New dining room for Provenance in Beechworth celebrates northeast Victoria
A STYLISH new room makes Beechworth’s Japanese-influenced fine diner Provenance even more deserving of the drive, writes Dan Stock.
Melbourne
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IF THERE’S no better time to be in Beechworth than autumn — and I can’t think of town that’s more gloriously, brilliantly, vibrantly ablaze in colour in late May than perhaps Bright — then winter is a very close second.
But while Bright takes care of skiers through to spring — and beer drinkers at the Bright Brewery and gin sippers at Reed & Co — it has recently lost its restaurants of note (Simone’s; Tani Eat Drink).
Which makes the movie-set streets of Beechworth — a town of 4000 people and 180 years’ history — a compelling short break for the hungry-thirsty tourist up from town, for its main drag contains a critical mass of good places.
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Sure, the bakery might be Beechworth’s most famous export, but you might not want to waste stomach space on a fairly forgettable pie when there are excellent pizzas at Bridge Road Brewery, bowls of chestnut fettuccine with wild rabbit at The Ox and Hound and drunken brisket dumplings at the new-look Empire Hotel.
And while Michael Ryan’s modern Japanese-accented regionally focused cooking has long brought discerning hungers to Beechworth, a recent makeover of his Provenance dining room now more fully realises the vision of a regional restaurant deserving of the drive.
The historic surrounds and soaring ceilings of the one-time Bank of Australasia juxtaposed by an agreeably modern palette of slate and charcoal provides a rightfully elegant backdrop to dinner.
With a linen-and-leather banquette running under the Play School windows and clever lighting making the room and everyone in it look good, it’s a handsome and romantic space that’s now as smart as the cooking. A soundtrack that traverses Bon Iver and Bob Dylan doesn’t hurt, nor does a drinks list that’s both a joyous celebration of this wine region and a considered collection of Japanese booze. That the beer fridge is stocked with eclectic brews — Norwegian grapefruit pale ale; an Italian raspberry sour — alongside a shelf of Beechworth beauties is an added bonus for hop heads.
Whether you choose the $125 six-course degustation or the two/three course option ($75/$95) don’t skimp on the snacks to start. For cured garfish served with its crunchy fried skeleton ($4), or jerky-like cured-squid served with kewpie mayo ($10) are little scene setters that touch on the taste/technique/touch-of-Tokyo triumvirate Ryan has honed over the past decade that’s a hallmark of a meal here.
Then there’s the silken tofu, just set moments before service, that’s a gently quivering, velvety and fleeting reminder of the simple pleasure of soy ($10), while smoky miso butter to smear on sourdough heralds the East-meets-West style of Ryan’s kitchen.
Although the menu is scattered with yuzu and umeboshi and dashi this is not a Japanese restaurant, rather one whose engine is fuelled by a longstanding love of the Land of the Rising Sun.
That might mean an oden (a Japanese one-pot dish) of beef tongue, the slivers of rich meat grill branded and poached in earthy mushroom stock served with charry leeks that are slippery soft yet retain a touch of bite. A dice of meaty mushrooms hide inspired bursts of salted cumquat, curls of mustard stems adding vibrant crunch. It’s both comforting and clever and a delight to eat.
So too is a generous portion of fall apart soft Myree goat teamed with equally tender eggplant, a handful of puffed grains across the lot counters with crunch and highlights a deft touch on textural interest throughout the dish.
Hay-smoked celeriac shows vegetables/vegetarians are no mere afterthought, with a spelt pilaf adding al dente heft to another cuddly dish in the cold, but the standout this night is the duck.
Two thick slices of breast meat, perfectly cooked ruby and rendered, have their sweet gaminess amped with furikake — a Japanese seasoning featuring sesame and dried fish — that delivers umami and depth. More duck — this time leg meat — in the brown rice congee, with preserved shiitake and an umebosi (Japanese salted plum) reduction finishing with salty sharp sweetness. What a dish.
Service, while friendly and fairly knowledgeable (especially about wine), never got out of second gear even at the peak of Saturday night service; we had lots of time to look at our empty glasses, the unwiped dribbles on the table, the salt and pepper, while waiting for our dessert order to be taken.
But they were worth it: the finest apple dice and sharp raspberries layered between crostoli pastry with bay leaf-scented curd as delicate and refreshing as poached quince with gingerbread spiced crumbs and miso ice cream is county comfort.
Provenance is a regional celebration of the north east that’s unique and inspired, with cooking that’s smart and delicious.
It makes a winter weekend in Beechworth filled with feasting and wine by the fire a compelling proposition — snoods and snuggies optional.
Provenance
86 Ford St, Beechworth
Ph: 5728 1786
Hours: Dinner Wed-Sat; Sun lunch
Go-to dish: Duck with brown rice congee
15.5/20
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