroll around and a coffee while I notice any changes and remember what should be coming into season soon.”
“There are so many interesting tropical fruits and vegetables, but they often are available in smaller quantities on the table and are easily overlooked. Last week I saw ice cream beans which I grabbed because they have a spongy, sweet texture in the middle.”
Holloway says the sharing of knowledge is paramount here and “How are you going to cook that?” is a frequent question.
“Rusty’s gives you an insight into how other cuisines prepare food. It’s all about real people doing real cooking in their own homes,” he says.
NICK’S TIPS FOR RUSTY’S
• Allow two hours for a visit and something to eat, such as a banh mi and a coffee from Billy’s.
• Park nearby, so you don’t have to walk far to put your many purchases in the car. Make sure you have a cooler bag and Esky in the car.
• Take a two-tiered trolley, so nothing gets squashed. You are buying fruit and vegetables at their most delicious and ripe so they are often delicate and fragile, not bred for durability like those at the supermarket.
• Work in zig-zag pattern, so you don’t miss anything.
• Always turn up hungry.
• Be open to what the market has for you. The worst plan is to open a cookbook and say I want to make this and then try to find the ingredients at the market. The best plan is go to the market to discover something awesome and then find a recipe using it.
GETTING THERE
Rusty’s Market is open Friday and Saturday, 5am-6pm, and Sundays, 5am-3pm. Two hours free parking is available in Rusty’s carpark , above the centre. See rustysmarkets.com.au
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