Mortadeli Pasta Bar restaurant review 2023: Kara Monssen visits Torquay’s new Italian deli

We’re not denying the greatness of this pasta bar meets deli’s namesake dish — though it’s home to a gloriously cheesy beacon of hope that’ll turn your jaffle game upside down.

Come for the main attraction, stay for the fried mozzarella at Mortadeli Pasta Bar Picture: Nick Watson

Jaffles are my jam, but I’m yet to find a restaurant adaptation to rock my world.

Some creations are too understated; squishing next to no cheese or spag bol between unbuttered or unoiled white (like a psychopath), while others overcomplicate with cleverness and spoil the trick.

But our Surf Coast mates at Mortadeli nail the assignment.

Bite through the rubbly golden crumbed armour for a molten mozzarella and smoked scamorza with stretch for days. Its sweet and salty pops of anchovy, tomato and cima shine through like a glorious beacon of hope. This is how you jaffle ($8).

It’s a solid move by Torquay’s sandwich experts.

Mozzerella in carrozza is mighty delicious. Picture: Nick Watson

It’s a solid move by Torquay’s sandwich experts.

Melbourne travel agent and qualified chef Jake Cassar made the Covid sea change to open what would become the region’s – arguably the state’s – hot off the sandwich press lunch spot 2021.

Later that year, Cassar and his partner Naomi Jankowski scored a lease on a larger venue across the piazza, but only this July opened their offshoot deli-meets-pasta bar.

It’s an ode to Cassar’s love of Roman pasta bars and reminds me of those Euro delis from the ’90s.

Pasta is made fresh daily. Picture: Nick Watson

Only 40 can squeeze into this tight, yet comfy, space. Add some white-jacketed waiters, terrazzo-chequered floors and a yellow laminate bar to pick from piles of olives and mortadella (flavours extend beyond peppercorn and green olive); and a sun-drenched venetianed front window.

Settle in with a classic cocktail, say a negroni, or their smart non-alch take if you’re driving.

The house-baked, free ciabatta is impossible not to immediately devour, though I beg you to save some for the wood grilled octopus ($16); lapping in an olive oil and red vinegar pool of parsley, white anchovies, celery and bottagra that’s wonderfully textural.

Talk about a serious snack game. Picture: Nick Watson

While the sanger shop has the full format Maltese hobz biz zejt, here it takes on life as smaller bruschetta ($12): firm Ftira bread is loaded with fluffy house-brined tuna and the same Italian pick and mix of olives, capers, white anchovy and ricotta.

And then comes the pasta, all made fresh daily.

Torquay or Rome? Hard to say. Picture: Nick Watson

Cacio e pepe and traditional Roman pastas are firm staples, though everything else changes with the seasons.

Gnudi con la zucca ($35); or naked ravioli, takes just formed pumpkin and ricotta mounds and drenches them in marjoram butter. What a sweet and salty serenade, and they’re gluten free.

On my visit, the squid ink pasta ($40); fat tubes of bucatini slicked in jet black ink, was heavy in flavour and form, though a fine celebration of squid and the sea. Thankfully you can take leftovers home without hassle. I’m told this dish has since been subbed out.

Wines are an equal Italian and Aussie love-in, thanks to venue manager and wine pro Lolo Hanser (ex-River Cafe London, Geelong’s La Cantina), who also works as the venue manager.

As for sweets, the tiramisu packs a zippy caffeine punch to perfectly counter those wispy mascarpone clouds.

Mortadeli is an all seasons blessing for locals and tourists alike, and while it’s in between a head chef, that shouldn’t stop your next coastal trip.