Elsternwick’s neighbourhood gem Copycat won’t leave you hungry

This neighbourhood gem is perfect for a quick drink, but strap in for the long haul and you’ll roll out with a full tummy and heart.

“Neeeeeighbours, everybody needs good neighbours. With a little understanding, you can find the perfect bleeend.”

Shed a tear for the world’s favourite soap, which spent 37 years on our screens, but unlike Neighbours, I suspect there will be many more seasons from Elsternwick’s Copycat.

After years of smashing avo and pouring lattes at Armadale neighbourhood cafe Mammoth, brothers Nick and Zac Beerens have flipped the script and opened a slick, day-to-night eatery in their old stomping ground.

Copycat’s ceviche. Picture: Parker Blain

Copycat ironically hasn’t taken any cues from its sister venue, yet looked to Melbourne’s other great eateries to shape its look and feel.

Its vibe is definitely has more of a cocktail bar than restaurant vibe, and plenty of room in the 140 seater to enjoy both.

Rich mahogany floors, grey stone walls and plush pine green banquettes beneath a dimly lit backdrop paint a moody picture.

There’s a cosy lounge out the back, a terrace out the front and tables slotted in every nook of the 1880s public hall, which was flipped in 1911 to house the Classic Cinemas, part of which still run next door.

Copycat is immediately warming, and no, not just because of those buttery popcorn wafts.

Only three months old, Copycat shows maturity and essence of community beyond its age. The Beerens know what will work in this area, knowledge accrued from many nights at After The Tears – the bar that lived here before Copycat moved in last November.

Charismatic, switched-on staff help ease you into the night, with those share plates and smashable drinks adding fuel to the flame.

Scallops. Picture: Parker Blain

Harry Whitelegg (Vue Group) shakes up a mix of native cocktails, such as a saltbush margarita, lemon myrtle martini and Davidson plum-spiked mezcalita, which leans a little syrupy sweet for my liking.

Lesser-known Victorian wine producers, such as Mornington Peninsula’s Onannon and Heathcote’s Syrahmi, get their time in the sun alongside Euro drops by the glass and bottle, courtesy of Jane Semple (Goodie Group, Vue de Monde). For the price you’re paying, the

wine should be poured at the table, but at least the glassware is on point.

Copycat’s drinks complement Kevin Middleton’s (formerly of Donovans and Naked for Satan) European plates.

Zingy Spring Bay mussels cooked escabeche style wade in a white wine broth. Delicious. Snow-white stracciatella rests on a beaming red medley of tomato, eggplant and capsicum agrodolce, with a shatter-crisp crouton wafer for cutlery.

You could order a sneaky side of leek and gruyere croquettes to add to the mix, but by this stage our appetite slows.

Spring Bay mussels. Picture: Parker Blain

Serving sizes are heavier than I’d expect for share plates between two.

I only find out later, without any direction from staff, that the dining room is geared towards larger tables, whereas the bar menu is suitable for couples.

Better loosen the belt for the mains.

Grain-fed scotch fillet and blistered shallots in a deeply flavoured red wine jus don’t help my cause, nor does the “I-can’t-believe-it’s-vegan” leek tart tatin.

Vegan shortcrust pastry cradles caramelised sweet leeks, topped with salty pops of almond feta and a showering of hazelnut dukkah. It all works in harmony, and that faux cheese is a dead ringer for goat’s, but it’s a lot to handle.

Copycat restaurant and bar in Elsternwick. food and drink. Picture: Parker Blain

We double down on dessert to try Middleton’s copycat creation of Donovan’s iconic bombe alaska. Here, glossy meringue is piped over a silky salted macadamia parfait and showered in a crumbly chocolate brownie.

Sadly, there were no tableside flames, but it was all worth it for that toasty macadamia parfait. Copycat has cracked the code on what makes a great neighbourhood venue – it’s comfortable, there’s a vibe and plenty of food to nourish the soul.

Whether you go whole hog, or just sip and sup, that’s up to you.

A moody dining room sets the scene at Copycat. Picture: Parker Blain

COPYCAT

9b Gordon Street, Elsternwick

copycatelsternwick.com.au

Open: Mon-Thu: 5pm to 11pm, Fri-Sat: 12pm-1am, Sun: 12pm to 11pm

Go to dish: Stracciatella, Spring Bay Mussels

Try this if you like: Poodle Bar, Fitzroy

COST: Smaller ($14-$32) Larger ($32-$48) Dessert ($16-$18)

RATING: 7/10