Food review: Gold Coast pub raises the steaks for foodies

A Gold Coast Highway laundromat has been transformed into a sophisticated pub that raises the steaks for foodies.

Rabbit terrine, pickles and toast. The Glenelg Public House has just opened at Mermaid Beach, for Taste. Pic Tim Marsden

THEY’RE calling it the Gold Coast’s first gastropub.

Opened just a couple of weeks ago, The Glenelg Public House aims to recapture the spirit of pub dining before pinging pokies got in the way, and it’s not just on the food front that it stands out.

If you were familiar with the laundromat that used to occupy the street-corner site, the sophisticated, masculine fitout will surprise you as much as it did me.

Heavy sleepers are latched to the high exposed rafters, looped with hanging pendant lights that illuminate a moody palate of charcoal, concrete and timber.

One wall houses a mural of a muscular minotaur, its cocked head surveying sumptuous leather chesterfield lounges and spanking-new bar.

Every detail here, from the unique glassware to the initialled fabric napkins, is well considered.

The next surprise is the service. I can’t resist asking about the “chicken elbow” listed as an entree, and our waitress must have been looking over the chef’s shoulder. She really knows her stuff.

For the record, it’s a deboned section of the wing, and joins the likes of cured snapped, lamb breast with carrots and yoghurt, and rabbit terrine with pickles and toast on the suggestions for starters (from $12).

The main’s menu — like many a male mind when it comes to mealtime — is neatly divided into “Steak” and “Not Steak”.

And those things that are not steak amount to a grand total of one.

And what a one it is — pillowy parcels of gnocchi with pumpkin, watercress, truffled pecorino and sunflower kernels for crunch ($25).

More importantly, the meat, and less common cuts like the 180g Rangers Valley chuck tail ($25), 180g Cape Grim oyster blade ($22) or 300g Black Onyx petite tender ($28).

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Serious steak fans should give the Black Onyx a go. It’s a kingly piece of meat and cooked exactingly to request, despite the difficulty of its dimensions.

It’s served simply with just a slice of lemon so you can build a plate to preference.

Choose from sauces of three pepper, mixed mushroom, herb or smoky tomato (from $3) and sides (from $7) including charred zucchini with lemon and olive oil, shoestring fries with a dusting of parmesan, and creamed and buttered potato puree.

The portions are pretty hefty, and you could easily get by sharing the extras between two.

But what good is a pub with no beer? No fear here, there’s a good selection of craft brews. The standout is 4 Pines on tap.

THE GLENELG PUBLIC HOUSE

2460 Gold Coast Highway, Mermaid Beach

Book it: 5575 2284