Gladioli in Port Fairy serves accessible fine dining for all
Gladioli brings accessible fine dining to Port Fairy. But if you think fine dining means an inverse relationship between portion and plate size, there’s no need to worry, writes Dan Stock.
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Matt Dempsey is a busy man.
The Port Fairy-based chef has quietly turned into one of our more prolific restaurateurs, with raft of regional offerings. You’ll find fun and funky drops at Conlan’s Wine Store in Port Fairy and mod Oz share plates at Tulip in Geelong. There’s easy pleasing Euro-leaning fare at Inverleigh Cellar and he’s just added Port Fairy’s first pan-Asian hawker restaurant, Hawker Kampong, into the mix.
But we’re here at Gladioli, his fine-diner that made its name back in Inverleigh until Matt popped the restaurant — and name — on ice a couple of years back, resurrecting it in Port Fairy’s Seacombe House last spring.
This is the space that housed the late-lamented Fen, and those who dined here then will remember the room that’s been left much as it was, though you now enter via the hotel reception rather than directly off the street. It’s a welcome, warming development for the coming months, and though the cool lighting could do with a tweak it’s nothing a few flickering tea lights with their instant Hygge-ness couldn’t fix.
With so many irons and fires, Matt leaves the day-to-day kitchen to Matthew Murphy and in a textbook case of knowing your audience, while both a five- and eight-course menu is offered, so, too is an a la carte (except Sat nights), adding approachability and big night out affordability with three courses at $90.
And those for whom fine dining just means an inverse relationship between portion and plate size can rest assured — there’s real generosity in play here that starts with a couple of oysters theatrically presented under a cloche of apple wood smoke and a quinoa crisp topped with duck parfait finished with powdered cherry.
A crisp-skinned square of pork belly that follows is nicely done. Its crunchy crackle and soft meatiness is teamed with curls of juicy-cool kohlrabi and slightly pickled cabbage that’s been tickled with flame for a touch of smoky char. A puff of aerated mustard finishes a plate that’ll keep meat-eaters happy, but it’s the simple radish dish that’s the knockout opening act.
On a thick schmear of excellent Schulz quark — a fresh, soft cheese like a thick, tangy yoghurt — the veg in various shades of fresh and pickled is arranged. Pitch perfectly seasoned, with added snow peas for crunch, even the pea tendrils earn their place on the plate. A win for team veg.
I reckon it needs to be house-baked at bare minimum if bread as its own course is to be served, but nonetheless the seed-flecked sourdough from Warrnambool’s Jane Dough is delicious. And, though pity the rookie mistake of serving them on cold plates, the mains next are outrageously enjoyable.
Great Ocean duck — the fruit-fed beauties from Port Campbell — comes tonight in confit form which allows the terrific bird to shine bright. Beetroot many ways — roasted, cubed, curled, puree — provides earthy foil and is the perfect side act while a crushed hazelnut paste adds subtle nutty sweetness.
It’s a terrific dish, but it’s equalled in the pleasure stakes by the perfectly cooked Rangers Valley wagyu. Meltingly soft and fleetingly tender, the steak comes with a couple of sharp onion rings and incredible buttery baby leeks, puffed tendon and crisp kale adding crunch atop.
This would be many people’s idea of what fine dining is or should be: familiar flavours elevated, rather than unfamiliar foods served in miniature. That mains are served with a couple of sides — roasted potatoes; a cured/compressed cabbage sprinkled with pangrattato — is another generous touch.
It’s not boundary pushing food — many of these ideas were seen in the city years back but that doesn’t mean they’re not good — and not as singular as Fen in its pursuit of location but it’s still very much of the area, especially the terrific wine list.
It’s a local-loving selection of Grampians goodies and other central Victorian drops that’s not afraid of venturing to Europe, and with very fair mark-ups wine lovers will easily make their petrol money back.
Our waitress was equally on pointe. With just us and Morcheeba on the stereo to keep her company, boredom might’ve caused her to hover, but instead she simply appeared with impeccable timing when needed with a ready answer to any question.
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Such as, what’s Annie Baxter special reserve? It’s a pecorino/manchego-like buffalo milk cheese from Shaw River, and it’s served with terrific buttery house baked lavosh. More Shaw River buffalo milk in sorbet form that’s as coolingly refreshing as the honeycomb it’s served with is tooth-stickingly sweet.
Gladioli is, simply, a lovely little regional restaurant. It will certainly please holidaymakers but seems more interested in keeping local folk happy. And there’s lots to love about that.
Gladioli
22 Sackville St, Port Fairy
Ph: 5539 7523
Open: Dinner Wed-Sat; lunch Fri-Sat
Go-to dish: Great Ocean duck
Score: 14.5/20
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