El-Phoenician Parramatta closes to make way, possibly for Criniti’s Italian restaurant

One of Parramatta’s most upscale restaurants that has graced its main dining strip for more than two decades is closing — possibly to make way for an Italian chain that has been resurrected.

It’s the end of an era at Church St Parramatta with fine dining Lebanese restaurant El-Phoenician to shut and make way for another venue — possibly Criniti’s Italian — which will make its comeback after being saved from liquidation almost two years ago.

On Tuesday, El-Phoenician founder John El-Bayeh, who introduced alfresco dining to Parramatta, announced that after 24 years of feasts and fanfare, it would “hoist anchor and set sail for new adventures”.

The restaurant, which has been shut since June’s Delta lockdown, cited the challenges of the pandemic and the light rail construction for the decision.

“The past two years have been a challenge to all of us, and while we knew you’d welcome us back with open arms (and empty stomachs!), hospitality has borne the brunt of a difficult transition, a new way of operating, leaving many owners, operators and staff vulnerable,’’ Mr El-Bayeh said in a statement.

Parramatta’s loss of carparks and parking spaces, and the light rail project on its doorstep, also contributed to the decision to pack away the plates, with the restaurant hosting events from corporate lunches to christenings.

“The customers aren’t going to catch the light rail to come to functions in their stilettos,’’ Mr El-Bayeh said.

The prolific El-Bayeh family, which has operated 37 restaurants and eateries over the past 30 years, and had humble beginnings running a kebab shop at Westfield Parramatta in the 1980s, does not plan to depart Parramatta completely.

“We’ll also be looking forward to finding another space around Parramatta to fill with the warmth of our hospitality down the track,’’ Mr El-Bayeh said.

They leave with fond memories.

“We are left with the memory of laughter bouncing off the walls, the clanging of plates, the mystical sound of drums heard from Church St and beyond when you celebrated with us,’’ Mr El-Bayeh said.

“We rejoiced every time we were a part of your important milestones. From weddings, christenings, birthdays to long, languid lunches and intimate moments shared with friends and family.

“Some of you took your first steps in our venue only to return with your children. You were brought together with a love for food and the culture of sharing a meal.

“Most of all, we took pride every time we saw you pat your belly and tell us, ‘I couldn’t fit another bite in’. That was always the El-Phoenician way.’’

The family is continuing to run its Walsh Bay venue Jounieh by El-Phoenician.

It is understood there are three contenders looking to move into the El-Phoenician space — including Criniti’s — which shut in Church St in 2020 after the company went into administration in November 2019.

In April 2020, administrators Worrells Solvency and Forensic Accountants revealed the national Covid shutdown stopped a last-ditch sale agreement to keep Criniti’s open, with the chain having debts of more than $16.5 million.

El-Phoenician has a fan in comedian Rob Shehadie. Picture: Jonathan Ng

However, luck turned its way and a last-minute sale of the business’ assets to Brunelli Group saved six of its 13 restaurants — including Castle Hill, Darling Harbour and Kotara in Newcastle.

Brunelli was contacted for comment.

El-Phoenician said confidentiality on the lease agreements forbade it from disclosing the occupants but a source said “word on the street” was that it was Criniti’s.

Last January, El-Phoenician revealed its plans to expand with a $17 million 32-storey, 104-room boutique Phoenix Hotel and restaurant tower in a bid to stave off Parramatta Council replacing it with a public laneway.

Under his plan, the 110m hotel tower would include four levels dedicated to the El-Phoenician’s restaurant, bar and function rooms and the remaining 28 floors for hotel rooms.

When asked if the project was still in the pipeline, Mr El-Bayeh declined to comment.

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