Studio Amaro restaurant review 2023: Kara Monssen visits Chapel Steet’s new Italian restaurant

There are plenty of spots to get a bowl of pasta and a negroni along Chapel St — but nothing resembles what this new Italian eatery is dishing up.

Studio Amaro is the first foray into Italian food by the Commune Group — but has the move paid off? Picture: Jana Langhorst

Burrata, raw kingfish or tuna and wood-fired anything.

Eating at Melbourne restaurants is becoming an uninspired game of food bingo.

Are we sick of playing yet?

I love all of the above, each equally delicious and popular in their own right.

But there’s just so much “sameness” about, it’s a little, well, predictable.

Not Studio Amaro’s tuna carpaccio ($25)— that defied expectations.

Gelatinous rosy, tomato-like slips are slicked in a smoky-sweet heirloom oil joined by punchy Italian faves basil, fried capers and black olive.

It’s singing a powerful anthem of Italian goodness with passion and creativity to be rivalled.

And it’s not just seen in the tuna.

Come for the snacks and drinks, stay for the vibe. Picture: Jana Langhorst

You’ll see it in that juicy roast chook powered by lemon and squiggly hot pickles.

Or that marvellously crimpy mafaldine glossed in a garlicky lobster and prawn bisque, or sour cherry negroni sinking you further into your chair with every sip.

And look, there’s amaro. Lots of it, plus tunes.

Maybe this was the plot twist the Commune Group needed after 11 years in the game.

A change of direction couldn’t hurt with seven mod-Asian restaurants under its belt.

You’ll find the two-level Studio Amaro on Chapel St, near High, within earshot of its sister venues Hanoi Hannah, Tokyo Tina and Firebird.

The strip was starved of modern Italian eats, and in a two-for-one deal, scored another “after-dinner hang” with its underground listening bar.

There’s a bit of HER Bar meets Connie’s Diner vibe to this combo.

The tuna carppacio celebrates the best of Italy on a plate. Picture: Jana Langhorst

I’m sure it’ll be a Gen Z magnet, if it isn’t already, though with ex-Hannah Hanoi Vol II chef Daniel Migliaccio doing a solid on the pans, it wouldn’t surprise me if it lured an older crowd out to play.

Especially with head bartender Marcus Lubiato’s grown-up drinks list saluting the bittersweet aperitif.

Here you can try the works: shots of Averna, Campari or Fernet Branca, a “short” negroni, alongside full-sized classics with smart Italo twists; a martini made with parmesan fat-washed gin and a zippy limoncello margarita.

Though the most dangerously affordable drinking comes from $35 half-litre (4 glasses) carafes of table wine, poured from barrels supplied by MDI Wines.

Perhaps you’ll wash down some juicy fruited refosco, or sip skinsy friulano while swiping warm focaccia hunks into whipped ricotta and lemon oil.

Studio Amaro is a moody boozer. Picture: Julia Sansone

Rome wasn’t built in a day and neither was this bread ($8); tried and tested over six months to achieve peak fluffy squashiness with incredible flavour.

It makes the perfect mop for that mafaldine seafood bisque ($38) as well as lemony chicken juices ($36), a smoke-kissed, half-chicken ruffled in a knockout black garlic salmoriglio sauce.

There were two things I didn’t rate: that deep-fried mozzarella, basil and anchovy sandwich ($9) served as a sole breadcrumbed jaffle should have worked in theory, but in practice gave basil fish finger vibes. Not for me.

And the hazelnut tartufo ($16); a frozen take on the Fererro Rocher that was a little underwhelming.

From the outset, Studio Amaro may seem like it’s pushing the same tired eats, but if you give it a chance it’s more.

There’s cooking with thought, depth of flavour, flair and truly delicious moments.

And if that’s the prize, what a game worth playing.