The Victoria opens in Rutherglen after multi-million dollar renovation

The border town has received the greatest gift of all for the holidays — a new-look pub now helmed by an ex-Stokehouse chef.

Rutherglen has received the greatest gift of all for the holidays— a new-look pub dishing up the classics and Mediteranean fare.

Ruthernglen is home to a new-look pub after an ambitious, multi-million dollar revamp.

The Victoria Hotel poured first drinks last week, after an epic months-long renovation by publicans Kate and Matt Halpin.

“Our intention has been to respect the legacy of (The Victoria’s) history while creating a place to be enjoyed by many more generations,” Kate said.

“We hope we’ve created a place that instils a sense of community pride, and where locals and visitors feel equally at home.”

The Halpins told the Herald Sun in May they wanted to bring a slice of the city to the bush, while honouring the winemaking town’s traditions.

The Victoria Hotel has finally reopened in Rutherglen.

Rutherglen and Beechworth producers round out the wine list, with former Stokehouse chef Brendan Anderson on the pans cooking a Mediterranean feast.

Expect classics such as veal tonnato, gnocchi with charred leeks and pasley butter, and salumi, alongside pub favourites eye or scotch fillet with all the trimmings and a classic chicken schnitzel.

“We know people are visiting Rutherglen, but they aren’t staying for long,” Kate said in May.

“We want to create a reason for them to visit and stay longer. We are diversifying the landscape and want to create a space that the community loves and everyone feels at home.”

Six boutique suites will open at the hotel early next year, with a further eight opening by mid-2024.

The Victoria Hotel, 90 Main St, Rutherglen, victoriahotelrutherglen.com.au

St Germain Wine Bar has opened in Hawthorn.

St-Germain Wine Bar opens in Hawthorn

Melbourne’s food and wine scene is great, but how about year-round sunshine?

When restaurateur Aurelien Bagou was scouting a location for his next venue, a sundrenced corner spot was at the top of his wishlist.

And after months of searching, Bagou’s dream will become a reality this Thursday when he opens St Germain Wine Bar in Hawthorn, on the corner Glenferrie Rd and Churchill Grove.

“It’s sun-drenched all day here — it’s amazing,” he said.

Bagou, who opened Albert Park’s neighbourhood French bistro Chez Bagou five years ago, said he was ready for a new chapter.

St Germain Wine Bar’s Aurelien Bagou and Belinda Alexander.

“Instead of opening another bistro or restaurant, I wanted to try a new concept,” he said.

“Belinda (life and business partner) and I love going to Marion Wine Bar, but it’s not just about wine or charcuterie boards and cheese. It’s about good food and drinks.”

That’s why he’s set chef Guillaume Sauvetra (formerly of Chez Bagou) to task, bringing the “bistronomy” movement (modern takes on traditional French cuisine) to the wine bar.

“We’ll have salmon gravlax with eggs and Lyonnaise mayonnaise... slow cooked beef cheeks and creamy Paris mash, Entrecote and fritte, croquettes and more,” he said.

French-led wine will compliment the cooking, an in time, Bagou will introduce a few choice Aussie, Italian, Argentinian and German drops.

Sunny alfresco seats play into St-Germain’s Parisian vibes and will be a feature of the warmer months.

And while Melbourne may not always hold up its end of the deal in the sunshine department, Bagou says there is plenty of indoor seats to shield you from the elements.

St-Germain Wine Bar, 838 Glenferrie Rd, Hawthorn, Opens Thursday for lunch and dinner, and from 3pm Tues and Wed. stgermainwinebar.com.au

Big change coming to iconic Yarra Valley winery

There’s been a big change at Yarra Valley winery Helen and Joey Estate.

Don’t worry, Bruce the unicorn remains.

Re’em, a modern 100-seater Chinese restaurant, is now open as part of a $22m makeover which includes a 16-room boutique hotel on site.

Chef Mark Ebbels (formerly of The Fat Duck, TarraWarra) helped shape the restaurant’s food direction, inspired by the owners’ Chinese heritage.

“Helen is from the Jin Hua (in Zhejiang province), and Joey from Sichuan,” Mark said.

“Which is polarising as Sichuan is known for its big, bold striking flavours and Helen’s region is really light.”

Buckwheat dumplings.

“I’ve taken inspiration from the ingredients that are available in the Yarra Valley, stories from their childhood and traditional dishes of those regions to draw a connection.”

The buckwheat dumplings are a fitting example of this. Shaped more like a cavatelli or gnocchi, the mushroom-stuffed parcels are an ode to Helen’s favourite childhood snack.

Mark says the rainbow trout, lightly brined and steamed to achieve a confit salmon texture, is another favourite served alongside a mustard greens pesto and a ginger/honey soy emulsion.

Ebbels has installed head chef Abraham Yang, who he worked with at TarraWarra, at the helm.

Re’em Yarra Valley Restaurant, open for lunch Thu-Mon, dinner Fri-Sat, re-em.com.au

Where to try Le Yeahllow’s famous balloon dog dessert

Le Yeahllow founder Samsky Yeung.

Chocolate moulded balloon dog, Heston-inspired mandarin.

Dessert-mad Samsky Yeung is finally living out his sweetest fantasies at his new cake shop.

Yeung and business partner Jason Zhu, of White Mojo cafe fame, last week launched Le Yeahllow’s flagship in the city.

After quietly opening his first South Yarra store in 2020, inside Adriano Zumbo’s old digs, the French patisserie has built a cult following for its bold cake creations.

Head pastry chef Steven He’s most in-demand piece is that Jeff Koons inspired ‘balloon dog’, made with sour cherries and black tea.

“We replaced the chocolate with tea, to create a new take on the black forest cake,” he said.

“You won’t find the classics on our menu. There’s no tiramisu or black forest cake – we put a twist on these in our own style.”

The signature mandarin desert can be found at Le Yeahllow’s flagship CBD store. Picture: Ian Currie.

Samsky has always had a penchant for pastries and cakes, and White Mojo was often the platform for these elevated cakes and tricked-up desserts.

Steven, who graduated from White Mojo’s head pastry chef, uses both traditional and Japanese techniques in his baking.

You’ll see this in Le Yeahllow’s signature mango chiffon cheesecake and the mandarin, designed in a lifelike Heston Blumenthal style, playing with ginger and Valrhona chocolate flavours.

“I’m quite old-fashioned and love an orange cookie, but when these were phased out in lockdown we decided to make our own version in cake form,” Steven said.

Le Yeahllow’s CBD store is much larger than the South Yarra outpost, with more seats and cake displays.

It has also extended its opening hours to cater for city workers and cake order collection.

Le Yeahllow, 66 Little Collins Street, Melbourne, leyeahllow.com.au

Pope Joan to pay back suppliers after debt woes

Pope Joan has reopened at Melbourne Airport, months after shuttering its beloved CBD cafe.

Owner David Mackintosh said the new site at the Qantas Domestic Terminal would help generate revenue to pay back what it owed to small producers.

The business called in insolvency restructuring experts in May, as it struggled under a near $1m debt load.

In August it closed its CBD cafe, located in the Sofitel Melbourne forecourt.

“By reopening this business, we can generate revenue again to finally settle what is owed to small producers who are the lifeblood of quality hospitality,” Mackintosh said.

“No staff were disadvantaged when we closed the city (location) and we’ll be glad when the small number of small businesses are brought up to date too.”

Mackintosh, who runs the business with Thomas Crago, said he was excited to see the Pope Joan airport outlet take off.

Dave Mackintosh

“Our first coffee conversation about this opportunity was in November 2019. We’ll open in November 2023. It’s been a long journey, but we are delighted to get to this point.”

Weeks after its closure, Mackintosh tried to negotiate a sale for the business, but this fell through.

Mackintosh said he cut his losses when the landlord refused both potential buyers.

Covid lockdowns and a downturn in CBD foot traffic were to blame for the demise of Pope Joan’s CBD store.

Mackintosh said his Sofitel forecourt venue couldn’t keep up with the “speed and severity” of the pandemic and the change in work arrangements it had spawned.

“Nobody can change their business that fast,” he told the Herald Sun at the time.

“We have to respond to the reality and that is there is only 50 to 60 per cent of daytime workers in the city than there used to be — and they’re not coming back. This is the new normal.”

Pope Joan was forced to call in insolvency experts SMB Advisory after the Australian Taxation Office took legal action to recover close to $600,000 it says it is owed.

Other key creditors include landlord Mirvac which is owed $146,943, accountant Think Advisors owed $20,852 and South Australian winery Vinteloper owed $5,055, a report from SMB shows.

The report points out the business regularly turned over $40,000 to $45,000 a week when it opened at the start of 2019.

The restaurant grew a cult-following when star chef Matt Wilkinson first opened in Brunswick East more than a decade ago.

The chef remained at the helm when the venue moved into its new digs beneath the Sofitel hotel in 2019, under the ownership of Mackintosh and Crago.