Steak frites is an iconic French delicacy – but does it live up to the hype?

Like croissants and champagne, the dish “steak frites” is revered by the French as an iconic national delicacy. But does it live up to the hype? We ventured to a famed restaurant to find out.

Like croissants and champagne, the dish “steak frites” is revered by the French as an iconic national delicacy.

But does it live up to the hype, or is it just the perfect fourth photo for a well-curated Instagram dump?

Translating literally to “steak (and) fries”, steak frites sounds like it belongs on the menu of an Australian pub rather than a bougie French restaurant.

Yet such is its popularity in Paris, it is the only thing served at the famed Le Relais de Venise L’Entrecote.

And they do a roaring trade. Every night, locals and tourists form a long queue out the front sometimes waiting well over an hour to tuck in.

So, is it worth it?

Le Relais de Venise L’Entrecote in Paris, with the line stretching around the side. Picture: Michael Klein

Our colleagues waved us off as we set out on a valiant mission, to devour the French delicacy and test whether the beloved dish is as good as they say.

We joined the line with empty stomachs at 7.45pm, an early seating here in Paris, and it was already curling down the street – but it did not deter these brave reviewers.

Waiting in the queue was Eric, a local who was taking his son out for dinner.

He’s had a few steak frites in his time, and he knows exactly what makes this one so good.

“It’s all in the sauce. That’s why people are queuing. Nobody knows the recipe, it’s a secret,” he said.

Every night, locals and tourists wait in line for a steak frites at Le Relais de Venise L’Entrecote. Picture: Michael Klein

Eric told us there was another Le Relais de L’Entrecote down at the Champs-Elysées, but it’s closed while the Games are on.

We thought maybe this was why we’d seen the line so long every night, but he assured us it was always this popular.

“This place is one of the most famous places,” Eric promised us, and who were we to question a Parisian? The longest he’s ever waited was well over an hour. Trust the process, he told us.

At the 30-minute wait mark, it had started to rain, and the Tillies were down 2-0. The vibes were a bit low, but we had a job to do. We pushed through.

The menu at Le Relais de Venise L’Entrecote. Picture: Michael Klein

We could see inside the restaurant and the promise of that secret sauce Eric had described had us salivating.

After more than an hour, we finally made it to the front of the line and we were ushered to our table.

The menu takes the stress out of ordering – all you have to do is tell the server how you like your meat cooked. On Eric’s recommendation, we ordered two glasses of red wine.

They start you off with bread, the tough stale kind, followed by a side salad of lettuce and crushed walnuts doused in vinaigrette. All pretty standard so far.

Steak frites is served up at Le Relais de Venise L’Entrecote. Picture: Michael Klein

Then came the moment of truth. We were presented with five slices of meat covered in a grey-green sauce, with the rest of the plate piled with fries. We got stuck in.

The verdict? The meat was tender, the chips were hot (ish) and the secret sauce was buttery and flavoursome.

Was it worth the wait? No. Was it the best thing we’ve ever eaten? No. We wouldn’t even say it’s the best meal we’ve had in Paris so far.

A steak frites at Le Relais de l’Entrecôte will set you back 30 Euro –$50AUD – with sides included.

After a lengthy wait, we got stuck in. Picture: Michael Klein

The food?

Kathryn – Just a fancier (pricier) version of the pub classic we know and love. The meat was OK, but it’s the secret sauce doing the heavy lifting with this dish. The chips needed to be crispier and the chip-steak ratio was unfortunately off.

Tayla – I want to be clear, the food wasn’t bad at all, and the wine was great. The downside was the small portions of meat, the salad left no impressions and the bread was stale.

The vibe?

Kathryn – Once you’re done with the line, there’s a definite buzz about the place. Sitting on the sidewalk tucking into a steak frites and sipping a wine and felt very French.

Tayla – Ah the French, famous for their warm personalities … To be fair, we strolled in with a professional photographer who hadn’t planned to dine with us, they weren’t thrilled about that. If you’re not a foodie and you’re going purely for the atmosphere, it was a cool experience.

Final rating?

Kathryn – 5/10. A unique French dining experience but, in a city with endless options, it’s not worth the wait. Spend the hour at a wine bar and find somewhere without a line for your steak frites.

Tayla – 6/10. If I’d strolled past on a whim I wouldn’t have been disappointed. Overpriced, overrated – there are better less expensive options in the city.

Originally published as Steak frites is an iconic French delicacy – but does it live up to the hype?