Brazilian-influenced pub that’s dishing up all the classics

THE handsome pub known for its live music that’s turning out Brazilian-influenced fare as well as all the classics.

DAN STOCK

2 min read

October 12, 2018 - 3:00PM

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TEMPURA broccolini with fermented chilli. Spirulina trofie pasta with clotted cream and cured yolk. Housemade linguica calabresa, Brazilian fejoada and crisp pig’s ears to snack on first. This is pub food, but not as we know it.

BISTRO LOLA PUNCHES ABOVE ITS WEIGHT

When brothers Jeremy and Pat Furze took over the Bridge Hotel a year ago, this handsome Castlemaine pub was known for its live music and late nights. Now, with new chef Brunno Rocha in the kitchen, this loved local is worth seeking out for a feed by those from further afar.

The Bridge Hotel in Castlemaine is known for its live music. Photo: Rob Leeson

The Brazilian-born chef has called the Central Goldfields home for a decade — he previously cooked at the Railway Hotel and Public Inn, also in town — and teams the recipes of his homeland with the produce of the region to rather brilliant effect.

CASTLEMAINE A HOT SPOT FOR GENEROSITY

FOOD

Don’t worry, it’s still a pub, which means the classics remain. It’s just now the chook for the parma comes from Yapunyah’s meadows and is handcrumbed in panko ($25); the daily changing fish for the chips comes in a sourdough batter. Both are excellent; the fat flakes of saddle tail snapper this day in the slightly tangy batter are especially good, served with mushy peas and sharp tartare, as well as nicely salted chips ($27).

The Bridge Hotel’s the tempura broccolini. Picture: Rob Leeson

That linguica calabresa is a coil of spiced Brazilian pork sausage that’s served on fat chunks of fennel ($18), while the crunchy-battered broccolini with slivers of avocado and squirted with hot sauce is a terrifically tasty way to eat your greens ($18).

It’s worth paying attention to the specials board: one day giant NSW surf clams come tossed through clotted cream with bitter braised brassicas for a salty, creamy, slightly bitter bowl of yes ($21); on another, crunchy green beans served with slivered almonds, salty tapenade and sweet dates is a win for team veg ($18).

Terrific gnocchi is an early crowd favourite, the dream-soft, pan-tanned pillows bolstered with juicy oyster mushrooms, peas and smoked hock, a blizzard of truffled pecorino covering the lot ($29).

It’s exciting to see such interesting, veg-focused fare that’s at once elegant and hearty.

The Bridge Hotel bar. Picture: Rob Leeson.

DRINK

There’s cider from Harcourt just down the road fresh from the keg that joins a half dozen taps pouring Furphy and other brews, while the tight wine list suitably celebrates the local region at a keen sub $10-a-glass.

SERVICE

Friendly and welcoming, order and pay at the bar and grab some cutlery as you go. While the kitchen can get slammed at peak hour, the food is worth the wait.

X FACTOR

The beer garden is great for kids and their carers alike — a sandpit and grassy areas for the former, a bar and umbrella-shaded tables for the latter. The dining room transforms into a band room for gigs, while warmer months see strummers take to the beer garden stage.