Adelaide and beyond: 2024’s top reviewed restaurant judged by SA Weekend’s Simon Wilkinson
From the Adelaide Hills to the coast and the city to the Riverland, the state’s best dining spots have been crowned. See our reviewer’s top picks.
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After a year that saw many beloved restaurants and eateries close down across South Australia, it is important to celebrate and patronise those who continue on.
From Riverland hotspots to inner city favourites, SA Weekend’s food reviewer, Simon Wilkinson had the pleasure of eating at many fine establishments throughout 2024.
To mark a new year of culinary adventures, we have collated the list of Simon’s standout recommendation to show off the best of what our state’s hospitality scene has to offer.
These locations received an overall score of 15 or higher which equates to a ‘very good’ experience on Simon’s scale.
Ondeen - Verdun
Location: Verdun
Rating: 16.5/20
A newcomer to the South Australian foodie scene stood out above the rest in 2024.
Located on the old Maximilian’s site in Verdun, Ondeen opened in March with a menu brimming with South Australian produce and simply stunning flavours.
When our reviewer paid them a visit in May, he was wowed by the “contagious spirit of the place” and “honest” cooking.
“It will make you feel good about the world,” Simon wrote.
“Not flashy or over-complicated but my goodness it is something special.”
Co-founder and managing director Deborah Kingsbury’s vision for Ondeen was brought to life with the help of head chef, Kane Pollard.
The pair were overwhelmed when The Advertiser advised them that Simon’s review of their restaurant had snagged the top spot for 2024.
“Huge respect for Simon he’s been (reviewing) for years and he’s seen and eaten all over the place so it’s an absolute honour,” Mr Pollard said.
“It’s huge kudos to the team because it’s a young team but we’ve got a lot of passion and it’s a new venue which always has it’s challenges so to be able to get that sort of score and those beautiful comments so early in the piece was a huge honour.”
In the current hospitality climate, there is no denying that the Ondeen team’s new venture was a bold move, especially when filling the shoes of a South Australian icon.
“Maximilian’s held such a huge place in so many people’s hearts, so many people’s weddings, anniversaries … I brought my wife here when we were pregnant with our first daughter … it’s always been such a special space,” Mr Pollard said.
“It was definitely an honour to sort of come into the property with a fresh set of eyes in a way and to give it a fresh breath of air.
“Maximilian himself has come past quite a few times to say ‘hi’, especially during the early stages so we’ve obviously had his support and he’s really enjoyed seeing something new and innovative happening on the property.”
With Ms Kingsbury’s passion for “celebrating the 35th parallel South” and Mr Pollard’s interest in “closed-loop cooking”, Ondeen is already impressing visitors with plans to use the surrounding farm space on the horizon.
“There’s a lot of room for growth … we’re only really just scratching the surface of what we can do here,” Mr Pollard said.
“(We hope) to become a bit of a beacon for local producers to showcase not only the food producers through the menu and through our stories and making sure we do their produce justice but through the beverage producers as well.”
So what is Ondeen’s secret to success?
Mr Pollard was kind enough to give The Advertiser a hint.
“I feel like if people sit down in the chair and feel like their being treated the way they should be if they’re eating and drinking the things that they feel is right at the time then I think that you can hit the mark,” Mr Pollard said.
Restaurant Botanic - Adelaide
Location: Adelaide
Rating: 16.5/20
Sharing in the highest rating of the year was Restaurant Botanic located in the Adelaide Botanic Gardens.
Jamie Musgrave took over the reins from Justin James in April and has brought in a “more obvious” inclusion of bush foods to the menu.
The set menu which fetches a hefty price tag of $315 is paid for when making the reservation – “like a theatre ticket”, Simon wrote.
The feast is expansive with multiple courses.
The red kangaroo tart with a celeriac shell and topped with Oscietre caviar was a favourite alongside a mountain pepper spiced emu fillet.
“It is incredibly detailed, creative and has clearly taken a load of hard yakka,” Simon wrote.
While our reviewer acknowledged that this visit was not as good as others, he commended Musgrave on his “extraordinary” effort.
“A little less exuberance, a greater sense of balance, and things are only going to get better,” Simon wrote.
Temperance At Hotel Renmark
Location: Renmark
Rating: 16/20
Padded seats, scallop lights and walnut panelling bring a luxurious touch to the “screened off” section of Hotel Renmark known as Temperance.
Our reviewer dubbed this experience as a “River Revival” with the Nomad beef receiving a special shout-out.
“Temperance is reason enough to make the trip to Renmark before you do anything else in the area,” Simon wrote.
With two set tasting menus priced at $80 or $120, Simon found this location was not only providing delicious plates but also a “very good” value for money.
“From the first bite-sized snacks to the final petit fours, it unequivocally deserves a place among the state’s regional heavy hitters,” he wrote.
Thelma - Piccadilly
Location: Piccadilly
Rating: 16/20
A “kinda-cafe” in the morning and a “totally memorable” lunch spot left our reviewer wowed with their paired back and “soulful” plates.
Out of their tiny kitchen, the talented Thelma team impressed Simon with their local calamari served in a “more-interesting” version of a risotto with lentils, freekeh and charcuterie earning itself a spot on his must-try list.
“Make this plate a certainty to make a list of the year’s best moments,” Simon wrote.
While the food was the main star of the show, the “zen” atmosphere of this hidden hills spot added to the beauty of the dining experience with chef Tom Campbell’s methodical approach receiving an extra heaping of praise.
“You could skip everything else and head up to Thelma for coffee and cake alone … it would mean missing something pretty special but I’m sure the chef won’t be offended,” Simon wrote.
LVN Restaurant - Woodside
Location: Woodside
Rating: 15.5/20
While Simon described dining at Bird in Hand’s newest culinary offering as a “wild but uneven ride”, there was still enough to love about their $195 tasting menu to earn it a high rating.
Diners at LVN Restaurant can prepare themselves for an adventure like no other with each snack and plate carefully curated with fine attention to detail.
“It feels as if a reservoir of ideas built up over many years has flooded into this first menu,” Simon wrote.
While the blackened banana was not a hit with our reviewer, the aged nannygai with sunrise lime and lemon myrtle was a “straightforward” standout.
Rita’s Bar and Restaurant - North Adelaide
Location: North Adelaide
Rating: 15/20
Italian restaurants were a hit with our reviewer during 2024 and Rita’s Bar and Restaurant was another one of Simon’s highly rated spots.
With not a pizza in sight, he indulged in veal tongue pastrami and a crab pasta.
However, the real reason this eatery secured a high score of 15/20 was because of the service and staff.
“At a time when attracting, training and maintaining quality waiting staff is an issue across the industry, this unassuming suburban trattoria has, in a very short time, built a team that would be the envy of many better-resourced places,” Simon wrote.
Tunki - West Lakes
Location: West Lakes
Rating: 15/20
Simon suspects Tunki may be the only restaurant in Adelaide to specialise in the Nikkei cuisine and found many of their dishes to be a “triumph”.
A particular highlight of their $120 set menu was “a beautifully glazed, ocean-blue bowl loaded with top-shelf seafood in a raw version of a fisherman’s basket”.
The dessert of a fried empanada filled with banana and Nutella and served with a goat’s cheese caramel dip was dubbed a “moment of genius” by our reviewer.
“This is a dinner that surprises from beginning to end, put together by a team showing true commitment,” Simon wrote.
McLaren Vale Hotel
Location: McLaren Vale
Rating: 15/20
Come with a hungry belly and an appetite for revamped “Brit-pub classics” when visiting McLaren Vale Hotel.
The location, which takes “full advantage of the surrounding grounds of Hardy’s Tintara estate”, welcomed a new head chef, Paul Wilson who our reviewer and the late Anthony Bourdain agree is a “rock star in the world of restaurants”.
His caramelised onion tart and corned beef cheek with root vegetables were the highlights of Simon’s visit with the preserved lemon ketchup paired with upscale sausage rolls also receiving an honourable mention.
With a little bit of extra training for the “young and cheery” staff, Simon said this hidden gem “will be among the top few pub options in SA”.
Taprobane - Unley
Location: Unley
Rating: 15/20
“Pack those bags and get booking” was Simon’s advice to foodies looking to try quality Sri Lankan cuisine at Taprobane.
His recommendations were the “hoppers” and “black pork curry” that left him coming back for more.
Our reviewer also suggested starting off your Sri Lankan feast with a beer and the spiced cashews.
“Marvel at how quickly they disappear,” Simon wrote.
This dining experience is sure to lead you on an adventure with plenty of “zippy” and aromatic flavours delighting you at every corner.
Latteria - Hutt Street, Adelaide
Location: Hutt Street
Rating: 15/20
The pork cotoletta was a standout for Simon when he visited Latteria.
“It starts with a thick, full-flavoured pork scotch steak that is crumbed, fried until the coating is dark and crunchy, sprinkled with salt flakes and sliced to order.” Simon wrote.
The relaxed-style dining experience was another enjoyable element of Simon’s time at the eatery, with the carefree cocktail list featuring beverages such as the “Best Cosmo Ever” receiving a “bravo” from our reviewer.
From the owners of Osteria Oggi and Press, Simon labelled their newest culinary experience a “younger, more mischievous, party-minded descendant”.
Ode - North Adelaide
Location: North Adelaide
Rating: 15/20
Simon paid Ode a visit during its infancy, when chef and co-owner, Simon Ming had only been in business for five months.
Despite this our reviewer was left inspired by Ming’s combination of Mediterranean and Asian flavours with the kingfish collar with smoky romesco sauce and furikake being the dish of the evening.
“(The fish) looks tricky to negotiate but large lobes of delectable, buttery meat peel easily from bone and cartilage,” Simon wrote.
The “cupcake-sized” basque cheesecake was also described as a “most welcome” finish to the meal.
Umaii - Currie Street, Adelaide
Location: Currie Street
Rating: 15/20
There is no denying that it was a tough year for the hospitality industry and sadly, Umaii was one of the many restaurants that was forced to close its doors in 2024.
The location shut up shop only a matter of weeks after Simon paid a visit and provided a glowing report.
As an eel lover, our reviewer was delighted with the various options on offer and commended owner and chef, Chester Chan for his tenacious craft.
“ (Umaii has) two meanings, either skilful or delicious. Right on both counts,” Simon wrote.
After announcing their closure, venue manager, Aki Edmonds told The Advertiser the decision was a “reflection of the current hospitality climate”.
“This culinary exploration has been wild, fascinating but beautifully inspiring. Thank you for being a part of this journey we will never forget,” Mr Edmonds said.
Storehouse Flinders East - Flinders St, Adelaide
Location: Flinders Street
Rating: 15/20
Chef Brent Potuszynski was commended for his “must try” lamb belly when Simon paid his eatery a visit in February.
“It’s the next generation of roast dinner and, with belly yet to make the food world’s A-list, priced most reasonably,” Simon wrote.
A barramundi, banana blossom salad in a tom yum broth was also another winner.
With the 2025 Adelaide Fringe fast approaching, Simon said foodies would be “bonkers” to not add Storehouse Flinders East to their eating out list during this festive time of year.
Longplay Bistro - Pirie Street, Adelaide
Location: Pirie Street
Rating: 15/20
Simon described this Pirie Street hotspot as “one of kind”.
From the brains behind popular Adelaide bars, Clever Little Tailor and Pink Moon Saloon, Longplay Bistro is the first of their locations to partner food with drinks,
While the $8 rolls were “a stretch” for Simon, the ox tongue skewer with cherry and pickled mustard was dubbed “one of the year’s best”.
The dessert, a revamped version of the “daggy” White Russian cocktail, reimagined in ice cream form was another highlight of the dining experience.
“It’s a dessert sure to bring back memories and start a conversation. Just as the people behind this terrific addition to the city’s night-life intended,” Simon wrote.
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