Review: The Pantry in Manly on Sydney’s northern beaches
Sit back, enjoy breakfast and the view. And The Pantry, overlooking Manly Beach, a great place to do it.
Manly
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Manly’s breakfast club is a definitive blend of ridiculously trendy breakfast bowls and old faves. But there is one dish that reigns supreme.
Smashed avo rules wherever you go. Every place has its own take on this breakfast favourite.
Berkelo in Brookvale serves it with fermented veg and home-baked artisan sourdough. New Manly restaurant Arthur’s Oysters & Seafood has skipped breakfast altogether and is turning it into avo ice cream on smashed toast crumbs.
Head to The Pantry, and there it is too, gracing the beachfront venue’s breakfast menu. The Pantry’s presentation is more conventional. Here it’s dressed up with ricotta and served on toast with tomato and chilli jam. Poached eggs are extra.
The Pantry is a finalist in the breakfast category at the upcoming metro Restaurant and Catering awards, but if you stop by for breakfast, it’s the view, not lengthy chats about smashed avocados, that will dominate the conversation.
The Pantry overlooks Manly beach, and on a bright, sunny weekend morning when those picture windows are open, it’s pretty glorious.
Inside, the former early 20th century tearooms have been refurbished as beachy-rustic, a sort of Hamptons meets French provincial. Since Sean Blasdall took over in September, the place has had a mini makeover.
Paint is new, and so are the pendant lights. A green wall of hardy salt-tolerant plants at the entry is on the drawing board as a future landscaping project.
Breakfast fans can tuck into classics like eggs benedict, or bacon and egg options like the Pantry breakfast.
If you don’t want to be caught by the breakfast Nazis scoffing a sneaky plate of buttermilk pancakes with whipped vanilla butter and raspberry compote, there are healthier choices.
The fruit plate with granola and yoghurt should keeps things light, while white polenta porridge with candied walnuts, banana and red gum honey is an ideal winter warmer.
Turn breakfast into tapas, and The Pantry has two breakfast boards: one is vegetarian, the other meaty.
A century on, charcuterie, chargrilled capsicum and almond sauce with poached eggs has replaced tea and scones.
Essentials
The Pantry, 46 North Steyne, Manly
Open: Seven days, 7.30am – 10pm; closed Christmas Day
Bookings: 9977 0566
Coffee: Cabrito Coffee
Go for: Wild mushroom and gruyere tart with prosciutto, chargrilled asparagus, $19.90; breakfast board with cured meats, toast and poached eggs, $22
Bottom line: $50.40 for two
Or try: The Boathouse, Shelly Beach
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