The retro eatery trend taking over the eastern suburbs this summer
Perhaps it’s all that global uncertainty. Or maybe simply the passing of another year. Whatever has prompted the nostalgia trend, we are seeing a raft of retro eateries and flashback menus as we drift into 2019.
Perhaps it’s all that global uncertainty. Or maybe simply the passing of another year. Whatever has prompted the nostalgia trend, we are seeing a raft of retro eateries and flashback menus as we drift into 2019.
Among the nostalgic flavours is the (disturbing? exciting? we’re not sure, but we’re going with it) re-emergence of blue curacao liqueur in some eye catching cocktails. Other summer standouts include matcha vs. gelato, pink champagne, Italian everywhere and a menu mainstay from our favourite neighbourhood classic, which we’ve crowned the taste of summer.
Follow our guide to the best eats of the season.
Step back in time
Dulcie’s of Kings Cross which has just swung open its doors takes its name from bon vivant Mary Elizabeth Kathleen Dulcie Deamer, a novelist, poet and thespian who lived in the area.
“We spent a lot of time researching the area and … the Cross was actually a bustling village of butchers, bakers and artisans. It gets a bad rap as Kate and Tilly’s mean streets, but in fact it was more socialites and artists living simultaneously, creating a haven for bohemians,” says Dulcie’s director, Brandon Martignago.
In a sign of the precinct’s ongoing evolution, the venue takes over from a Darlinghurst Rd strip club. A playful menu revolving around boutique Australian spirits includes a South Australiano, an Aussie take on the Americano, made from sweet vermouth by Adelaide Hills Distillery, Imperial Measure’s Ruby Bitters and a dash of Bickford and Sons soda water, with all ingredients sourced from the southern state. For a different kind of cuppa, there’s The Lady Marvis’ Tea, brewed with Not Your Nanna’s Brandy by 23rd Street Distillery, macadamia nut liqueur, fig jam and ginger syrup, served in a fine bone china tea cup.
A series of spot performers including burlesque dancers, tarot readers, life drawers and spoken word poets are scheduled to take over the ex-pole dancing stage.
After Neil Perry’s Bluewater Grill flashback pop up last year brought back the Blue Hawaiin, it’s all about Blue Curacao at the moment. At 80s dive bar Chachi’s, a lurid cerulean cocktail evokes a more recent era and will take you back to places you’ve tried long and hard to forget. Called the Socom Sour, it’s made from Southern Comfort, Blue Curacao (obvs), lime, sugar and egg whites, shaken, strained, and served in a hurricane glass with pool party garnishes. The menu includes other nostalgic bites, from spaghetti jaffles to cheesy fries and fresh fruit daiquiris.
Test out your old school moves on the retro arcade games, or gather your friends for a classic board game or Lego building session. Everything old is new again.
Chachi’s, 218 William Street, Woolloomooloo.
Dulcie’s Kings Cross, 44B Darlinghurst Road, Kings Cross.
La vie en rose
Summer means bubbles. And even better: pink champagne. Surrounded by lush greenery and rose pink accents, upscale restaurant and day spa, The Botanica is the perfect long lunch setting, sunlight pouring into the dining room. Clear your diary and settle in for the four course tasting menu, which includes Sydney rock oysters in champagne vinegar, octopus ceviche and coconut Pavlova, along with two hours of bottomless — you read that right — Chandon Rosé Imperial Champagne all for $168.
Over in Double Bay something similar is happening at Saké Restaurant & Bar Double Bay.
Every Saturday & Sunday from 12pm, enjoy a selection of Saké dishes and two-hours of Ruinart Rosé Champagne for $199pp
The Botanica, 2 Laguna Street, Vaucluse.
Down Bondi way
It’s the scorching centre of the eastern suburbs universe in summer and there’s as much going on as ever in the salty-aired beachside enclave this month.
At sea-level, Maybe Franks brings its famous woodfired pizzas to level one of the Beach Road Hotel. From Wednesday to Sunday, the pop-up serves seven of Maybe Frank’s most popular pizzas, chased by negroni and Aperol spritz.
Up on Bondi Rd, hospitality royalty Mike Eggert from Pinbone and Khan Danis from Rockpool have taken the helm at Totti’s at The Royal. The new casual Italian eatery is winning love from loyal patrons of the erstwhile seedy Royal as well as restaurant-saturated local foodies, dishing up hearty bowls of handmade pastas and woodfired meats, cooked in a Josper oven in atrium-style courtyard, shaded by established olive trees.
The good folk at Porch and Parlour have reopened just in time for the high season after their beloved cafe on the corner of Hastings Pde was devastated by a kitchen fire. The perennial brunch favourite is now the hot spot for a sundowner Friday to Sunday with offers on Regal Rogue spritzes, lemon myrtle-infused gin and tonics, and mescal margaritas
FAMILY TIP: Planning a day down the beach with the kids during school holidays? Bondi Beach Public Bar on the newly invigorated Campbell Pde is doing $10 kids meals weekdays from 12pm-4pm throughout the summer.
Totti’s at The Royal, 283 Bondi Road, Bondi.
Maybe Franks, Level one, Beach Road Hotel, Bondi.
Bondi Beach Public Bar, 203/180 Campbell Parade, Bondi Beach.
High places
Not fond of sand? Can’t stand the crowds at the beach? Channel a Soho House vibe and take to the rooftop. They don’t get much prettier than this parasol-lined sky bar, on the top level of the newly renovated Hyde Park House. At Slims Rooftop, the breezy outdoor courtyard is home to some magnificent views of the city skyline and a Palm Springs-inspired cactus garden with chic white wire seating. Heading up the kitchen is ex-Sake chef Taichi Ito who dishing out modern Japanese fare, from glistening sashimi platters to smoky teppan-grilled meats.
Hyde Park House, 47-49 William Street, Darlinghurst.
We all scream for ice cream
Gelato, step aside. Matcha madness is upon us and none are quite as dreamy as Cho Cho San’s matcha soft serve. Perfectly balancing sweet and savoury notes, this green tea whip makes for a refreshing summertime treat.
Cho Cho San, 73 Macleay Street, Potts Point.
Raw talent
It may not come with the fame of, say, their truffle egg pasta, but Buon Ricordo’s crudo alla negroni could just be the most summery dish ever devised.
Boasting bright, citrusy flavours, the menu mainstay is made from delicate slices of Hiramasa kingfish dressed in gin and vermouth and sprinkled with candied orange peel and sparkling Campari crystals. The refreshing starter, a measure of restraint before consuming a small mountain of the richest, creamiest pasta in the east, deserves its place in the sun.
Buon Ricordo, 108 Boundary Road, Paddington.
Aperitivo time
You won’t find a better summer sipper than the L’Aperitivo Spritz at new Italian eatery, Caffe Bartolo. In place of Aperol, bartender Grazia Di Franco uses a dash of Aperitivo Rinomato, a bitter Italian liqueur made from orange peel, vanilla, rhubarb and spice. It’s topped with white wine, soda and rose petals, best enjoyed with a side of San Daniele prosciutto and shaved, compressed melon. While in boot-shaped territory, the highly anticipated Alberto Lounge has opened in Surry Hills doing for the neighbourhood Italian what Hubert did for the French bistro.
Caffe Bartolo, 359 Crown Street, Surry Hills.
Alberto Lounge, 17—19 Alberta Street, Surry Hills.
Desert days
Taking up residence in the old Pink Salt digs, Bedoin has transformed the space with a beautiful fit-out on the Lebanese cuisine theme.
Overseen by Fei Jai’s Peter Lew, street staples kafta and lamb shish co-exist with modern mains like Barramundi fillet with spicy tahini, coriander, pine nuts and walnuts.
There’s a vegetarian banquet, too.
Bedoin, 53 Cross St Double Bay.
Bills next door
Bills in Surry Hills has not only moved next door but bolstered its menu beyond the signature scrambled eggs and ricotta hotcakes. A Japanese brunch bowl, dill and green pea falafels and a crispy salmon belly with green mango salad are among the additions. The striking art moderne fit-out by Jules Meacham is a tapestry of rich, warm colours.
Bills Surry Hills, 355 Crown Street, Surry Hills.
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