Jeow Richmond restaurant review: Fiery Laotian outfit adds exciting layer to Melbourne’s food scene

Some may like it hot but you’ll need an ice-bucket on standby at this new-look Richmond eatery known for world-class cooking and fiery flavours.

A whole flounder lands at the table, barbecued until slightly blackened, wearing a patchwork of vibrant green and golden-fried garlic shoots.

It’s brilliantly cooked; a crisp layer of skin easily parts from its bony frame to reveal supple, sublime white flesh underneath.

It’s a dish so simply put together, so right in every way and I wonder how a simple plate of food can leave such a lasting impression.

Maybe it’s the “lunch at Mum’s house” vibes this place brings, especially when we visit on a Sunday, surrounded by families doing the same.

What lands on the plate changes often and on Sundays you get what you’re given, not that this matters.

Whole flounder with chives. Picture: Morgan Hancock

You just know you’ll be back at Jeow soon enough for more out-of-this-world cooking.

The best part of eating at Richmond’s newish Laotian outfit is that almost everything chef Thi Li cooks is considered, suitably balanced and damn delicious.

Be it the purity of those briny Pacific oysters, dressed in a tingly dragon fruit hot sauce, which adds tempo, not burn, or those bouncy Spanish mackerel fishcakes, fried in lemongrass husks, peeled back like bananas and swiped in a salty sour tamarind sauce — one of the many Li makes from scratch.

Maybe it’ll be the genius, two-bite tapioca orb that’ll win your heart; a snack made from squishy dumpling skins, stuffed with Jerusalem artichoke and cashews and eaten like a taco with fresh lettuce leaves and herbs.

All of this, and we’ve just cracked the first course.

For those in the know, Thi Li and Jia-Yen Lee have been Bridge Rd regulars since opening their first restaurant, Vietnamese favourite Anchovy, seven years ago.

Jerusalem artichokes and cashew tapioca balls. Picture: Morgan Hancock

Spanish mackerel fishcake. Picture: Morgan Hancock

It was never about bun (vermicelli rice bowls) or bahn mi, just dishes true to cuisine brimming with hug-in-a-bowl, homely comfort yet executed with cheffy expertise.

After flipping from a la carte to set menu during Covid, the duo realised Anchovy was better suited to the latter and decided to press pause on the restaurant while they found a more suitable space.

In mid-June, they opened Jeow in Anchovy’s digs, next door to their lockdown bahn mi project Ca Com. Not much has changed aesthetically – it’s the same team working inside the 25-seater, structured Sunday lunch set and even the Anchovy sign and branding remains.

Instead of Vietnam, Thi turns our attention to Laos. I’ve never travelled to the landlocked country north of Vietnam, nor have I eaten at a Laotian restaurant, but after visiting I can say it’s a celebration of fresh ingredients, spice and well-built sauces that play nicely with all from land and sea.

Jeow, much like Anchovy was, lets anything go during the week. Come in for snacks at the bar or order larger shares on the low-set tables. On Sundays, it’s a lot like Anchovy 1.0 through a different filter. A reasonable $75 a person gets four or so courses, including shared snacks, larger plates and something sweet to end.

Durian and white chocolate Swiss roll. Picture: Morgan Hancock

Thi Li’s cooking is next level at Jeow. Picture: Morgan Hancock

Lee is behind drinks, crafting a list that honours botanicals and aromats, with gin and sherries at the fore, cocktails, beers, wines and young coconuts hacked to order.

This makes the best extinguisher for that fiery laap. Choose from three equally different types via a la carte, but today we’re dealt a lip-numbing duck made with all parts of the bird.

That cooling plate of raw cabbage leaves, Thai basil and beans gets a workout.

But save it for the papaya salad – its noodle tresses pack serious crunch and chilli punch, yet are so tasty you’ll have a hard time stopping yourself. As the Divinyls sang, it’s a fine line between pleasure and pain.

Then there’s dessert, which folds intense tropical durian into a white chocolate cream inside a coconut sponge roll with tangy Meyer lemon marmalade.

Jeow really considers everything. There’s something for the non-drinkers, boozers, spice haters, those scared off by the unfamiliar flavours or cuisines.

And so much love and soul, I’m giddy for what’s to come.

Jeow

338 Bridge Rd, Richmond

jeow.net.au

Open: Thu-Sat: 6pm-10pm, Sun: 12pm-3pm

Cost: $75 per person Sunday lunch

Try this if you like: Serai

Go-to dish: Flounder with garlic oil, chives

Rating: 8/10