Askal restaurant review 2024: Kara Monssen visits city’s new Filipino venue

The little-known Asian cuisine is having a hot moment in Melbourne kitchens, and Askal is proving why Filipino food is here to stay.

Askal follows the ‘polished warehouse brief’ to a tee.

Let’s talk about trends.

It’s a topic I’m asked often about as a critic. The first is if I know a few good dinner spots (I do, we can talk).

Every couple of years or so, there’s a cuisine that bubbles back into the mainstream popularity and gets another go on the trendy-go-round: Filipino.

You only need to look at West Footscray’s Chibog, which launched in 2020, or chef Ross Magnaye’s Serai, circa 2022, as proof.

Like clock work, three-level Filipino eating house, Askal, opened in the CBD.

The 60-seater street-level dining room is where you’ll have your fun (for now), with a second-floor events space and lively rooftop bar arriving soon.

Askal follows the ‘polished warehouse brief’ to a tee with exposed red brick and white walls, concrete floors and softening ‘confetti chandelier’ white light pendants.

Askal balances both rich and fresh flavours.

It’s run by five seasoned hospo players.

Chef John Rivera (Amaru) leads the kitchen, Ralph Libo-on (Serai) is on drinks, Dhenvirg Ugot (Society) runs back of house opps and Calos Consunji (The Recreation/Serai) works the floor. Rivera’s mate and Filipino gelataria Kariton Sorbetes buddy, Michael Mabuti, is also involved, who recently opened Fitzroy’s Toddy Shop by the Marthendan Hotel with Mischa Tropp. Keeping up?

I can see why we’re obsessed with Filipino food.

It has that face-slapping freshness and heat, and uses an abundance of veg and seafood. There’s also a bit of a teenager’s diet of fried indulgence meets childlike nostalgia about it.

And in Askal’s case, a meeting of familiar and foreign flavours — in both food and drinks.

Like the calamansi soda cocktail (native citrus) shaken with fermented coconut sap and spicy habernero chillies for Askal’s refreshing take on the Tom Collins.

While we’re on drinks, the wine is excellent value. You won’t spend more than $18 on a glass, with the majority of bottles priced under $100.

Back to food. The ox-tail kare kare doughnut ($14 each), with its stress ball squishy fried bao bun, will ease the day’s tension one glorious bite at a time.

Ocean trout kinilaw.

Sisig, a sizzling plate of pork jowl and abalone.

That peanut and oxtail sauce spews from the ‘doughnut’ mountain like a self saucing pudding, with bagoong (fermented shrimp paste) bringing sweet and sour funk.

“F**k that’s yum” I wrote in my notes app. Still is, I’ll be back.

Same goes for Manong Al’s (that’s Ralph’s dad) BBQ pork skewers ($16.50 each).

The fat-cut pork belly is marinated in Sprite (yes really), skewered, and sizzled over coals, finished with a dab of Rivera’s fruity and fiery banana ketchup.

That gnarliness, charry pork, hot sauce kick… ugh, pass another plate.

Askal shares plenty of these pleasure pushing moments, that would almost be too rich if it weren’t for Rivera’s deft oversight.

Fat Abrolhos scallops lolling in a buttery, annatto dressing are brightened by a pretty ‘inasal XO’ made with ginger and lemongrass ($11 each).

Don’t sleep on the swordfish.

Sisig ($38), a sizzling plate of offcuts and ‘pigs face’, becomes friendlier by using flame tickled abalone and toasty pork jowl instead. Freshened with lettuce and radicchio leaves, it's the Philippines answer to China’s San Choy Bao.

As a texture fiend, Askal wins my heart with its ocean trout kinilaw ($30).

Dig beneath the mess of taro matchsticks, watermelon radish, fried fish skin to find meaty cubes, dressed in an electric guava aguachile of jalepeno, cucumber and lime. It’s beautifully done and holds your interest with every bite.

Though the swordfish ($42) is perhaps is the most deliciously unusual dish I’ve eaten this year. I can’t stop thinking about that ‘mashy’ mouthfeel that eats like potato puree or tuna melt, achieved by being smoked tenderly over coals. With the citron tea vinaigrette and hair-raising lemon and lime juice — I’m not sure why the obsession lies with the cauldron of Angus beef oyster blade, claypot rice and bone marrow ($95). Every table ordered it, and on next visit, I’ll do the same. I’ve been told mackerel has since replaced the swordfish.

Angus beef steak, claypot rice and bone marrow.

Secret’s out! The off-menu ube cake is bound to get your attention.

The domino effect continues with the demure, off-menu ube cake served with a fizzing sparkler atop. I much preferred the caramel flan, but that’s just me — and the beauty of a place like Askal.

It challenges you to step outside your comfort zone, while satisfying the appetites of seasoned eaters.

Forget trends, if Filipino food is as good as Askal delivers, then it’s here to stay.