Gold Coast lash experts say the industry is saturated by rogue trainers attracted by ‘easy side hustle’
The promise of earning big bucks has created an explosion of lash artists on the Gold Coast. But experienced operators say many only have a few hours training - leading to major problems for the industry.
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A PROMISE of earning big bucks after a few hours of training has created an explosion of lash artists on the Gold Coast, according to industry leaders.
A quick search of the internet reveals dozens of artists offering eyelash extensions for varying prices.
The saturated market has some experts concerned about the health of the client as they say applying lash extensions takes skill and experience by a certified technician.
Eyelash extensions are semipermanent lashes mostly made from the same material as toothbrush bristles and are applied with an adhesive.
When properly applied, lashes can last up to six weeks, and then clients are encouraged to return for a refill.
A qualified technician charges about $150 for a “classic” set of eyelashes and upwards of $200 for “Russian volume” extensions.
A 2019 report by ABC News in the United States revealed lushes lashes had become a “must-have” accessory.
It said the market for false eyelashes was booming and projected to reach more than $1.5 billion US by 2025.
Award-winning beautician Lauren Cobb said the combination of demand for lash extensions and Gold Coast trainers offering cheap, one-day courses to become a “certified” technician, was to blame for the oversupplied service.
The Lash and Brow Exclusive owner has been applying lash extensions for almost a decade and says the industry has become “extremely saturated” in the past three years.
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Ms Cobb says the internet was also to blame for the explosion of technicians because the trade was advertised as an “easy side-hustle”.
“There are at least 10 competitors within walking distance of my shop,” Ms Cobb says.
“When I started specialising in brows and lashes seven years ago, there were a few here and there who offered the service, but it had just started becoming popular.
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“People think, ‘Oh that looks easy’, but if they haven’t dedicated a career to it, and just use it as a side-hustle or hobby, it contributes to the industry getting a bad rapport.”
The award-winning lash artist says the reason her business has remained busy in a saturated market was due to her skill, experience and natural-looking extensions.
Ms Cobb explains the most sought-after extensions were the Russian Volume which required the artist to customise the lashes for each client.
She says the extensions were made from the same soft fibre as classic lashes but were much thinner, meaning the artist could apply more lashes to each natural lash, creating a “fan”.
“Some artists use a pre-made fan, which is a little cluster of hairs they can pick up and plonk it on, because it’s cheaper and faster, but nine times out of 10, they’re too heavy for the natural lashes.
“That’s when they can become painful and damage the hair follicle … in extreme cases it can cause alopecia of the eyelashes.”
ROGUE TRAINERS
Lash expert and trainer Corrin Pascoe, who owns Eyelash Extension Institute at Gaven, has been fighting to have the industry regulated for years.
Ms Pascoe is on the Australian Registered Lash Artists Association board and is part of Lash Vision Leaders, a team of 15 professionals in Australia and New Zealand lobbying for regulation in the industry.
She says the main focus of the group was to update the module of the beauty diploma which was teaching lash extension techniques that were outdated six years ago.
The multi award-winning lash master says there is enough demand for lash technicians but took aim at “rogue trainers”.
“The industry is unregulated so there’s nothing to stop someone teaching people how to lash,” Ms Pascoe says.
“We’re governed by our insurance company. They set the standard that we have to be trained by someone who has the proper certifications to do so.
“A lot of the dodgy trainers won’t have the insurance cover and as a consumer, if something was to happen, you don’t really have a lot recourse.
“If a technician pours glue in your eye and they’re not insured, what can you about it? Nothing really.”
The most common mistake Ms Pascoe sees on clients who have had lashes applied from an inexperienced technician are long, heavy lashes that compromised blood flow of the lid.
“They are far too heavy for natural lashes and can cause trauma to the hair follicle.
“By the time they (the client) get to me the lashes are twisting and hanging down.
“I haven’t seen too many infected eyeballs, but I have seen a really bad case when there was a hygiene issue but they were not told how to wash their lashes and keep them clean.”
One Gold Coast training facility promises prospective students an earning capacity of between $1500 and $2000 a week after costs, overheads and tax.
When asked whether that figure is realistic, Ms Pascoe says it is achievable but it could be “backbreaking work”.
“If you lashed for eight hours a day, five to six days a week, you could easily earn between $1500 and $2000 a week after expenses.
“I was before I started training, but it can be break-backing work, I can’t lash like that anymore.”Another Coast Training College offers a lash extension course that takes 18 hours to complete.
The website says the service is in high demand and the training offered is nationally recognised.
All students needed for the course was the ability to read and write to a Year 10 level.
COMPLICATIONS
Ophthalmologist Dr Jane Khan says one of the biggest issues caused by lash extensions was inflammation of the eyelid, a condition called blepharitis.
Dr Khan is a clinical senior lecturer at the Centre for Ophthalmology and Visual Science at the University of Western Australia.
She explained women over 40 were particularly susceptible to blepharitis because their skin lost its elasticity.
Dr Khan says to prevent the condition it is vital the lashes are cleaned thoroughly every day to prevent a build up debris and skin bugs.
“The downside (to lash extensions) is they create a worse environment for bugs to proliferate. They love that there’s something else to hang on to,” Dr Khan says.
“If there is a build-up it can cause inflammation, dryness of the eyes, clogging of glands … there can be longer term side effects such as corneal scarring and things like that.”
Dr Khan recommends those with extensions to clean their lashes daily with warm water with a pinch of bicarbonate soda or salt, but stressed the importance of “firmly” cleaning the lid with a cleansing pad.
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