Bistra Carlton restaurant review 2024

An ex-Attica chef leads the kitchen and the drinks are by seasoned wine industry pros — trust you’re in good hands at this new Carlton restaurant.

Bistra is an exiting new template for the ‘Aussie bistro’.

Let’s hear it for familiar faves, food that gives us the fuzzies.

I’m sure you don’t need me to tell you it’s tough out there with “forever” restaurants dropping like flies.

Promisingly, we’re also seeing an explosion of new life.

An exciting mix of genuinely creative places to eat.

Then comes Bistra.

Sure, it may look and feel like a wine bar, standing proudly on the podium of “Most Common 2024 Openings” next to sandwich joints and Med-inspired dinner spots.

Burger and chippies for the win . Picture: Becca Crawford.

But Bistra is a restaurant. And what separates this Carlton vino depository and its supportive snackery is not just its level of kitchen and behind the bar know-how, but a genuine understanding of cooking food that people will find delicious.

It may look like chef Alex Nishizawa (formerly Attica) is sticking to the classics and, in a way he is showcasing the best of Britain and France, but he’s also doing everything in his might to ensure this is the best cheeseburger or roe-anointed rosti to put in your mouth.

This isn’t the owners’ first crack at things, either.

Henry Crawford (Bar Romantica) teamed up with hospo mates Alexei Taheny-Macfarlane (Mac Forbes) and Joseph Ho (Toolangi Vineyards) to open a neighbourhood bistro.

It’s taken two years of slog, elevating the two-level old terrace house into a romantic dining space complete with white walls, roughened timber floors and plush curtains.

There’s pinky-finger-posh white linen, embossed A5 menus and leather-bound drinks bible.

Red Empreror and white bean ragu. Picture: Becca Crawford.

Supernerd champagne Egly Ouriet is $1300 a bottle, there’s plenty of back-vintage Burgundy, Bordeaux and Barolo at the ready, soup through a straw skinsky whites and some real firecracker Aussie vintages (2006 Mount Mary ‘Dr John’, 1990 Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon). And sensibly priced bottles starting at $66.

I’m sure oysters, chicken liver pate and cheeseburgers will fill your modern Melbourne menu bingo card quick smart, but Bistra leaves no crumbs.

The pate ($24), a savoury slab of iron-rich ganache, twinkles with just the right amount of sea salt and red onion marmalade, the toasted sourdough delivering the almighty crunch factor.

Potato rosti ($28 for three) nails the shatter to fluffy spud balance, slapped with enough creme fraiche and explosive roe to ward off an early onset food slumber.

We almost ordered the battered prawns ($32), too, though balked at the last moment for something fresher instead.

Limited by the turn of the season, this menu overrun by booze soaker snacks instead, there was a scarcity.

I’d trade another predictable starter (I’m looking at you, kingfish sashimi) for the onion soup ($21) any day.

Those sweet and tangy caramelised curls swim in a broth so flavour-rich it lingers into next week.

Your next date night sorted. Picture: Becca Crawford.

A fat Comte-smothered crouton, using yesterday’s sourdough, becomes at one with the soup with every mouthful. Cue Homer Simpson drools.

The cheeseburger ($32), all shiny tan milkbun, fat with a beef and brisket mince patty, frilly lettuce and a classic burger sauce is enough of a reason to visit alone.

The well-seasoned meat is more interesting with every messy mouthful, the fries salty and snappy where they count.

We did find something to lighten things up.

A bowl of Port Phillip Bay mussels ($36) swimming in a chorizo, tomato and fennel broth reminiscent of their salty sea juices. More bread at your disposal if you choose.

Bistra isn’t reinventing the wheel, but opens an exciting new template for the Aussie Bistro.