Former Philhellene owners Susie and John Rerakis open Athos Cafe
A husband and wife duo best known for their suburban Greek restaurants are behind a new all-day neighbourhood haunt slinging sangers, baklava and traditional coffee.
Food
Don't miss out on the headlines from Food. Followed categories will be added to My News.
Susie and John Rerakis are best known for their popular suburban Greek restaurants, but are dialling things back at their new Strathmore cafe.
“We’re not calling ourselves a Greek place as such,” John said.
“Sure, we’ll sell baklava, silverbeet dolmades and moussaka ... but (the menu) will change every day and we’ll grow all our produce in the garden.”
Athos Cafe is the wholesome new project by the husband and wife team, who earlier this year sold their Moonee Ponds outfit, Philhellene, after facing mounting challenges in hospitality.
“We’re struggling with committed people who want to stay in the industry,” he said.
“It’s a real struggle to find staff.”
Their solution? Downsize to a venue requiring fewer employees, that’s closer to home and gives them an excuse to play with the veggie patch.
“Once upon a time we were ridiculed for growing veggies in the front yard, now it’s cool.
“I do have the best set up, using reclaimed recycled materials. In the cafe we’ll use dill, mint, parsley, leeks and silverbeet – everything that’s looking great, we’ll use.”
John will continue to champion regional Crete cuisine on the menu, while playing to other cafe faves such as sandwiches, fresh salads and cakes, with a grab-and-go meal counter.
“We’ll be open to 6pm, which is a bit later than a normal cafe but gives locals the opportunity to come in and grab something for dinner.”
Athos Cafe, 8 Lloyd St, Strathmore, instagram.com/athoscafedeli
Frankie’s Pie Shop peddles posh pastries
Swiss chef Francesca Giorgi-Monfort didn’t think Aussie pies cut the mustard — so she decided to bake her own.
“After moving to Australia, I realised pies were a big thing here,” she said.
“But as a European, I couldn’t enjoy them the same as the quality wasn’t there. Most weren’t made with proper ingredients, and even some of the best pies I thought could be better.”
Frankie’s Pie Shop launched in July this year, with her short range of puff pastry pies and sausage rolls debuting at the Fitzroy Mill Markets.
Fran makes all her pies from scratch, including the puff pastry which is a three-day exercise with just four ingredients.
She even “aromatises” the pastry to add flavour dimension.
“It’s super simple to do and a point of difference. I have made everything from thyme, curry, pepperberry and rosemary,” she said.
The fillings and flavours change monthly, depending on what’s fresh and best, but her biggest sellers include the kangaroo bourguignon in a pepperberry puff, pork and veal scotch egg in rosemary puff, kimchi with smoked folded eggs in a Gruyere custard and a rainbow trout, leek and herbed bechamel creation.
Fran, who worked at London’s Soho House and Melbourne’s Farmer’s Daughters, keeps the chef cogs turning by minimising waste in her kitchen.
“A lot of recipes are circular. If I peel potatoes to make a mash, I’ll later cook down those peels to mash or make a thickener for gravy,” she said.
“The shape is different, too – ours are rectangular, as when you make round pies you will have offcuts.”
She’s also challenging the meat pie’s portable snack trope in her cooking.
“Our pies are 200g to 350g in size. People eat (pies) here as a snack, so you have to eat two, but with our pies you’ll only need one,” she said.
Fran hopes to one day launch a bricks and mortar store, but until then she’s happy cooking for the Fitzroy locals.
Frankie’s Pie Shop, The Fitzroy Mills Market, 75 Rose St, Fitzroy, or order online: cookaborough.com/frankies-pie-shop/menus