Review: Charcoal smoothies and more at Newport cafe, Rukus, on Sydney’s northern beaches

Fancy something a little different for breakfast? Rukus is pushing the boundaries with its charred offerings.

Egg and bacon roll with a difference — Rukus’ lump of coal roll. Photos: Martin Lange.

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Black is the new breakfast. Activated charcoal is popping up at trendy cafes.

Head to Newport and three beaches boys — Shaun Pereirz, Matt Whiteley and Tom Morrison — are doing it three ways.

TV chef Ed Halmagyi says it is a gimmick without therapeutic benefits but the boys reckon it’s not doing their business any harm.

Green smoothie breakfast bowl is on Rukus’ menu.

Cafes need something to set them apart, says Shaun Pereirz. I’m with you on that one, Shaun.

It is amazing what a quarter of a teaspoon of carbonised coconut husk can do. It turns their mixed berry smoothie pitch-black and darkens bowls of frozen berries and granola.

But what does activated charcoal taste like? It’s all show. The lump of coal roll does have a wow factor. But charcoal bun doesn’t taste like a lump of coal, or even burnt, for that matter. Close your eyes and you wouldn’t be able to pick the secret ingredient in the bread.

The $10 bacon and egg roll isn’t all show, it messily delivers on taste, too, thanks to a punchy filling of green aioli, spinach, avo and house-made barbecue sauce.

The lump of coal roll — a breakfast bacon and egg roll with a difference.

What cafe doesn’t have a smoothie bowl? Rukus has two. One’s green and topped with banana, avo, spinach, granola and organic seasonal fruits. The other is made with granola, frozen mixed berries and spritzed with coconut charcoal.

Again, it doesn’t taste burnt. Actually, it doesn’t taste of much at all — frozen berries are always a disappointment, and it is a bit cold and soupy. But it is pretty and decorated with edible flowers from Rainbow Alley, which is just across the road.

Like Kim Kardashian, I prefer my carbon sparkly. Move away from activated charcoal and Rukus has a delicious mini breakfast bowl filled with a poached egg, peas, spinach, avo and homemade salsa verde. Alternatively, you can pad it out with an extra egg and a serve of toasted sourdough.

Barista Matt Whiteley is one of the face’s behind Unground, the locally-roasted coffee.

Mango smoothie is definitely one for summer. It is blended with chia, Careel Bay honey, coconut water and earthy turmeric and topped with lavender buds.

Rukus has its own coffee. Barista Matt Whiteley is involved with Unground, a Warriewood micro roaster, and makes a signature blend especially for the Newport cafe.

Sukur is Rukus backwards, but there’s nothing backwards about the flavour. These tasting notes say strawberries with earthy spiced cacao. If you like it, you can buy a 500g bag for $25 to savour the flavour long after you’ve departed the side streets of Newport.

Rukus is pushing cafe boundaries with its menu.

Essentials

Rukus

5c Robertson Rd, Newport

Phone: [phone]

Open: Seven days, from 6am-4pm

Go for: Lump of coal roll with bacon, egg and green aioli, $10; poached eggs with peas and salsa verde, $12; green or black smoothie bowls, $12

Coffee: Boutique blend from local micro roaster, Unground

Vibe: Black arts

Bottom line: $41.50