Best things we’ve eaten in Melbourne this summer
Summer is (almost) over, but our appetite for these knockout dishes will live rent free in our minds for many more months.
Food
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These are the best things we ate at Melbourne restaurants this summer.
Tortellini Piadina
Mister Bianco, 26-28 Cotham Rd, Kew
The flatbread from northern Italy’s Emilia Romana region is usually cradling prosciutto, squacquerone (Bologna soft cheese) and rocket. But at his new-look Kew restaurant, chef Joey Vargetto didn’t think it was that much of a cheesy stretch to splash slippery pasta parcels in a bright and buttery parmesan and rocket emulsion, with crispy prosciutto chips and call it a sanger of sorts. It even tastes like one. This is a fun riff on tradition, but also a symbol for everything Mister Bianco’s new era stands for. Reinvention.
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BBQ zucchinis
Rumi, 2 Village Ave, Brunswick East
At Brunswick East faithful Rumi, there are a few new dishes that’ll peak your curiosity. One is the barbecued zucchinis, which are grilled whole ($18) — impressively holding their form over the barbie — silky soft and doused in indulgent brown butter and tart garlic yoghurt.
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HSP croquettes
Rocket Society, 2 Village Ave, Brunswick East
At chef Joseph Abboud’s new bar, grown-up pina coladas exist without being sickly sweet and heady margarockets (mescal and fresh lime) can fuel your night. Snacks lean pickled, puckery or fried, and the condiments game is as strong as those drinks: house-made hummus, fries with tahinaise, breaded barramundi wings dunked in chunky toum’tare (garlic tartare) and sobering HSP (halal snack pack) croquettes. The latter is worthy of your time. Spice-laden, ooey and gooey with lamb, cheese and potato and plenty of sauce to keep it fun.
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Goat Ishtu curry
Toddy Shop by Marthanden Hotel, Rear 191A Smith St, Fitzroy
You have to get the goat curry. A non-negotiable rule I heard on talkback radio years ago has never led me astray. Surely not applicable in every scenario, but when you’re out for Indian and you can picture glorious hunks of meat falling off the bone into a velvety rich stew that’s been simmering for hours on end, can you really say no?
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Pork fry
Toddy Shop by Marthanden Hotel, Rear 191A Smith St, Fitzroy
Another favourite from this hole-in-the-wall Indian joint. The pork fry alternates weekly; the dry pork dish is roughened up with spices and black pepper, fried until gnarly crisp and squishy tender within.
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Injeolmi ice cream
My Sydney mate didn’t like it, but couldn’t stop eating. Neither could I. Doju’s bonkers sweet finisher turns powerful roasted red bean and rice cake flour (injeolmi) to ice-cream with mixed results. Sugar-steeped blackberries and walnuts add excitement with every mouthful.
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Half-marron
Another Doju delight, this time the half marron from Western Australia takes the stage. It’s brilliantly cooked, spilling with oodles of Kermit-green coloured stinging nettle noodles, with lashings of garlic butter. Swoon, indeed.
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Olive oil cake
Wine is the game at Carlton North’s new neighbourhood hangout, but the olive oil cake marked a surprisingly delicious full stop to our night. Dense, moisture-rich with a herbaceous bent, with an uplifting tart Greek yoghurt and perfumed rhubarb add lightness.
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