Cafe king Julien Moussi buys old suburban milk bar: Glen Iris Pantry

Hospo giant Julien Moussi has added another venue to his growing cafe portfolio by snapping up his childhood milk bar.

Hospo king Julien Moussi is known around town for his growing cafe portfolio, but his latest buy is by far the closest to his heart.

Two months ago the entrepreneur snapped up childhood milk bar, Glen Iris Pantry, with plans to turn the space into a cafe by day and Southeast Asian eatery and beer garden by night.

“I grew up 1km from Glen Iris and (the milk bar) was a place I always used to go,” he said. Owners Chris and Fil Papagianis have owned the Glen Iris Rd space since Moussi was a kid, and were reluctant to sell — until recently.

Julien Moussi bought his childhood milk bar from Chris Papagianis and Filio Papagianis. Picture: Tony Gough

“I’ve been hassling them forever, but they hadn’t been in a rush to sell,” Moussi said.

“They sold it as a freehold, so that includes the business and the land, and wanted very good money on it. But I really wanted it, as it means so much more to me than other venues.

“I have ties to the location and so many friends and family around here.”

Franky Pham, far right, will lead the kitchen at Glen Iris Pantry. Picture: Tony Gough

Moussi has appointed St Cloud Eating House’s Franky Pham as head chef, who’ll sling cafe fare by day and Asian eats at Two Good Talker by night, with the help of John Woo and Allan Hwang.

Expect the sprawling backyard to be the stage for after-work drinks in the sun come summer.

Glen Iris Pantry, 106 Glen Iris Rd, opening July 2022.

Peruvian revamps Fitzroy St

Daniel Verheyen’s first tiradito experience was out of this world.

“It just melted on my tongue. I’d never had anything like it and to this day remember the experience – that was back in 2009,” he said.

The Peruvian fish dish, similar to ceviche, is one of the many modern seafood plates you’ll find at Verheyen’s and partner Emma Veale’s Lima-inspired bar, Chicha.

Chicha owners Daniel Verheyen, Emma Veale and Jose Narvaez. Picture: Tony Gough

Verheyen, who also owns St Kilda’s Milk the Cow next door, opened the restaurant and bar in February after taking over the space left vacant by Supernormal Canteen.

“The locals love it. We have been deprived of some really good stuff on Fitzroy St for a while, but we’re serving fresh, honest seafood and the price is right – they’re loving it.”

When the opportunity presented to open Chicha, Verheyen asked the man behind that mind blowing tiradito, Peruvian chef Danny Perreno, to help out.

“Danny came on board to consult and between him, myself and Jose Narvaez (former Ekeko, Harley House), we have perfected it,” Verheyen said.

Peruvian Bouillabaisse with prawns, squid, market fish and crayfish tail. Picture: Tony Gough

The dish that started it all. Picture: Tony Gough

Chicha has a dedicated champagne and oyster bar and raw fish station helmed by ceviche queen Kelly Jhoncon Fong, with most of the cooked proteins thrown over the hibachi grill. And being a Peruvian-inspired bar, it would be rude not to sell national cocktail pisco sour for $14 a pop.

“Fitzroy St has Mahjong, Milk the Cow and now Chicha, and they all complement each other,” Verheyen said.

“There’s an energy here. I’m very proud of what Milk the Cow has done and I’m hoping Chicha does the same.”

Chicha Cevicheria and Bar, 2/157 Fitzroy St, St Kilda

Giant Steps winemaker Melanie Chester. Photo: Quentin Chester

Wine awards

Mornington Peninsula wineries have dominated the 2023 Halliday Wine Companion Awards shortlist.

Pt Leo Estate was nominated in the Dark Horse category (wineries which receive their first five-star rating) alongside fellow ’ninch winery Yarradindi.

Solum Wines was short-listed for best new winery while Garagiste received a nod for best value winery.

Giant Steps, headed up by chief winemaker Melanie Chester, was also nominated for winery of the year, as was fellow Yarra Valley winery Serrat and Bannockburn Vineyard in Geelong.

The D’Anna family’s Hoddles Creek Estate was also listed as a contender for best-value winery.

More than 8000 wines from across the country, including those from 50 new wineries, were tasted for this year’s awards, which will be held on August 3 at 8pm.