Reine restaurant review 2023: Kara Monssen visits Nomad Group’s new CBD venue

The Nomad Group’s biggest restaurant project to date is finally open— so is there more to Reine than just a gorgeous dining room?

Is the Nomad Group’s biggest project to date, Reine and La Rue, worth the hype?

Before you ask, yes she’s gorgeous.
Jaw-droppingly so.

Oh so holy, gothic-glam with a chiselled gold bricked physique.

And that’s just the outside. Inside, the ceiling reaches to heaven, fat marble pylons add grandeur, the original 1891 tiled floors are an ode to the past, and a mass of black suits and aprons wait in the wings before battle.

And what a fierce fight awaits in a city rich with grand old buildings and the Hemmes, Lucases and McConnells of the world whipping out the chequebooks to nab their next big money-spinner.

Landing a heritage gem is one thing, yet creating a space that’s warm and welcoming, as is buzzy and electric from day-to-night, is challenging even from seasoned players in these testing times.

You’ll need staff, good ones at that.

A maitre’d who intuitively knows when to fetch an extra slice of toast for the last of your fois gras, waiters who treat your routine bathroom trip like a royal procession.
A steadfast somm who can explain each overexaggerated idiosyncrasy of Napa Valley chardonnay, and perhaps steer you to a velvety cabernet franc for your steak.

Reine and bar La Rue have opened in the old ANZ Gothic Bank building.

Somehow, through a minefield of industry turmoil, Reine effortlessly nails the mission.

Not since Gimlet or Grill Americano has this city seen such a straight outta the gate strong opening, where the vibe matches the drinks, silver service and loud and proud French fare.

This is Al and Rebecca Yazbek’s second Melbourne venue – and most ambitious project to date – after opening a local outpost of their Sydney outfit, Nomad, in 2021.

However, Reine is (almost) a world away from olive oil ice cream sandwich territory.

Executive chef and now fully-fledged Melburnian Jacqui Challinor takes on tradition with oh-so indulgent French eats – taking former Nomad head chef Brendan Katich along for the ride.

There’s caviar and posh cheeses (sourced from Prahran’s Maker and Monger) to be trundled via trolley in Vue de monde fashion very soon.

Not sure the calamari is worthy of being a main.

Two bars flank either side of the ginormous 135-seater, one taking a traditional format for the walk-ins only with its own snack menu.

The other is a bookable oyster bar with shucked-to-order treats and fruits de mer where you can bathe in the leadlight glow through the room’s main natural light source.

In the arena there’s plenty to choose: hor’dourves (a panko-crumbed puck of confit rabbit anointed with a rippling green garlic ravigote, $14 each) or entrees such as the glossy fois gras and duck liver parfait ($28) set with a sauternes (sweet wine) jelly and an electric rhubarb jam, that I’m dubbing the PB and J for toffs.

Reine is oh so French.

Sweet leeks ($16), cooked to a tender slump over flame and glugged in a sweet vinaigrette, are a knockout.
I have this as a side to the grain-fed Blackmore wagyu +9 scotch ($120 for 200g) responsible for my out of body ‘how can a steak be this good’ experience.

Yes, there’s mustards and horseradish to seal the deal tableside but you can’t ignore the ultimate indulgence that is the pomme puree with bone marrow ($19).
Think buttery potato, a heady jus and bone marrow, pushing indulgence into overdrive.

More bayleaf ice-cream please.

Larger shares include the calamari ($48) – ten tiles of ultra tender squid wading in a zesty paris de cafe butter, though I’m not convinced this should be a main.

There was one teeny thing I didn’t like.

I squinted through every mouthful of that ruby grapefruit granita ($24).
Will it jolt you from your food-induced coma, sure, but more of that luscious bay leaf ice cream would even things out.

Maybe I’ll get the Jersey milk soft serve ($22) doused in a vibrant green Little Pier extra virgin olive oil next time.

But that’s it.

It’s early days but one day Reine will rule Melbourne’s restaurant scene soon enough.