Review: Sparrow Eating House’s amazing new winter menu

GOOEY baked brie, sticky pork and Cocopop pannacotta — is this the Gold Coast’s best winter menu?

Sparrow at Nobby Beach has a new winter menu, a variety of food and new fitout. Picture Glenn Hampson

WINTER is heaven for foodies. It’s for heartier helpings, belly-warming braises, simmering stews, rich red wines and even richer rewards at dessert.

While new menus are spawning across the Coast, you can set your calendar by the seasonal shift at Sparrow Eating House.

Along with owner Andrew Whiting’s other eatey, Broadbeach’s Elk Espresso, it has to be one of the most anticipated releases.

Sparrow at Nobby Beach has a new winter menu, a variety of food and new fit-out. Picture Glenn Hampson

If you’re planning a dinner to check it out, the best tip I can give you is to invite as many people as you know.

You will want to order every single one of the share plates and, while Sparrow’s sweet fit-out and copious cocktails do fit the brief for a first date, attempting to tackle this menu as a twosome is problematic.

Especially if you start with the whole baked brie ($20) … and you should.

From Woombye Cheese Company in the Sunshine Coast hinterland (sidenote: snap up their Truffle Triple Cream Brie if you ever get the chance), the creamy-centred classic is dribbled in honey and served with a sweet side of fig jam and warm wedges of ciabatta to mop up the gooey masterpiece.

GET A NEW TABLET WHEN YOU SUBSCRIBE TO THE GOLD COAST BULLETIN

Sparrow at Nobby Beach has a new winter menu, a variety of food and new fit-out. The tender braised beef cheek on an earthy parsnip puree is a popular pick Picture Glenn Hampson

At risk of peaking early, the wait staff help refine our order — there’s evidently a clear flow of information from the kitchen and they’ve got a knack for managing unrealistic expectations.

I refuse to negotiate on the cold rare beef with whipped horseradish truffle butter and a corn bread roll ($18) — not a new dish, but there’s a reason it’s stuck around.

Two tempura zucchini flowers ($15) stuffed with truffled ricotta and pumpkin are among the more delicately portioned highlights. Our waiter busted me licking the last drops of spiced honey from my fingers. No regrets.

Sparrow at Nobby Beach has a new winter menu, a variety of food and new fit-out. Picture Glenn Hampson

Pan-fried gnocchi with wild mushrooms, hazelnuts and muscat ($25) also has the vegetarians covered, but this one’s on the heavier side.

Some seasonal accessories see seafood through the seasonal transition — beetroot-cured salmon is studded with fennel and preserved lemon ($14) while four seared scallops ($18) sport an umami-style balance of miso cauliflower puree and crispy nori.

The comfort factor steps up a notch with venison meatballs ($15), achingly tender braised beef cheek on an earthy parsnip puree ($22), glazed duck leg ($22) and sticky soy pork shoulder with crackling crumb, chilli and coriander ($22).

Sparrow at Nobby Beach has a new winter menu, a variety of food and new fit-out. Picture Glenn Hampson

Those visiting Sparrow for the first time shouldn’t pass up the signature banoffee jaffle ($14) for dessert. Its toasty pastry layers are designed to soak up a generous allocation of hot salted caramel sauce.

If it’s not your first rodeo, branch out to newbies such as the Oreo creme brulee ($14), peanut butter martini, or wobble-worthy Cocopop pannacotta ($14). With Milo mousse, milk crumb and malt ice cream, the latter is a playful tastebud throwback in all the best ways (I know I’m not the only one who scoffed spoonfuls of Milo straight from the tin).

GOLD COAST FOOD: 5 COCKTAILS YOU MUST TRY

Sparrow at Nobby Beach has a new winter menu, a variety of food and new fit-out. Picture Glenn Hampson

To leave the guesswork in expert hands, the Sparrow feast curates nine courses for $49 per person and is excellent value.

I’ve focused on the food in this review, but the same creative employment of on-trend elements is at work in Sparrow’s reinvigorated cocktail list.

Sangria jugs spiked with spiced rum … just one last reason not to go into hibernation this winter.

Sparrow at Nobby Beach has a new winter menu, a variety of food and new fit-out. Picture Glenn Hampson

Sparrow Eating House

2/32 Lavarack Rd, Nobby Beach

Book it: sparroweatinghouse.com.au or call 5575 3330

Open: Dinner Tuesday to Sunday