New life for bayside beauty, the Portsea Hotel
A fab new look and fresh take on classic meals reaffirms the Portsea Hotel as the peninsula’s favourite pub, writes Dan Stock.
Weekend
Don't miss out on the headlines from Weekend. Followed categories will be added to My News.
Ir’s amazing it took this long, really. It’s not like folks around these parts aren’t used to spending serious coin on their digs. Nor having work done.
But it was only last year that the grand dame of the Mornington Peninsula came in for a “freshen up”.
HIDDEN BARS IN MELBOURNE AND SUBURBS
Seven months and many zeros later, the historic Tudor-clad Portsea Hotel was unveiled just in time for summer.
That renovation has breathed new life into the sprawling space where much of Melbourne has spent summers sipping and supping since 1876.
The waterfront views, of course, remain as breathtaking as ever, and the expansive deck area, teeming with blue-and-white umbrellas, is the place to drink them in.
Along with the large dining room with sweeping bay views, front bar with extensive seating and accommodation ranging from standard pub rooms to a two-bedroom suite, additions include the Bertrand Bar (named after sailing legend John Bertrand), Cliff’s Bar (a burger bar) and the RIP whisky and cocktail bar.
FOOD
Paul Tyas — most recently of St Kilda’s Grosvenor Hotel — is in the kitchen and turning out a big menu of easy pleasing hits — pizza, fish and chips, burger and parma — that are joined by a selection of a salads and beer-friendly snacks that include terrific spicy fried chicken ribs with punchy chipotle mayo ($18).
They’re the pick over the fine-if-forgettable fried calamari strips ($16), while whipped white tarama topped with a few pearls of salmon roe is a sea-salty creamy hit that comes with warm pita on dunking duties ($15).
I applaud the inspired addition of pickled onions — as well as punchy tartare — and although the fish was slightly overcooked, its batter was light and crisp and two fillets to a serve makes a $28 plate seem OK value. Pity the chips are blah.
However, the pizzas are good with nicely charred, chewy bases, and the calabrese tried was full of chilli-heat and salami heft ($22).
Bigger plates include an enjoyable linguine tossed through a generous amount of crabmeat with roasted cherry tomatoes, chilli and finely sliced fennel ($31).
From the grill, a large Greenvale pork chop ($34) is deftly cooked, its sweet apple puree and fennel slaw with fresh peas making for a classy classic.
DRINK
The wine list leans local, while nearby breweries Jetty Road and St Andrews are in the fridge. On tap are a range of Mountain Goat and the hotel owners’ own Colonial brews. A few spritz are there for sunny sips.
SERVICE
Line up at the counter (don’t forget your table number), place your order, grab your cutlery and, before you know it, food will arrive.
Tyas runs a tight ship and dishes fly out of the kitchen to feed a packed pub. Plentiful staff are on hand to clear the decks.
X FACTOR
With music often out on the deck in the afternoon — and DJs hitting the decks when it’s time to party — the Live at the Portsea has all sonic bases covered.
BANG FOR YOUR BUCK
Not bad, considering that view.
VERDICT
Its fab new look and fresh take on pub classics reaffirms the Portsea Hotel as the peninsula’s favourite pub.
PORTSEA HOTEL
3746 Point Nepean Rd, Portsea. Ph: 5984 2213
FOOD Modern pub
HOURS Daily from noon
CHEF Paul Tyas
BOOKINGS Yes (bistro)
TIME BETWEEN ORDERING AND EATING 13 minutes
PERFECT FOR Family feeds and sunny sips
DESTINATION DISH Greenvale pork chop
NOISE LEVEL Buzzing
ONLINE portseahotel.com.au
The Mexican bites you won’t want to share
The dishes at Windsor’s newest mod-Mex restaurant are designed for sharing, but diners may not necessarily want to share off the small bites menu, which includes heavenly croquettes and fabulous tacos. Here’s where you can dig in.
The Murrumbeena cafe that will remember your coffee order
If Cheers was the bar where everyone knows your name, Murrumbeena’s Citizen is the cafe where they know your coffee order. And they have some delicious new renditions on your brunch favourites too.