Short bites: Dan Stock with Melbourne’s food news
A Melbourne revival continues with a Richmond bar born out of lockdown. Dan Stock brings you the new openings and latest food news.
Food
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“What did you do in the lockdown?” has become Melbourne’s version of the wartime classic poster.
Poppy Cherry, founder of the Maison Burlesque dancing school, can answer: “Open a burlesque bar.”
“I’d had my eye on the space that had been vacant for a couple of years a few doors down (from the school), so thought, let’s move the school plus open a bar for performances,” she says.
“I didn’t want to have sat here for a year, I wanted to come out of lockdown with something to show for it, something new. It’s something I’ve wanted to do for 10 years or more.”
Cherry roped in students past and present to help her paint, wallpaper and otherwise transform what was once Stephanie Alexander’s Richmond Hill Café and Larder on Bridge Rd into Bar Pigalle. The new stage, in fact, is found on what was the cafe’s acclaimed walk-in Cheese Room.
Named after the Pigalle arts precinct in Paris — home to the Moulin Rouge — Cherry says the venue is inspired by “old Paris and New Orleans” with dinner and drinks and burlesque shows on Friday and Saturday nights, with extended hours to follow Monday through Thursday next month.
A pioneer of the Melbourne burlesque revival, along with MCing the Saturday night shows that feature such burlesque artists as Maple Rose, Ruby Slippers and Velma Vouloir, Cherry runs classes at the dance school now found above the bar.
A vegan/vego/gluten free-friendly menu of Spanish, French and Italian influenced “tapas” comes thanks to chefs Fhred Erick Batalona and Tania Murdocco — and takes care of the dinner, while Roy Das Neves’ signature cocktails as flamboyant as the show get the party started.
“Burlesque is such a sumptuous, inclusive and empowering art form, it has been our dream to give it a home in Melbourne,” Cherry says.
Bar Pigale at Maison Burlesque, 48-50 Bridge Rd Richmond.
For bookings: barpigalle.com.au
SMALL BITES
Chef-restaurateur Clinton McIverof Armadale’sAmaru is opening a wine bar a couple of doors down High St. Appellation will have a focus on grower Champagnes, boutique Victorian producers and lesser-known international varietals on the list created by sommelier Jenna Phillipott. McIver and head chef Steven Harry (ex-Cumulus Inc) will deliver a menu of snack-friendly bites based on the opening act of Amaru’s acclaimed degustation menu. Appellation is scheduled to open in April at 1160 High St, Armadale.
Westfield Southland will be the site of Melbourne’s first Cinnabon store. The US bakery chain famous for its cinnamon scrolls will fire up the ovens Wednesday for the first cinnamon, chocolate and caramel-pecan scrolls, baked stix and cinnabon bites.
Chef David Green (ex-Lake House) has put a short-lived stint at Port Melbourne’s Dakota behind him and has joined Richard Maisano in the kitchen at Carlton’s Masani, a restaurant that’s held court on Drummond St since 1983. The duo’s new autumn menu features such dishes as crumbed Port Phillip sardines with eggplant puree, wallaby with porcini pasta, and Yarra Valley quail with cotechino.
Around the corner and up a few floors, Carlton’s Johnny’s Green Room, the rooftop bar above the King & Godfree complex, is serving up $10 pizzas every Monday from noon until late. Head chef Matteo Toffano tops 72-hour fermented dough with such ingredients as calabrese salami and fior di latte (Nu’pipi), asparagus, zucchini and parmigiana (Verde) and olives, anchovies and capers (Puttanesca). johnnysgreenroom.com
Tom Sarafian is keeping busy after the closure of Bar Saracen as along with his three-month residency at Little Andorra, he’s heading to Port Melbourne’s Starward whisky warehouse for a long weekend Sunday session. A welcome whisky cocktail will be served before Sarafian fires up the BBQ for a Middle Eastern-style feast. Noon or 6pm, Sunday. Tickets $70 (plus booking fee) via eventbrite.com.au
TOP CHEF SPLITS STATE
Pt Leo Estate culinary director Phil Wood has announced he’ll leave the venue and will return to Sydney for family reasons.
“We tried to be good Victorians, but last year really took its toll, not being able to see friends and family. The situation is still so uncertain (with border closures), it’s hard to be apart from family,” he said.
Wood moved to the Mornington Peninsula from Sydney in 2017 to lead the kitchen at the estate that along with its sculpture park, winery and cellar door, features two dining options — the bustling Pt Leo restaurant and a refined 45-seat fine diner called Laura.
It was a gamble that paid off for the chef who was Neil Perry’s longtime right-hand man, with Pt Leo being named the No. 1 restaurant in the state in the 2018 delicious.100.
“The Peninsula is a remarkable part of Australia, and I will miss the amazing producers, growers and winemakers I have met,” he said, adding he was proud to be leaving the dining destination in such capable hands, with Ainslie Lubbock running service, Andrew Murch leading the wine program and new sous chef Joseph Espuga in the kitchen.
“Things are good, the team’s great and service is firing. It’s been a great reopening (since November).”
Wood will cook his last meal at Pt Leo on March 28.
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