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Have you been to Tipo 00 recently? Now’s the time to pay a visit

There’s a new restaurant opening in Melbourne almost every week, but when was the last time you visited an old favourite? This is your sign to revisit this timeless Italian classic.

Italian pasta icon Tipo 00 proudly waves the flag for homemade pasta.
Italian pasta icon Tipo 00 proudly waves the flag for homemade pasta.

Birthdays are overrated, especially as you get older.

It’s the opposite in restaurant land. Every year above ground, and in business, is worth celebrating — especially the big milestones.

With so many restaurants reaching their expiry date (vale Gingerboy and Botswana Butchery this week), we must celebrate the stalwarts while we still can.

Shane Delia’s Middle Eastern marvel Maha turned 15 last year, Movida is 21, while 2025 marks 35 years of pasta glory for Ronnie di Stasio and Mallory Wall’s Cafe di Stasio.

France Soir is just shy of 40, Flower Drum turns the big 5-0 next year and Grossi Florentino is four years off a century. Where has the time gone?

A little newer to the game is Tipo 00, with (almost) a decade under its belt.

“Holy crap! Ten years!” I hear you scream, but how wonderful is it to see restaurants go the distance with the same passion and drive as day dot?

Praise to the OG owners Luke Skidmore, Andreas Papadakis and Alberto Fava for keeping up their end of the deal, with Papadakis and Fava charging the kitchen while head chef Manjot Khatra is on the pans.

Tipo 00’s beef tartare. Picture: Kristoffer Paulsen
Tipo 00’s beef tartare. Picture: Kristoffer Paulsen
Fenugreek butter scallops are my new love language. Picture: Kristoffer Paulsen
Fenugreek butter scallops are my new love language. Picture: Kristoffer Paulsen

Also, shout out to original crew member Tom Allen Graham who’s been around since day one. Hooray!

For those who haven’t been, and yes these people do exist, Tipo 00 has built its reputation on solid Italian flavours and even stronger pasta flour.

Start with a snack, swig some fine Italian vino (but first, a cocktail) and let the pasta party begin.

By 11.45am on a Thursday, the restaurant is just shy of full.

The prosecco’s popping, focaccia’s out for plate mopping, and the sizzle and squeal of the grill is in overdrive. She’s alive and humming.

There’s 40 people inside the deceptively tiny, yet functional, dining room, but you wouldn’t know it. Tipo 00 follows the typical Melbourne restaurant design brief: concrete floors, dark timber tables, white subway tiled walls and dark accents throughout.

Unshakeable favourites also remain menu-side. Like that sourdough focaccia, crusty with a distinct chew, powered by a mother that’s been kept alive for more than 3600 days.

Or the rosy pink oxtongue skewers ($18) resting in a sticky sweet balsamic, puffed with woodfire smoke and electrifying pink peppercorns. A flavour pairing for the books.

You can’t pass up a bowl of pasta.

There are six to choose from, all made in house from the namesake flour, though the famed black tagliolini ($32) is one that must pass the lips. A fine-ribboned egg pasta similar to linguine, delivers a rush of ocean magic: bursting with roe and bacon of the sea bottagra, she’s all lemon butter and calamari kisses, with a pebbly sourdough crunch.

No wonder it’s still around.

Load the table up at Tipo 00. Picture: Kristoffer Paulsen
Load the table up at Tipo 00. Picture: Kristoffer Paulsen

Or the classic tipomisu ($16); undoubtedly one of the city’s finest modern takes on the Italian classic. Don’t come for me, Grossi.

Here they fill a rye brownie puck with mascarpone cream, coat it in chocolate and smothering it tableside in a hot lava of salted caramel, coffee and chocolate. The tempered shell stands zero chances of survival. Newer dishes are also worth a look in, too.

Expertly cooked octopus ($25) that’s slow cooked, thrown over coals and slicked with a lively fermented tomato dressing and chipper celery is a banger.

Podgy Western Australian scallops ($14 each) come bobbing in a loud fenugreek leaf butter so unbelievably delicious I lick the shell clean.

And we haven’t even scraped the surface on drinks.

Federico Valotti and Gavin Cremming call and pour the shots here, from all corners of the globe, with an Italian focus — including a vivacious verdicchio, “so hot right now” soave to tongue tingling Etna Rosso.

It’s clear why Tipo 00 is a survivor.

Not many restaurants, especially in this climate, can score the runs while consistently performing at a high level. While its encouraging to support new restaurants, admittedly plenty feature on these pages, we must also regularly honour those that have come before.

If it’s been a while in between Tipo treats, this is your sign for another visit.

Here’s to you, and to many more cake days in the future.

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Original URL: https://www.heraldsun.com.au/lifestyle/food/have-you-been-to-tipo-00-recently-nows-the-time-to-pay-a-visit/news-story/0e8b0fbfa56317deb487ff5a9756d659