The Farmers Arms in Creswick gone from tired ‘old man’s pub’ to country gem

Not that long ago, a country pub only really needed to offer three things to keep punters happy: pints, pool and a parma. But now the best are also showcasing their region to delicious effect, and The Farmers Arms in Creswick is no exception.

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November 16, 2018 - 3:00PM

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ONCE upon a time, not that long ago, a country pub only really needed to offer three things to keep punters happy: pints, pool and a parma.

These remain, of course, their beating heart, but the best country pubs — those that are destinations in their own right — are augmenting that offering with a snapshot of the best of their region, both in the glass and on the plate.

And so it is at the Farmers Arms in Creswick, a pretty little gold rush town 20km outside Ballarat.

In 2016, Christine Molloy took over what was a tired “old man’s pub”, and transformed it into a venue that couples a new focus on local produce with the trusty trifecta to winning effect.

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The tasting platter featuring housemade charcuterie, croquettes and black garlic butter that’s “the stuff of dreams”.

FOOD

Molloy owned Daylesford’s Perfect Drop for many years, where she employed a similar ethos of direct-from-the-farm sourcing and in-house whole-beast butchery to acclaimed effect.

In the large, handsome dining room of the Farmers Arms, that focus is in no sharper relief than on the regional tasting platter that’s a fab feast of meat.

Slivers of soft and sweet wagyu bresaola (air-dried beef) and salty, chewy lombo (cured pork loin) are teamed with terrific pulled pork croquettes served on a crunchy caper-strewn cabbage salad and decadent cheese croquettes filled with oozy Delice de Affinois.

There are fat, marinated Mt Zero olives and sharp pickled veg and a great beetroot relish, but it’s the accompanying black garlic whipped butter to spread on toasted sourdough that’s the stuff of (happy) dreams. At $26, it’s top value.

Lamb from Tuki farm in Smeaton is another compelling reason to visit. Two long-boned cutlets are served pink, a line of fat adding naughty creaminess to the sweet meat. Alongside are a cylinder of slow-cooked shoulder and a pithivier (puff pastry pie) filled with a tomatoey ragu. Minty peas pureed soft finish this top plate ($35).

Bangers and mash is a homely pleasure — though unlike most homes these are made in house. The Thai-style pork, mango, chilli and lime number on the day we visit is an innovative, if curious, sweet-and-sour combo on good buttery mash, peas and beetroot relish ($26).

Lamb cutlet, confit shoulder, potato pitivier, mint pea puree is reason enough alone to visit

DRINK

Booze also keeps close to home with Central Victorian drops joined by a few judiciously chosen Europeans. There’s great drinking in the $40-odd bottle range, while a dozen taps pour $10 pints of Melbourne Bitter alongside crafties including Ballarat’s Red Duck.

SERVICE

Once prompted for menu info our sweet waitress knew her stuff and kept the room well-watered this quiet (ish) Sunday lunchtime.

X FACTOR

Fresh flower posies on each table are small touches that show a seasoned hospitality eye. A cute outdoor area puts the garden into beer garden and is perfect for a sunny afternoon.

BANG FOR YOUR BUCK

With entrees in the mid teens and most mains (bar the steaks) under $30, the menu offers great eating at equally great pricing.

You won’t be stung on booze, which makes it even tastier.