Rick’s Place Kensington on brink of closure due to Covid, staff shortages

After a turbulent two years of Covid-forced closures and staff shortages, Melbourne’s small restaurant owners are facing more challenges this summer.

The cost-of-living crunch is being felt widely across Melbourne restaurants.

Not only are inner-city venues feeling the pinch but new and outer suburban eateries have also

been hit with widespread staff shortages, soaring produce costs and reduced customer demand.

Rick’s Place, run by Rick and Tracy Sciberras, opened in Kensington in late 2019 just months before the first Covid wave and has faced problems ever since.

“Owning a restaurant is something I’ve wanted to do for quite some time but it’s been a hell of a slog,” Sciberras said.

Staff shortages and soaring produce prices have crippled his Macaulay Rd restaurant over the past few months, with Sciberras no longer able to absorb the costs.

“I’ve tried to keep the food accessible – people are faced with rising fuel prices, interest rates and the cost of living has gone up substantially for everyone,” he said.

First-time restaurant owner Rick Sciberras has copped a ban run of Covid-forced closures and the cost of living pinch— pushing him to the brink of closure. Picture: Tony Gough

“The price of porterhouse steak has doubled since 2019 … green beans went up to as high as $25 per kilogram and at one point an (iceberg) lettuce went up to $11.

“We have been absorbing the costs but now I’ll have to come up with another menu.”

Rick’s Place is known locally for its vast food offering – everything from pastas and risottos, surf and turf and brunch available, with mains costing between $25 and $30.

Sciberras fears newer “mum and dad” run neighbourhood restaurants will be forced to close as the hip pocket tightened. “I’ll wait until January or February and make a decision (on the restaurant’s future) then,” he said.

In Werribee, Teddy Picker owner Jon Fordsaid he’d seen a decline in older customers going out for dinner.

“People with mortgages and families with young kids are being especially mindful with their spending,” Ford said. “That older demographic are more cautious and are coming out once a month instead of every two weeks.”

Ford said his Watton St business was also facing “unpredictable” produce prices.

“We’re still copping it now,” he said.

“You can’t bank on any prices staying the same. Prices are skyrocketing and some double week on week.”

Italian with a New York spin

Ronnie's has welcomed New York-expat Anthony Dispensa as its new executive chef. Picture: Tony Gough

New York expat Anthony Dispensa has cooked in some of the world’s best Italian restaurants, but strangely hasn’t eaten much of the cuisine since moving to Melbourne.

“I haven’t really had Italian food since I’ve been here,” Dispensa said.

“People have brought stuff (into the restaurant) they have made at home, like salumi, but I haven’t gone out for it.”

Dispensa made the permanent move Down Under five months ago after being poached by long-term chef mate Matthew Butcher.

He’s not only leading the kitchen at his CBD restaurant, Ronnie’s, but is also the group chef for Butcher’s hospitality business ETO Collective.

The New York-Italian joint opened last year in Guy Grossi’s former Osteria Merchant space, but like many city eateries failed to gain momentum post-Covid.

Dispensa wants to bring something new to Melbourne, gleaned from his time working in some of the world’s best kitchens such as London’s Dinner by Heston and most recently New York celebrity magnet Carbone.

He’s changed 90 per cent of Ronnie’s menu, adding more pastas inspired by fond childhood memories, while honouring that traditional New York-Italian restaurant experience.

“When the Italians moved to New York they put together a lot of cool things, but brought their own style of cuisine to Manhattan, and that’s what I’m doing here,” he said.

“I’m taking the simplicity that is Italian food with a little New York-style flair.”

Ronnie’s, Rialto Piazza, 525 Collins St, Melbourne