Cape at RACV Cape Schanck Resort a win for golfers and diners alike
YOU don’t need to love — or even like — golf to enjoy the restaurant at the new RACV resort on the Cape Schanck golf course, writes Dan Stock.
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IF GOLF IS a good walk spoiled, does a golf course restaurant do the same to a good chef?
In the case of Cape at the brand-spanking RACV resort down at Cape Schanck and young chef Josh Pelham, the answer is decidedly — thankfully — not at all.
And that’s great news for golfers, diners and road trippers alike.
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The manicured greens and coastal scrublands of this more remote tip of the peninsula might seem a curious choice for a chef whose CV includes a stint as head chef at London’s 2 Michelin-starred The Square, time running Scott Pickett’s flagship ESP and a stepping stone stint serving rotisserie meat on mass at George Calombaris’s Hellenic Republic. But let’s just chalk it up as yet another win for the peninsula, which can now rightfully claim the title of Australia’s hottest regional dining destination.
Cape is one of three restaurants in this arrestingly beautiful building that emerges out of the hill undulating rust and stone and glass. For a 204-room resort it’s incredibly sympathetic, at once with and of its surrounds yet with the strong architectural voice $150 million affords.
The whole building, of course, makes the floor-to-ceiling most of views that capture the hearts of electric buggy drivers and the souls of those looking farther into the wild Bass Straight distance.
Inside, there’s the all-day Lighthouse Lounge filled with colourful velour and comfortable chairs, and the family restaurant Mantellina that serves pizza and pasta with a side of kids’ games room, which join the 160-seat Cape.
It’s a handsome room cleverly demarcated into zones, where black and tan leather chairs surround well-spaced, nicely set tables, a long granite bar running the length of the room from which an extensive cellar of predominantly Peninsula drops are dispensed.
Even smarter, the acoustics are excellent. The RACV sure knows its members; Josh’s high end smarts might be all over the menu but it remains accessible and outrageously good value — with two/three courses $55/$75. There’s only a hint of big city trend to keep things current — a scattering of crunchy saltbush on the parsnip velouté; tiny pops of finger lime providing acid in the kangaroo tartare — yet a good hand on the grill means a simple steak and salad is executed with supreme class.
That’s not to say there’s no luxe. In fact, one of two non-negotiables right now is a special that’s the best celebration of Victorian truffles I’ve had the pleasure of this season.
Generously shaved at the table over perfectly cooked, slippery risoni topped with aerated parmesan, it’s a creamy, salty, cheesy bowl of heady pleasure that is worth every one of its 35 dollars. If you have are yet to experience the fleeting yet unforgettable pleasures of the truffle then this is a top spot to do so.
The other dish equally memorable is one from Josh’s days at The Square. Glazed roasted chicken wings, deboned and stuffed with a chicken mousse, come surrounded by charred onion and soft king brown mushrooms, a roasted chicken consommé with a hint of pepperberry bite poured at the table. It’s elegant and comforting and outrageously good.
A large, single raviolo filled with scallop and crab mousse served with seafood bisque and a cloud of champagne foam sweetly sings of the sea, while that kangaroo tartare topped with puffed beef tendon, sticky egg yolk and diced pickled pear is tricksy but tasty.
From the grill there’s a whole fish — this day snapper — deftly cooked, dressed in lemon and capers and served under crisp vine leaves ($38). And though the roasted carrots were heat lamp tired and the béarnaise needed more acidic bite, there’s no faulting the respectfully treated 400g of Sher wagyu they accompanied ($98). Brilliant rosemary-salted fat chips are a must from sides that also include a rainbow of beetroots with goat’s curd and a too-wet potato gratin ($10 each).
Service, while of the name badged, I’ll be your waiter tonight school, is well drilled in the systems that ensure a big operation hums. And there’s no denying RACV’s presence on the peninsula training the next gen in the basics is a boon for every operator down there. It’s a great grounding — especially when you factor in that impressively stocked cellar with an extensive selection of it offered by the glass.
Desserts are also great. Poached quince surrounded by noodles of chestnut mousse and served with spiced pumpkin adroitly plays with earthy, savoury sweetness, while the artful, if deconstructed, Main Ridge cheesecake with strawberries many ways — sorbet, purree, poached, gel and tuille — is pretty, delicious.
Say what you like about golf but this restaurant on the green is gold. Cape’s hit a hole in one.
CAPE
Trent Jones Drive, Cape Schanck
Open: Nightly from 6pm
Go-to dish: Stuffed chicken wings
Score 14.5/20
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