The Rocks Sydney bounces back after plagues, convicts and COVID

Having weathered some of history’s biggest curve balls including the bubonic plague, the pandemic is merely the latest chapter in the colourful history of this Sydney suburb.

It has weathered plagues, decades of convict crime and the Spanish flu.

So it should come as no surprise that The Rocks is bouncing back after a year in which pub doors slammed shut and workers were left fearful for their futures amid the coronavirus pandemic.

According to historians and long-term residents, the COVID-19 outbreak and the subsequent unprecedented drop in tourism is merely the latest chapter in The Rocks’ colourful history.

Sydney University historian Kirsten McKenzie said The Rocks has been regularly targeted by significant challenges, ranging from the 1900 Bubonic plague outbreak to the modern challenges of high-rise development.

“You could definitely have a narrative about how The Rocks has been under threat again and again, but so far has always bounced back,” Prof McKenzie told The Telegraph.

“It has a long history of both drinking and socialising, both nefarious and not nefarious, and that still remains to some extent today.”

Photographs taken when the bubonic plague hit The Rocks in Sydney in January 1900. Picture: NSW State Library

A little girl in Princes Street, looking south, at The Rocks, circa 1900. During the outbreak, areas of The Rocks were barricaded off and its slums demolished.

SHAMEFUL PAST

She said the area had grown from its “shameful convict past” into “a place of heritage” — something almost lost when the state government’s Sydney Cove Redevelopment Authority floated plans to bulldoze most of the area’s original buildings in favour of new developments in the 1970s. While that challenge was fended off in a combined effort by local residents and the Builder’s Labourers Foundation, which undertook a near half-decade green ban in the area, it was not the last challenge for The Rocks or its famous institutions.

Kazuko Nelson, owner of Hero Of Waterloo in the Rocks for 26 years. Picture: Tim Hunter.

Kazuko Nelson has run the famous Hero of Waterloo hotel for more than 25 years, taking sole responsibility for the 176-year-old pub in 2013 after the death of her husband and pub licensee Ivan.

After more than 30 years spent living in The Rocks, ­including more than two decades above the legendary pub, she says she is likely the longest lasting resident of the area since its row of housing commission homes were recently sold off and their long-term occupants moved out.

Hero of Waterloo (left) on Lower Fort Street The Rocks.

She described the period during the coronavirus peak as “really, really tough”.

“We were lucky to make $150 a day,” she said.

“It was shocking, watching this empty pub and going for a walk in The Rocks and there being nobody around.”

While the usual throng of tourists is yet to return, Ms Nelson is buoyed by a recovery driven by workers returning to the city — and the area’s natural beauty. “It has a very strong history, everywhere has a fascinating, beautiful old look,” she said.

Around the corner is the Lord Nelson hotel, which lays claim to the longest con­tinually licensed premises in Australia.

View from Sydney Observatory, 1882. The Lord Nelson Hotel is pictured centre right.

A HEAVY BLOW

Tourists and the area’s burgeoning relationship with cruise ships formed a key part of the pub’s clientele, owner of 37 years, Blair Hayden, told The Daily Telegraph.

And while the pub was dealt a heavy blow by those ­industries being “completely cut-off”, he said business had “very marginally” picked up with office workers “back on the street and working at the coal face of their offices”.

Hotel general manager Kristian Savio added the pub’s close relationship with the cruise ship industry, which has led to more than one million guests come through the Lord Nelson’s doors since it struck a partnership with Carnival Cruise Line five years ago, was a key driver of their business.

Owner of the Lord Nelson Pub Blair Hayden (centre) with staff (from left) Kristian Savio, Kaylee-Ane Kosoralo and Gema Alonoso. Picture: Sam Ruttyn

“When it comes to cruise lines, we have people staying at the hotel prior to their cruise and after because we are in such proximity to the Overseas Passenger ­Terminal, so it was a beautiful relationship,” Mr Savio said.

“We can’t wait to have that business kick off again not only for us but also to get the beer back on board and to be sailing again.

“Even if it isn’t inter­national guests and Australians only to begin with, it would be fantastic to get some ‘sea-change’ happening.”

Historical image of the The Lord Nelson Hotel.

Following one of the most challenging years in the pub’s history, Mr Hayden said he was confident it would be penned down as just another note in The Rocks’ rich history of setbacks.

“It’s been very difficult for everyone in hospitality,’’ he said. “We’ve been affected quite heavily.

“But this is another lesson in our history.

“We’re forever hopeful local residents will recognise what we’ve been through and support us as they always have going forward.”