REVIEW: Goccia Italian eatery at Mermaid Beach

LOVE cheese? This old school Italian eatery that’s just opened on the Gold Coast is what cheese-lover’s dreams are made of. Our expert food reviewer tested it out.

Polenta chips with blue-cheese dipping sauce at Goccia Mermaid Beach

IN Italian culture, food and family go together like olive oil and crusty bread; pasta and parmesan … me and mozzarella.

So it’s no surprise that it’s an easy, all-embracing warmth that defines the dining experience at Goccia, a little Italian pizzeria at Mermaid Beach.

You don’t need the accent to be welcomed at Anna Gazzola and Loris Perobello’s place, although it was common enough among guests on the night I dined.

With everything on the menu homemade from scratch, it’s one of the Gold Coast’s more authentic Italian offerings.

Anna Gazzola with a Rita pizza; tomato base, mozzarella and basil. Photo by Richard Gosling

Confined inside on a chilly rainy night, we’re only too happy to cuddle up alongside the Marana Forni pizza oven (imported from Loris’ home town of Verona) that dominates the kitchen.

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With the contented hum of conversation and rug-rats roaming while parents sip fluoro flutes of Aperol spritz, it feels cosy rather than cramped; one happy, vibrant family table.

In better weather, two sides of the corner shop are opened to the air with extra settings under string lights — a good bet for those seeking a romantic table for two.

Carpaccio Di Polpo; octopus carpaccio served with parsley and lemon pearls. Photo by Richard Gosling

To match the mood, the menu is loaded with pure culinary comfort. There are familiar flavours, but also some more adventurous dishes.

Artfully presented and unexpectedly tender octopus carpaccio ($19) — simply dressed in parsley and lemon — is one of these.

It was the blue-cheese dipping sauce that drew me to a side of polenta chips, but I was won over by the texture. Achieving that light, creamy centre and evenly golden, crispy shell is no mean feat.

Calamari Fritti; deep fried calamari served with limoncello mayo. Photo by Richard Gosling

Goccia seems to share my aforementioned affection for cheese, which dominates the starter selection and suitably saturates the sprawling list of pizzas.

Savour a silky smoked burrata with grilled zucchini, eggplant and capsicum ($16) or cool and creamy buffalo mozzarella with a sunset spectrum of heirloom tomatoes in a classic Caprese ($16).

Share plates for two ($24) or four ($45) are loaded with Italian cheeses, meats and olives.

As for the pizzas, I tried the Bosco ($24), showing off a beautifully thin base, melty mozzarella, blue cheese, mushrooms and the salty pop of prosciutto.

Parsuto pizza; tomato base, mozzarella, mascarpone cheese and prosciutto. Photo by Richard Gosling

If you normally gravitate to meat lover’s, go for the giosa ($23) which features a traditional bresaola (an air-dried, salted beef).

There are also three pastas on the menu: a beef bolognese ragout ($18), maccheroni al pomodoro ($16) and a weekly special (spinach and potato gnocchi with prawns and cherry tomatoes, for me).

The Sanbitter cocktail. Photo by Richard Gosling

There’s not much chance of leaving hungry … or without an invitation to come back soon.

WHERE:

Goccia Italian Pizzeria

2375 Gold Coast Hwy, Mermaid Beach

Book it: 5572 3008