Arthur’s Oysters and Seafood opens in Manly on Sydney’s northern beaches
Scottish chef Jason Wright isn’t afraid to push boundaries as the food at his new Manly restaurant Arthur’s shows
Manly
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CHEF Jason Wright doesn’t do boring.
Manly’s new boy hasn’t missed a beat since opening his glass-fronted oyster bar and sustainable seafood restaurant four weeks ago.
With a nod to Australia’s first Governor and plenty of shipshape memorabilia (Arthur’s is named after Captain Phillip), the former Scottish Rising Star Chef of the Year is always looking for innovative ways to turn dishes into something that little bit different.
Take that old favourite, fish and chips. As a true Scot he knows that chips are a staple part of a diet, he says. Anyway, who can resist a good chip and pile on a few extra calories in the process? It takes a steely resolve to say no.
Wright goes to the next level, looking for the taste of real potato, Wright imports his spuds from the States.
Good chips need a good batter to go with the fish. Wright adds sparkling water to make it light and crispy and swaps beer for a slug of dark rum.
Three barramundi fillets, homemade herby dill tartare sauce, half a lemon and attractive copper serving ware and that’s it.
Simple, seasonal, sustainable and delicious.
Fish and chips is the only main course on Arthur’s small but evolving and changing menu. Wright releases the brakes for the remainder of his innovative and tasty sharing plates and wacky desserts.
He’s flicked breakfast too turning a cafe craze into a tongue-in cheek sweet. Smashed avo comes as ice cream on `toast crumbs’ with corn flake custard.
He’s even doing a version of the Scottish treat, deep-fired Mars bar. Arthur’s fried Mars bar is eclairs filled with Mars bar ganache and dusted with gold leaf.
Granny wouldn’t serve dainty crumpets with maple-cured Ora king salmon, radish and hazelnut bearnaise. Wright would.
They go very nicely thank you very much with two yellow fin Hiramasa kingfish tacos, which are cured for two days in lemon, lime and sugar.
Each decent-sized taco is filled with sliced kingfish and served with mango and lime yoghurt, chipotle salsa, coriander and crispy shallots. The teeny wooden peg is a nice touch and holds in the ingredients.
Wright also cures cold smoked trout for his twist on a New York deli special, the ruben.
Freeze-dried beetroot brings both earthiness and pinkness, while the accompanying ferments and house-cured pickles turn it into something that’s bang-on and trendy.
Dishes work surprisingly well with a glass of fruity rose from Hunter Valley winery Oakvale. This drop has a dry finish and cuts through the richness of the oily fish, the fruity yoghurt and the hazelnut bearnaise.
But it’s too bad if you don’t like Oakvale’s wines, there’s no other choice.
There’s no BYO at Arthur’s, well not at the moment, and something locals do like.
Wright likes Oakvale’s ethos. Five bucks from each bottle goes to Meals on Wheels, he says.
Essentials
Arthur’s Oysters and Seafood
46 Pittwater Rd, Manly
Open: Tuesday-Saturday 5pm-10pm
Bookings tables of six and over via the website
BYO: No
Go for: Ruben with smoked trout pastrami sesame churros, $16; Hiramasa ceviche tacos, $8 each; fish and chips, $27
Bottom line: $110 for two with drinks
Or try: Sunset Sabi, Manly
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